1950 Mercury Steering Column Guidance for FNG

Long story short, I've got my 50 merc dash completely disassembled because one thing led to another. One of the things I would like to do is install a new steering column and steering wheel. I know what steering wheel I'd like to go with (con2r), but I need a little advice on what to shop for with regards to steering columns. What do I need to get to go from the steering box to the column? Attached are pictures of the column and how its currently connected to the steering box. As for the steering column it will be for an automatic on the column, I'd like to move the key back to the dash and either get chrome or black finish. Hopefully the pictures will speak for themselves.
Also included is a picture of the firewall where the transmission tunnel meets up. One of the PO's did not properly seal it up when they replaced the motor. Any advice here would be appreciated as well.

 

Here are the pictures.

 

in the one pic, where it shows the steeringbox, if you take that bolt out going through the shaft, once you pull the column up it will reveal the original 3/4" smooth shaft. you will need a 3/4" weld, coupler or U-joint depending on your clearances. as far as columns, there are quite a few out there depending on what you want, as far as a floor or coumn shift, or put the stock one back in with a tad bit of work.

 

Thanks. Pictures tend to help me because I'm still learning the names to parts. I've attached what typically looks like the end of the new aftermarket steering columns. I'm just not sure how you would connect the column end to the steering box smooth shaft. From your post, can I still install a new column without needing to weld? In what order would the components go? Steering Box, coupler, ...., ...., column?

 

Were it me doing the job I'd take the steering box out and convert what's left of the steering shaft to a double D end. Then you could use a U-Joint that's double D on both ends to connect to the new column. Double D is what the end of the column is in your last photo.
The Wizzard

 

I would consider replacing the steering box, but one of the PO built a bracket around the steering box which would probably put me in a situation of finding a specific steering box to fit the space. Probably more trouble that what its worth.

So, someone tell me if I wrong. After I remove the steering column like Matt suggested, I'm left with a smooth 3/4 inch shaft. From the 3/4 inch shaft I could attach the pictured u-joint which is a (3/4 inch smooth x 1 inch DD u-joint). From the u-joint, then I would then insert a 1 inch DD shaft pictured which inserts into the new steering column 1 inch DD end also pictured. Is this the correct sequence or am I still missing something?

 

thats exactley what you do. 3/4 smooth to 1" DD. i would definitely weld it on not being power steering. they might make a 3/4 coupling that you drill a hole through and use the bolt like it was but im not sure.. then you just need to figure out the length that is comfortable for you and always keep in mind what steering wheel you want to run.. most all of the columns i know of are splined, so if you planned on putting a stock old ford or merc wheel on it with tapered keyed shaft, you have to get creative..

 

Sorry, but personally I would never weld a U-Joint on anything. It's very simple to convert your 3/4" round shaft to a 3/4" double D shaft. Just flatten the sides of the shaft 180 degrees from each other till the Double D joint slides on. If I did not have a mill I would take some time with a hand file and get the job done, it's just mild steel shafting. If you choose to buy a good joint with needle bearings, welding it on will guarantee you will cook the grease out of it. It will then have a short life and sooner or latter you will again half to deal with the weld.
The Wizzard

 

I appreciate the information gentlemen. Now that I know what parts to be looking at I can probably figure out the appropriate lengths. Learning that the steering box has 3/4 inch smooth shaft was a big help. I'll check with the vendors of u-joints to see whether there is a place to bolt through the shaft/u-joint or consider filing down the smooth shaft to a DD shape as another workaround. I'll probably stay away from welding just because I don't have that capability or skill.

Tomorrow I get to pick up the re-chromed dash insert, I already have the re-chromed dash surround, and the gauges are currently getting calibrated/converted. Next two pieces of the puzzle are repairing the hole in the firewall and rewiring from the fuse panel back to the dash/steering column.

 

the shafts on the mercs are hollow too so if you buzz it down to fit the DD make sure that it doesnt get to thin..

 

Thanks for that important detail.

 

I did the double D deal. Then used a bit of DD stock to a vibration reducer into a Flaming River roadster column that looks a lot like the original. Of course, I don't have a column shifter. I ended up swapping out the box later, and that made all the difference in the world.

 

Update: I've been on hold waiting for my gauges to get reworked and they are now finished in order to start putting the dash back in place. I'm at the point where I need to move forward and fix the firewall. One of the previous owners Macgyvered the firewall with a big metal plate and gas pedal. Part of the path forward will include replacing the steering column and steering wheel. I already moved the shifter to the floor. I need to decide whether to purchase an aftermarket steering wheel or something period correct. How hard is it to attach a 49-50 Merc steering wheel to a new aftermarket 6 or 9 hole steering column? Will I be creating myself a whole lot of headache trying to attach an old steering wheel to a new aftermarket steering column? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Ain't it hell trying to get all this stuff figured out? I'm in the same boat.

 

It can be fustrating at times when you don't have the experience to just keep moving forward. Here are some additional pictures of the metal plate and gas pedal. Any guidance on how to reset or what to get to replace the gas pedal mechanism(s) would be appreciated as well.

