Ok, here's my delema... My '57 Ford Ranchero came with a 302 out of a '78 F150, the front of the motor was apart down to the timing gear cover. The cover has been replaced with a RTCF-302A cover and supposedly the timing chain was replaced. I installed a new waterpump ('69 Mustang), fuel pump, belts, hoses, yadda, yadda, yadda! I got it fired up and it ran pretty good (no smoke or expensive noises) but it overheated (as in boiling over) very quickly. I suspected the timing was off due to the vacuum advance (points distributor) being up against the top radiator hose. I found that there wasn't a timing pointer on the cover and the one off the old cover (2 o'clock position) wouldn't fit. In a box of extra parts I found a pointer that would mount to the PS of the engine but I couldn't put it on because of the waterpump's lower outlet. After taking everything back off, I installed the pointer. Now the problem is that you won't be able to see it because of the waterpump. I pulled all the sparkplugs and did a compression test. Yes, I know that one has nothing to do with the other, it's just another point of reference. The readings were... #1 170 #2 160 #3 155 #4 170 #5 170 #6 170 #7 170 #8 160 I put the hose from the compression tester back in #1 hole and the other end in a can of motor oil and rotated the engine until I could see bubble's in the oil, at the point that the bubbles stopped (this should be tdc) I checked the rotor and it was about 90 dergrees off from the #1 on the cap. I checked the degree markings on the dampner and the zero (tdc) was at 11 o'clock. I pulled the distributor and re-installed it with the rotor pointing at #1. After re-installing everything, I attempted to start the motor and it won't start and it backfires through the carb. Sooo.... what am I missing? I'm at a loss! Anybody got any thoughts?
You are at tdc exhaust stroke.I put my finger over the plug hole and bump the starter to find tdc compression.
Had sort of the same problem, was told 302 was an HO so wired plugs to distributor for Ho & 351 , back fired but wouldn't start. Pulled no1 plug, stuck finger in till blew off, then pulled no 3 and watched distrib. with cover off as I turned over and blew my finger off no3 . Was opposite of the HO& 351 So I have stock 302 , rewired dist. to plugs , fired right up. So double check your plug wires. Hope you find your problem, I also have timing pointer trble, can't see it. Made a pointer for drivers side, round pointed rod fits in a small hole in your timing cover, found about it by looking at picture's of a lot of vintage 302, 289. PM me and I could post a picture if your interested.
180 out wont make it overheat. Make sure it has a 302 cam, some times 302w got a 351w cam, then the order would be 351w... Did the person who put the front end back on by chance reverse the thermostat? That would cause it to overheat very rapidly
I bought a Maverick that wasn't running quite right. 302W and auto. I drove it for a while. Went ok but not quite the way it should. I eventually decided to investigate further starting with a basic tune up, and was surprised to find that the plug leads on 6 and 7 were the wrong way round. Corrected it and made all the difference. Funny that!
what water pump are you using.. i did a quick check on that part number and it says it's made for a reverse rotation water pump? could be spinning the pump backwards?? if not set up on a serp belt system
When the distributor is set right the nipple where the vac hose connects should be pointed to the center of the fan. Good luck, Harley.
I'm more of a GM guy so it may not apply here (I only watched my grandfather on any Ford build I've ever been a part of) but I put the intake manifold gasket in backwards on the SBC in my truck once. It caused the engine to overheat almost instantly because it blocked off the water ports between the heads and the manifold. Just say'n.
Out of time will most certainly make one overheat, 180 out won't because it won't run. The thermostat is one of the first things I checked, pulled it out and put in a pot of boiling water.
RTCF-302A is for a normal rotation waterpump, it uses a semi round port and the reverse rotation uses a a more square and larger port.
Thanks... Birdman42 and Pila38 are correct, after giving it a little more thought I realize that I am 180 out. It's hell getting old, can't remember shit!
Another thing you can check since it was apart when you bought it, look at the front of the head and make sure the square head gasket tab is visible between the block and the head. I've ran into several that has had the head gasket installed wrong and the coolant bypasses the head
I rechecked everything this morning and as suspected, it was 180 off. Retimed it and she fired right off, purrs like a kitten! BUT.... getting hot as hell within about 3 minutes! Also pushing the water out of the radiator. I suspect a blown headgasket even though there isn't any water/oil mixing and nothing coming out of the exhaust. I'm going to hook up a hose to the heater hose bib on the water pump to double check that there's flow and if that checks out... time to pull the heads!
Grumpy,you said 302,have the heads been off or do you know? Sounds like the head gaskets are on wrong and could be ,since you don't know for sure the heads are on backwards right on left and left on right. Water jackets get blocked that way quick and will run hot and push all the water out of the radiator in a matter of minutes.
I don't know if the heads have been off or not, the car sat for quite a long time prior to me getting it. The guy that I got it from never had it running. I hooked up a hose to the heater hose bib on the waterpump and ran the engine, nothing but a slight trickle of water while it was running and it never got over 195 during that time, after I shut it off there was a little water that came out. This has me wondering if there is some kind of obstruction... Although I checked the thermostat in a pan of boiling water, I think that I will pull it out (after it cools back down) and see what happens then.
The Jalopy Journal
