I am starting a new project that I am actually getting some work done on, unlike my last few projects. The body is Brookville, American stampings rails, original 32 K member and model A rear x-member. My new garage floor is perfectly flat so with jack stands and lots of carful measuring I am having good luck getting the frame together. More soon...
Indeed a good start, i sold my 32 steel roadster 30 years ago and was going to do what you are doing last year,found my 26 RPU instead. Keep the progress reports coming Very cool. JW
Finding a nice area of your shop that is flat and level is a big help. Stringing a frame in an X-shape pattern and checking distances off the floor and a few other tricks can really help you make sure that everything is square. I have built race cars this way many times and just keep checking your measurements. A piece of string in the right hands and knowing how to use it correctly goes a long way. Keep posting pictures as the project continues for sure. Best of luck Jimbo
I going to flaunt my ignorance now but... Why would there be a need to pinch a 32 frame rails for a 32 body. I know why I did it for my A on 32 rails.
I am using the Wescott drawing as well as the following: Along with careful measuring I used this tool to be sure I matched the profile of the pinch side to side. Here is a quick pic to show the profile. I have the rear crossmember tacked in placing the axle centerline 1/2" back from stock. The front crossmember member is back 1" from stock and eventually the front axle will end up ~1" ahead of the stock position. I ended up making two cuts to do the pinch, the furthest forward cut was larger and the one closest to the cowl is only a blade width. I will box the entire front and the rear from in front of the axle to the rear crossmember. I haven't decided what to do forward of the rear axle to the K member.
^That is the look. I also really like the below Rolling Bones car, particularly the windshield and top. My car will not be a direct copy of any car, but will have elements of many different cars I have seen and ideas in my head. Ken from The Rolling Bones has been very kind to share a few tips on getting things in the right place on the frame.
Finished installing the rear crossmember. I still need to install the C notches for the rear axle. I decided to box from around the rear crossmember till just in front of the first body mount forward of the rear crossmember. I will also box from the front crossmember to the K-member legs.
It is quite expensive to build a steel '32 Highboy with bodies $20,000 a piece. When you get into paint and upholstery and chrome, the ticket can be quite high. But, well worth the money. I am a body man by trade. And you will find the steel bodies are beautiful. Unlike an original, you don't have to worry about rust. Only one feature that makes it really nice. " Real hot rods don't have fenders "
The new steel bodies are so nice. Unlike the new coupe bodies they are atleast half the price of an original, if you can find one. Then you have no rust no thin metal etc. I will be building it as traditional as possible, 39 trans, close drive, 1940 wheels. Not exactly sure what motor I am going to run, I have an 8ba and an olds 303. The olds is cool, but so heavy. I like lite cars.
More and more I'm leaning towards flatheads on this particular build. It really takes you back to the '40's and early '50's. I don't know, there's just something about them. They can sit in a car lower. I just like the look. I think it would go best with your running gear. But, either way would be nice. And you picked the right car to build. " Real hot rods don't have fenders "
Today I installed the C notches for the rear axle. I will add extra stock above this area back to the rear cross member + boxing. I then cut the rear floor to clear the model A rear crossmember. Then set the body on the frame to see how everything looks. At this point I need to get both springs, a 2" chopped radiator, grill shell and a hood before I can continue. I will probably have to do something to allow the 36 radius rods to clear the frame. I will cut the rear frame horns and mount then with the cross bar snug up against the body. I am going to take a break and pull the motor from my 58, put on new heads and install a fresh T10 trans.
HI Fortress C notches. I worry that you have weakened the structural integrity of the frame? What do you think? " Real hot rods don't have fenders "
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