Ok, so on my running 400 SBC, I discovered worn bearings and a little fine metal in the pan, but no ridge on the cylinders. I have a plan for the rebuild, but since I am clearly not a motor guy, i need to know if I am missing anything in the plan? NOTE - It is not a race motor. It is a low RPM torque motor for my COE with 9.25:1 compression, small cam, stock heads. Here is the plan for rebuilding the short block... 1. Put it all apart (marking the rods and caps) 2. Remove the cam bearings 3. hot tank the engine with the galley plugs removed, then put the plugs back in 4. Install New cam bearings 5. Have the crank ground or polished (already .010/.010) 6. Hone cylinders and install new rings on old pistons (already .020) I really don't want to bore it anymore as it already has flatop pistons in it. DO I NEED TO CHECK the PISTON PINS? 7. Install crank with new bearings 8. Install new rings on pistons and put them in the block with new bearings 9. Install new cam and lifters 10. Install new timing chain 11. Install new oil pump STOCK, HIGH VOLUME, or HIGH PRESSURE? 12. Install verything else...my rebuilt heads, intake, tins. etc... Will this plan work? Thanks
never high pressure... u need volume not pressure... not a race motor u should go stock. your missing the most important item, clean, clean, clean... clean = no leaks and throw away that RTV your thinking about... lol (factory doesn't use it) oh did i mention, CLEAN!
Got it, Cleanliness is important... What about the pistons and pins? Do I need to do anything with them (or should I just run them through the dishwasher so they are clean...ha!?)
make sure the grooves are clean for free movement of the rings, some pistons have a tit in the groove to line up the rings, if you have this dont grind it out... lol stagger your rings. get this book, will be your best friend and reference! How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy David Vizard http://www.barnesandnoble.com/listi..._-Q000000633-_-2693079822925&cm_mmca2=pla&r=1
Don't assume anything. After you get it cleaned up measure the pistons and bore with a michrometer and make sure the clearances are within spec. Same with the crankshaft and bearings. Stock Chevy oil pump is all you need. Melling makes a replacement pump that comes with a real nice drive shaft. Fel Pro gasket set is the best you can get. The 400 SBC is a great engine and with a little work and not much money it will make 475HP and almost 500LB of torque.
Thats right! get that book. not only does it give you instructions, it also provide tips and tricks along with the history of sbc and number cross reference charts for blocks and heads!
The book is a good idea, I even bet they have it at the library. I'll mic the cylinders too and keep my fingers crossed that they are within tolerances.
I got the book and I am reading it. Now I have several more questions: IF I have to bore it .030 over.... where do I buy flat-top pistons to replace mine, for a good price? Do I replace the rods with the longer rods and can that be done cheaply? The old distons are .045 below the deck, should I have the block decked? I am happy with the 9.25 compression that I have calculated.
Spend the extra money on the 1 peice oil pan gasket. Like this one. Best thing I ever bought. They aren't prone to leaking in the corners, like the 4 piece gaskets of old. And comes with cool little clips to hold the gasket and pan in place if you ever have to pull the pan when its in a car (I had to twice in my racecar). http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-OS34510T/ Always high volume, never high pressure on an oil pump. Unless you are going to run an external cooler or remote oil filter that is elevated. I have had good luck running the Melling M55HV style pumps. Also stay away from Fram oil filters. I don't care what model it is, extra grippy, toughguard whatever. I have had those crappy things collapse too many times. Stick with a Wix filter, Part# 51069R has always served me well. Or Part# 51060R if you need a shorter filter.
A good machinest will point you in the right direction.I replace the pistons on every rebuild,why take the chance on a worn pin bore?
I talked to an engine builder today. The price to tear down, clean, machine and reassemble my 400 short block is somewhere between $775 - $1400. It all depends on if it needs bored out and if the crank can just be polished or if it needs reground. At $775, I am looking at tear down, remove galley plugs, clean the block completely, new freeze plugs and cam bearings, etc, hone the cylinders, polishing the crank, reuse the pistons, new rings and bearings, and full assembly. Ready for my heads and intake. This price includes parts. At $1,100, same as above: plus bore with torque plate, new pistons, resuse stock rods, regrind the crank. At $1,400, same as above but with new 5.7 rods. Do the prices seem right? They charge $300 to assemble the engine. Since I am not an engine guy, I figure that is money well spent.
Go all in...(it`s always easier to spend someone else`s money). Seriously though, around here that would be about average.
Who picks on me? Seems that if I mention the "small-block" engine in a post, I seem to get picked on by those mean old ford dudes...well um, also the pontiac, plymouth, dodge, kaiser, nash, volvo, jeep, buick, mercury, edsel, matchbox, trolley, big wheel, etc...but for some reason, never the renault or kia crowd? (HA!) I think I will go for it on building the 400, um errrrr, "wee-cube" engine. It won't do me any good hanging around the garage. If it has to be bored, I will use the speedpro flat top pistons ($180 for a set from Northern Auto Parts, although they might be cheaper yet through Speedway Motors). I will need to find a good price on the 5.7 rods.
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