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Residual Valves/Do I need them???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kensey, Aug 21, 2012.

  1. Kensey
    Joined: Sep 25, 2006
    Posts: 737

    Kensey
    Member
    from Pittsburgh

    Hi all,

    I have a 30 Model A, mostly all stock. I'm updating the brake system to mid 40's ford baking plates and a 70's ford dual master cylinder - non power. I'm using a replacement battery box (guy from the HAMB, stellar work!!!!) with a MS bracket. So the MS is under the floor board not really above the wheel cylinders.

    My question, do I need residual valves?
    How do I tell if my MS has built in residuals?

    Thanks for any advise!

    Kensey
     
  2. Yes, drum brakes need them no matter where the MC is located.

    Easy way to tell if your MC has them, LIGHTLY take a straightened out paper clip and put it in the flaired holes. If you feel rubber then you have them. If you feel metal, than you don't. If its a 70s MC, most likely it doesnt.
     
  3. Kensey
    Joined: Sep 25, 2006
    Posts: 737

    Kensey
    Member
    from Pittsburgh

    So my next question would be, what do I need? Specifically?

    Any suggestions??
     
  4. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member

    You are going to need two 10lb residual valves. One will go from your master to the valve to the rear drums. The other will go from the master to the residual to the from pair of drums.
     

  5. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used a m/c for a 1970 Ford Mustang and it had built in RV's.

    If you want RV's separate from the m/c, you can buy them at Jeg's or Summitt. Use a 2# one for disk brakes and a 10# one for drums. If you do use RV's, they are directional, so make sure you install them in the correct direction - there are arrows on the body.
     
  6. And thats all she wrote.
     
  7. There now I fixed it for you ;)
     
  8. The 70 was a 69 carry over. Reason I said "most likely" ,as cars started getting more and more disc fronts, the built in valves started to go away.
     
  9. Master of None
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,279

    Master of None
    Member



    Thanks! been a long day.:eek:
     
  10. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,503

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    I moderate the 1952-59 Ford Group several of our members have done a dual master upgrade with the OEM drum brakes the master cylinder I recommended was these: Bendix 11485 (Rock Auto $41.79 NEW) or Rebuilt (Autozone's Fenco M1485 @ $19.95 exchg) usually a Bendix core,these do not require a valve addition this is used in 1968-68 Mustangs with 4 wheel drums.
     

  11. We're good ;)
     
  12. Kensey
    Joined: Sep 25, 2006
    Posts: 737

    Kensey
    Member
    from Pittsburgh

    JEFF

    Question? The MC's your taking about, do they have internal RV's? Or do these applications just not need them?

    The MC I have is ford, 4 wheel drum.

    thanks.
     
  13. man-a-fre
    Joined: Apr 13, 2005
    Posts: 1,311

    man-a-fre
    Member

    I would strongly recommend getting your residuals from eci less built way superior to any others i have seen and no nylon.They are like $25.00 but well worth it.the 3/16 part # is ec655 on my recent reciept Ph.860 872-7046
     
  14. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,503

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Not needed with these applications,to be sure the one you have is correct look for a casting number and run it on a Google search,if you are not positively sure what you have I would buy one of the ones I suggested and be safe.
     
  15. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I agree drum-drum M/cyls have the residual valves built right in. The street rod industry started using Corvette 4W disc M/Cyls and had to add valves to make them work with drum brakes and all hell broke loose. Everybody has been confused ever since and misinformation gets repeated constantly.
     

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