 

I put a 49-51 Merc accessory wheel onto a Flaming River column. It was very simple. I cut a keyway into the top of the splined shaft to put a key in to lock the Merc wheel into place. Then I figured out how to make an adapter out of two pvc pipe fittings to make the horn ring of the Merc wheel work through the GM style column. I posted some pics of the set up on my thread "undorkifying a merc." Here's a link to the post:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=678319&page=9

 

I put a 49-51 Merc accessory wheel onto a Flaming River column. It was very simple. I cut a keyway into the top of the splined shaft to put a key in to lock the Merc wheel into place. Then I figured out how to make an adapter out of two pvc pipe fittings to make the horn ring of the Merc wheel work through the GM style column. I posted some pics of the set up on my thread "undorkifying a merc." Here's a link to the post:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=678319&page=9

 

Thanks for the info. I'm actually subscribed to your thread and saw what you did. I really appreciate the pictures you post. Because I still have the original steering box installed I just purchased an original column and steering wheel. It sounded like the lesser of two evils. In other words, trying to attached an original steering wheel to a new aftermarket column and original steering box OR attaching an original steering wheel to an original column. I hope I'm right. Once I get the new original setup, I'm hoping the column wiring won't become the next hurdle to overcome.

 

The wiring on the column shouldn't be too big a deal....so long as the signal switch inside is ok. I think I may have the factory wiring diagram someplace that would show the column wiring if you need it when you get that far.

 

I have the following diagram out of the Lincoln-Mercury Overhaul Manual. If this is the diagram you mention, I have it, but if it is something different please post it when you have the time. Thanks.

 

Update: Slow but steady progress. With help from others here on the HAMB I was able to disassemble my new old steering column and clean it up. I have ordered a new set of column replacement wires from www.macsautoparts.com. Once I get the parts delivered, I’ll reassemble the steering column and continue moving forward in this small tangent of a project that all started with trying to fix my intermittent light switch. Funny how one little something can snowball into a complete dash removal and refurbishment, steering wheel and column replacement and soon to be firewall and accelerator repair.

 

More pictures in sequence from my work on Sunday.

 

LOL Doesn't that always seem to be the case? I set out to replace my master cylinder and pedal assembly and ended up with a new dash, steering column and wheel, wiring, making 1/3 of a firewall AND the new master and pedal assembly. Only took me 18 months. LOL

 

Looks like you've got your column solution all figured out.

For anyone else I found this information really useful when I changed my steering box but kept my original Merc column.

http://borgeson.com/Images/2013_Catalog.pdf

It's the borgeson u joint company catalog, go to page 26 and there is a whole section on how to design a steering system. I.E. how to pick what joints, how to connect different shaped shafts together safely. For example, the section mentions, as Pist n Broke did, not to weld U joints because you'll boil out the grease.

49 dreamer, I'd look into buying a gas equipped MIG welder. That gas pedal assembly is the perfect project to learn welding. Get a 4" grinder with some cut off wheels, and you'll have that gas pedal modified in no time. It would be alot faster than trying to find something that fits from the junkyard.

I always get questions from people in the street, what is it like to buy a classic car. I say, the day you buy that car, you better go and buy a welder too, you're going to need it.

 

I'm going to throw a link on here to cross reference the other 1950 Mercury column thread:

Rebuilding 1950 Mercury Column Shift
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=756822

 

I'm getting closer and closer to the point where I'm ready to convince myself to buy a welder and all the associated equipment. It has been hard to justify because I don't have that much welding to have done from what I know today, but I certainly want to learn.

 

Update: I decided to remove the metal plate that was attached to the firewall to see what I would be dealing with in order to repair the firewall. As you can see the P.O. cut out extra firewall to make room for the engine replacement. Unfortunately they didn't finish the job and this is what I am left with. After taking the plate off, I refit the transmision tunnel cover back into position by cutting a hole for the new floor shifter. I am hoping I can reuse the tunnel cover and figure out a way to add to it in order to seal up the hole. My basic plan is to pattern something out using the old tranny cover and build up something that will properly mate to the firewall, but I wanted to ask everyone else if there might be a better approach to fixing this issue. Suggestions? I also snagged a picture of an uncut merc firewall from a fellow hamber to illustrate what an uncut firewall is suppose to look like. Thanks.

 

Ah, the Mercury snowball effect, I know it well. It can also be called the "while I'm at it ai might as well" syndrome.

That's going to be a lot cleaner with the stock column and not have that cobbled together setup in it.

 

Looks like the same guy that cut and "fixed" your firewall is the same guy that "smoothed" mine.....I'm guessing the mystery guy we are dealing with is part beaver based on the way he chewed up our firewalls. LOL Doesn't look like too bad of a fix to me. I'd say add to the trans cover that way you are welding on a piece out of the car and then you can just screw the whole mess back down. If you add to the firewall, you are going to make a mess of whatever paint is on the engine side and you will have to try to repaint it squeezing behind the engine.


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Here are a few more pictures if they can be helpful for reference. I'd agree with DrDave and add onto the trans cover. These pictures are a '51 Merc. I recently read that a '51 Merc trans tunnel may have a larger hump that a '49-'50 because of the introduction of the Merc-o-matic in '51. It appears that area of yours that is cut off is still the same on a 50 or 51.