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YES SIR May I have another.....The May 2012 Banger Meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, May 1, 2012.

  1. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    Flash babbitt steel backed main bearings is one reason. Full pressure oil to rods and mains another. The deep block secure location of the main caps a third. The first car in the Hop Up Magazine 100mph club was PB powered
     

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  2. That is a nice looking engine. My friend has a stock 29 Plymouth with a 4 Banger. I think it is 174 cubic inch engine. The car is a two door sedan and is heavy. My stock model "A" seems to have a lot more horsepower.

    I like working on his Plymouth. It has a vacuum canister fuel pump that works off the engine oil pump. The gas tank looks like a 32 Ford. It took a while to get the vacuum fuel pump to work. He bought a bunch of them. They were pretty rusty but with combination of all of them we got one that works. He has built, sold and bought a lot of high dollar cars and I think he has enjoyed this one the most. It is something he can work on . No computers, fractional size bolts and nuts, and just plain good engineering makes it a joy.
     
  3. Oh, great ! Now you tell me ...lol
    Ron
     

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  4. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I would have had my Plymouth running two or three times for the time and $$$ I have put in the Dodge Bros. But I really, really thought the Morton & Brett head needed to be out and running where people could see it.
     
  5. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

    Model A or B motor into a standard T chassis

    I apologize for interrupting but this is my first Banger thread post and despite relentless key word searching I have found little info on this topic. I figure if anybody can answer my questions it is the incredible knowledge base on this thread.

    Is this feasible or too much work. I have a standard 26 roadster and want to ditch the crazy T donkey for either an A or B motor and box. Last resort is to graft an A chassis but am trying to build a trad gowjob based on T bones. I suspect there are threads on this topic that I haven't been able to find.

    Would the main problem be clutch and brake pedal location and mechanical brake linkages.

    Can any one steer me to relevant threads or interweb sites. I would be very grateful for any guidance.

    Kume
     
  6. RobC
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 117

    RobC
    Member
    from Australia

  7. I did start this years ago but abandoned using the T chassis. Made it worse for myself by using RHD running gear...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I was trying to keep the crankline in the same place on a full fendered tourer.

    Here's a couple of pictures someone sent me of an install they did.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Kume,

    You could use the front mount from a '34 pick-up and fab something like a float-a-motor side mounts. An other option would be to fab a T type mount to "hang" the motor from the top of the rail.

    The clutch pedal will need to be reshaped a bit to clear the frame rail.

    On my '21 on a narrowed A frame, this is how I set up the mech. brakes;

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I simply shortened each side of the bellcrank and added 1/4" plates and gussets.

    Ron
     
  9. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    HAMBster GARY? has an A-engined, T-framed gow.

    [​IMG]

    And -Brent- has a similar setup with his A-engined, TT-framed roadster.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

  11. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

    Thanks Monkey Biker

    That looks like a snug fit - is that the stock front cross member you have mounted the front engine mount to? why did the RHD make it more difficult.??

    Kume
     
  12. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member


    Thanks Ron

    Thats encouraging - I thought about the rear engine mounts hung off the rails like a T - seems like the simplest solution. Brakes dont seem to be too much of an issue.

    Kume
     
  13. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

    Thanks BigCheese

    Gary's roadster is one of my all time favorites - looks like he has front brakes so assume A axle?. Not familiar with the bottom T but love the exposed mechanical brake rods. There is no stopping me know!
     
  14. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Mind if I add mine to the lot?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Was there an April Banger meet? I've been out of town and trying to update the Tech links - got March & May, but no Apr with a quick search.....
     
  16. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

  17. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

    After a day spent trawling the HAMB following leads from above I think I have found everything I need. I new it would all be in here somewhere.
    Thanks to great info and build threads for Brent, Gary and Youngster's A/Ts - absolutely inspirational stuff.
    cheers
    Kume
     
  18. I was looking at mounting a second crossmember to pick up the A front engine mount. There's the snout of a T sump mounted to the original front crossmember to help line things up.

    The body has eventually made it's way onto this my "1927 Mercury" as christened by Mr. Big Cheese...

    [​IMG]

    After messing around porting a B engine that turned out to be cracked I've been offered a hot diamond A engine which if funds allow will find it's way in there.
     
  19. Anyone know what kind of psi the "B" fuel pump puts out ?
    Ron
     
  20. A little slow this morning, I found it 1 1/2 to 3 psi.
    Ron
     
  21. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Ah, you liked that, did you? :)

    Such a great-looking car!
     
  22. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Ron please get a gauge..... vacuum/pressure

    Your gonna need a Vacuum Gauge to adjust those carbs
     
  23. Thanks Jim, will do..
    Ron
     
  24. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

  25. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 984

    Kume
    Member

    ["I was looking at mounting a second crossmember to pick up the A front engine mount. There's the snout of a T sump mounted to the original front crossmember to help line things up."]

    Thanks Monkey

    It now makes sense. Riveting a second cross member in seems a good option for me. allows some flexibility in working out rear axle and torque tube position.

    By the way - love your flathead T - there is something incongruous about seeing a bright shiny yellow or red Ford hotrod in the English landscape but your T fits in like some kind of renegade medieval knight. love it!
    Kume
     
  26. denis4x4
    Joined: Apr 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,205

    denis4x4
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Colorado

    Check out the coverage of the Speedster Reunion in the August issue of R&C.
     
  27. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor


  28. Jim; This is a great link even for the realativly simple banger motors. I feel smarter already ;). Well, maybe not smarter but I feel that I'm on the right track thanks to you. Really looking forward to knowing rather than guessing :)
    Thanks Jim !
     
  29. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,346

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

  30. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

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