If I pull a vacuum on the booster should it hold or can I keep sucking? 59 ElCamino disc drum My brakes started sticking and the pedal takes too long to return. I pulled the booster off and the boot around the the booster push rod was shredded. I pulled it out and now when I suck on the line I can keep pulling air. Is my booster shot?
keep suckin' cowboy... sounds like baltimore's in town? I never sucked on one but it should hold vacuum, otherwise it's a vacuum leak.
I just started laughing out loud and had to try and explain that comment to my wife. I knew the booster was bad just needed confirmation. Now does anybody know what booster Ecklers sends in their conversion kit. It must be modern because it has metric studs on it.
Never know with Ori's And AutoZ what ya gonna get. Could be a remanufactured Bendix or Wagner or whatever. They have offshore companies rebuild them. Got one two days ago remanufactured by Wagner in Mexico, distributed by a company in Canada, off eBay, ordered from a company in the State of Washington.
Mission accomplished! Just looks like your standard 9" "street rod" style booster. I bought one for my f1 on ebay for like $50 or something. It also had metric studs. I'd just measure it up and find something that matches.
I would replace the boot first. If the boot is bad, or missing, (ask how I know this) the booster will not work. If the master cyl is off, the booster won't work. So I'd get a boot first. I replaced a booster once, because it had been off so long I forgot the boot was there, Installed a new booster, still without the boot, scratched my head and then the light went off. Reinstalled the original booster, this time with boot, and I had power brakes.
On my 68 vette, I had booster problems and I read somewhere where you can replace the seal where the push rod goes in and it would fix the booster....yep...it fixed my booster....it had some surface rust problems there not allowing a seal...that is when I let it sit for nearly 20 years.
Yes, the check valve should hold vacuum in the booster. The pedal push rod into the booster is normally part of the control valve. Replace the push rod and see if vacuum can be built. The boot prevents foreign material from entering the control valve, and usually retains the air filter. The master cylinder does not have to be attached for the booster to for vacuum to build. The pedal should have it's own return spring, and not rely on the booster to return the pedal.
Got my new E-Bay booster, in Chrome none the less. One trip around the block was a little light on the pedal, after I adjusted the pin going from the booster to the M/C it stops like it did before. I was only off by 0.200, my floor chalk math failed me. Of course the engine runs better now without the vaccume leak and the pedal returns like it is supposed to. Now to the back to make a stiffer panhard bar and add a sway bar. Thanks
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