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1931 chev won't start when hot

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Wayne mcMichael, Jun 22, 2011.

  1. I HAVE A 31 CHEV THAT STARTS GREAT WHEN COLD. iT ALSO RUNS WONDERFUL. pROBLEM IS THAT AFTER A RUN AND WHEN i SHUT IT OFF THE STARTER JUST GRUNTS. NEW BATTERY AND BRUSHES IN THE STARTER. THE MECHANICS SAYS THE CABLES ARE THE RIGHT DIAMETER. WHAT ELSE CAN IT BE ?
    tHANKS IN ADVANCE. WAYNE
     
  2. farmergal
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,069

    farmergal
    Member
    from somewhere

    we have that same problem with our '50 plymouth. can't go for awhile and then stop and shut her off with the expectation of starting her back up in 5 or 10 minutes. :). we purchased and electronic ignition system for it in hopes that eliminating the points will make her more reliable.
     
  3. chuxx
    Joined: Jul 15, 2007
    Posts: 208

    chuxx
    Member

    check to see if the starter is getting too hot due to proximity to exhaust manifold/headers
     
  4. Worn bushings can cause this by allowing the armature to contact the case. Had this problem with an old Chevy. Started fine cold, gave me a fit with the engine hot.
     

  5. OldBuzzard
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 878

    OldBuzzard

    Are the cables new or old? Corrosion in the ends where the ends are crimped on can do that.

    Will it start with the crank?

    How are the starter bearings/bushings on the ends of the armature?? Could be armature dragging on the field.

    Clean grounds and all connections, wire brush or sandpaper clean.
     
  6. 29moonshine
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,341

    29moonshine
    Member

    i used a larger gauge wire from the switch to the starter on my nova and solved the problem
     
  7. clean connections every where !
    double check all grounds -engine- frame - body -frame - dash- body-batt-frame

    electricity needs a completed circuit
     
  8. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,150

    slammed
    Member

    Try a ground to the water pump/batt, or pump to frame. A small gnd strap to each valve cover helps.
     
  9. Normbc9
    Joined: Apr 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,121

    Normbc9
    Member

    I have a '32 inline OHV 194 and it used to do that. I found that the coil was the problem. Try another coil and see if the problem goes away. I was told mine was getting "Hot."
    Normbc9
     
  10. This is likely. I've had the same problem on alot of Chevy starters absorbing heat. Usually doesn't become a problem until August around here. I've done the additional Ford solenoid on alot of my Chevys. Some people don't like it, but, it's cured the problem on every car I've ever done it to.
     
  11. sskustoms
    Joined: Jun 18, 2007
    Posts: 277

    sskustoms
    Member

    Where is your ground cable bolted to ? If its to the frame run another short cable from the engine block ,can go off one of the bell housing bolts to the frame ,starter needs a good ground.
     
  12. Problem solved I Put a 00 double ought ground from battery to frame and double grounded with another 00 to the transmission. Thank you everyone for your help !!
    It was very much appreciated.
    Wayne
     
  13. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Can't have too many good grounds !!! Glad it's fixed, and thanks for sharing the info.

    Happy Roddin' 4TTRUK
     
  14. ShortBus
    Joined: Dec 31, 1969
    Posts: 916

    ShortBus
    Member

    Welding cable makes great battery cable. It's designed to carry lots of amperage; I replaced my standard battery cables with it and it completely eliminated that pesky Chevy hot-start issue. No Ford solenoid needed.
     
  15. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Even better: A voltmeter can be used and will tell the tale in minutes.
    (if you take your time between check points)
     

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