Someday,I'm going to put exaust out the back of my roadster. although I have baffles in the lakes style headers the noise is getting to me ,especially on long hauls.Is there really an advantage in spending the extra $$$ for the aluminized pipes? They will all be welded together,so no aluminum there. Can't afford stainless,or would go that route. Also,any opinions as to what small mufflers sound best on a Caddy Engine???
Mild steel will rust, aluminized won't (and you can get some exhaust paint to spray over the welds). Simple enough And Smithy's would sound great with the Caddy
Either will rust, aluminized is just a steel pipe with a coating on the outside. The aluminized will take longer till you'll see rust, but it will rust too. I'd go with the aluminized and paint the welded areas as well as the seams & bends and it'll look good for quite a while.
I didnt know you could get plain steel. I guess you can, Aluminized is the norm anyways. I really didnt think it was expensive? I had my truck done, I think I had $150, thats duals and hangers custom bent, and welded...
You mean someone did it for you for that price? Around here I got a price about 3 years ago for my T coupe--same exhaust(lakes headers) and they wanted $500 for stainless and $300 for aluminized. Thats why I'm thinking about doing my own. Pain in ass without a rack,though
Out here in dry land, steel pipes don't really rust noticeably. Where you are, it would be a a good idea to use aluminized tube and paint the welds. Unless you keep the car parked indoors most of the time, then it probably doesn't really matter.
Anyone ever use this? Its for INSIDE the pipes???? Enlarge product image Eastwood Hi-Temp Internal Exhaust Coating w/extension tube Item #13795 Z In Stock - Ready to Ship Today Components Price: $26.98 Only $19.99 You Save $6.99 High-Temp. Internal Exhaust Coating reduces underhood temperatures and extends the life of exhaust system components Use our exclusive formula to coat the inside of exhaust system components to trap the heat inside the tubing, thereby lowering underhood and under car temperatures. Great for headers, exhaust manifolds and more! Thermal coating withstands up to 1800 degrees F 2'-long, 360-degree aerosol extension nozzle for easy application Works with both new and used exhaust system components
Getting carried away now... Just put whatever for pipes on it. It's not like it will be out in those nasty road chemicals in the winter. If it did, even the aluminized pipes will rot all along the factory seam, from front to back...want pics? Old type build look would not look so good with alum coated pipes. I'd go plain steel IF you can find it, then do your best with hi temp black paint for outdoor cooking grilles. A spit hole in the bottom rear of the muffler would help keep them from rotting out, but some don't want a small leak there.
Aluminized tubing is not alot more expensive than mild steel and it looks better and lasts longer! A muffler shop that specializes in custom exhaust is your best bet...ask your buddies for a recommendation! I've been doing it for 40 years!!
Aluminized tube is the best way and it isnt that expensive.I dont think the alum is a coating it is killed into it.
I've used the aluminumized exhaust for a long time,,it will last for many years. I know a lot of guys here prefer the Porter glass packs,,I have them on my '32 sedan but I'm not happy with the sound,,I have flow Masters on the wagon and the '32 truck,,in the future I will use them on the sedan also. HRP
My Nomad's exhaust was done in 1986, mild steel with 39 inch long glasspacks. Over 300,000 miles later, there are no rust outs or holes although there is a light surface rust on the outside of the pipes. I often think about "upgrading" but no reason to, yet!
Plain steel = traditional. I love the sound of my Porter mufflers. But that's on my boring belly-button ho-hum SBC.
The first legal exhaust system that I did in 1989 I think, was a 34 Cabriolet. I see him every once and a while and the pipes are still the same, the 2" 14 Ga aluminized pipes hooked to to a Flathead. He's replaced the mufflers at least twice but the aluminized tubing is still the same. 201 dollars for the whole job. I still have the 1 dollar that his buddy gave to me to represent the first legal exhaust system. I did many in my garage before I opened my shop. Steel will rust out very quickly because they don't dry out in the winter time start ups and rust out from the inside on a collector car. The tubing is made from aluminized material so it is aluminized inside and out. The weld will rust over time but a little header paint on the weld will make it last a looooong time. You can take scotchbrite from the grocery store and give it the brushed stainless look very easily and it looks good for a long time.
I've had a Flowmaster dual exhaust system on my '66 truck since I bought it about 13 years ago and, although I've gone through a set of mufflers & a set of headers, the pipes are still intact. It's pretty amazing, actually, considering the truck is not garaged, I live in the moist salty northeast & I only drive the truck in short spurts. There's always condensation coming out of the pipes when I start it. Truthfully, I never even realized that there was such a thing as aluminized steel, until I got the truck & found the paperwork for the exhaust in the glove compartment. Now, if only the body panels would be that rust proof.
there's a local place that applies an aluminized coating to headers and exhaust tubing. i've seen it on exhaust and it seems to hold up pretty well. my question is how does it do on exhaust manifolds? i might be interested in it for my fenton exhaust manifolds.
gas welding some exhaust pipe/tubing seems takes extra heat and mechanically stirring up some material that floats to the top. I think that may be the aluminum coating.
Years ago I bought a new exhaust system (Walker brand from the local parts store). Before I installed it I painted it with 2 coats of aluminum hi temp stove pipe paint. Ten years later it still looked like new, not a spec of rust on it. This was on a daily driver pickup truck used in Canada, summer and winter, salted roads, rain, slush, whatever. The first 2 feet got dull gray and discolored by the heat but the paint stayed on and protected the steel. Of course today there are much better high temp paints than old stove pipe paint. So, if you don't want to spend the extra money for stainless or aluminized you can get practically as long life from a standard exhaust if you paint it.
The aluminum coating is applied to both sides of the steel while it is the flat sheet. It is then slit to narrower widths and sent thru a roll former to make tube. Thus the coating is on the inside as well as the outside of the tube.
No H pipe I seem to recall that I read somewhere that when you add down & under pipes to lakes-style headers that it is a good idea to have a flex coupling after the first elbow. Any thoughts on that? As far as tubing,I will go with the aluminized---maybe paint it black
Those flex pipes were never available until the front wheel drive cars became popular in the 80-90s. A dead give away that it is a modern car. They look stupid on an old hotrod. IMHO
The latest issue of Rod & Custom just hit the news stands. It has an article about building a rod exhaust system. The guy is replacing his steel system with aluminized. He ia also using a short flex pipe for the rear section where the outlet go thought the frame.
Sure the muffler shop will want to sell you a flex connector. The mark up on one is great for the shop. How many millions of exhaust systems were built without them with no ill affects? Then suddenly in the 90s they become required? I've only done a few thousand maybe but if it is not a transversely mounted engine, I see no need for the customer to use a flex connector. I understand the shops reason for recommending them. $$$
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