ok, before i get killed, i searched, and i didnt find what i was looking for. but then again, i aint to good at searchin. im trying to figure out how i want to lower my F1, cheaply as possible. i dont really want to do a subframe, but if i have to, i have to. i figured id throw this out, hoping someone had some tricks. how much can i gain (lose?) by removing a few leaf springs? i see posies has a mono spring for it, but they are pricey. i cant use blocks in the back, because the springs are on top of the axle. if there was a way to get both axles on top of the springs, it would help a lot, but i cant think of a safe way to do it. id appreciate any help on this, and im sorry if this is something that has been beaten to death. i have an idea for the front, but it would probably get me the darwin award, so im not even going to try it. thanks guys. trey
Trey, I've lowered a couple the cheap way. Heres how..... Take 5 leaves outa the back. I take out every second one starting with the longest. Take a few leaves outa the front so you end up with four. Then de-arc the mainleaf. You can do it the easy way and just de-arc the end of it. This gets it down to a respectable height.....Shiny
The absolute easiest way to get the front in the dirt is a jag front end. It's about a 2 hour job. 2 bolts either side. Front ones go sideways, back ones go vertical. All you need to do is fab something for the bolts to go into and top shock mounts. And it's cheap. If I could figutre out posting pics, I would.........brootal!
Another trick i've heard is to take the leaf packs apart and take the main leaf and flip it so the spring eyes are facing down, then put the whole thing back together using all the leaves. I've never tried it but i've heard it helps avoind that bouncing effect you sometimes get when removing leaves.
thanks for all the help guys. im going to play with springs this weekend. is there a tech post on how to de-arc springs? trey
Trey you can move both axles to the top of the springs. That'll give you about 3" in the back and about 2" in the front. Then drop a leaf or two out and your down on the cheap. Its really no biggy.
The alignment pin on your springs is the centerbold, just turn it over. On your front axle you'll have to weld a plate to the bottom of the axle, if you got a stick welder Low hydrogen rod works best, or tack that bugger on and find a friend with a stick welder. For the plate just snag some 1/4 -3/8 steel plate and copy the mounting flange for the axle.
thanks mr. beaner.. i was thinking of doing this, but i didnt know how well it would hold up. i never have much luck welding cast. is there any reason i cant do this in the rear too? my leaf stack i thick, front and rear. almost 3" i believe. but by the time i remove leaves, it will work good i think. thanks man. trey
Those axles are forged. Get ahold of ravin61 here he just set one up for his '46 Chebby, he's probably got pics (or he better). He probably has a trick or tow to make your caster come out right. The rear end you can weld up with wire just fine. Get you some pads from the local roundy round place they run about 14 bucks.
I think by putting the axles on top of the springs it will lower the truck 5 or 6 inches!!!!!! Do the math. Beware of axle and oil pan clearance. Don't ask me how I know.!!............OLDBEET
im gonna ask anyway, how do you know? makes sense, i wasnt adding in the thickness of the axle too. id actually like to lower it as much as possible while removing as few leaves as possible. thanks.. trey
I know a guy running a pretty stock 52 F1 who put the axles over top of the springs. I think I have some pictures of some other setups, I'll check when I get home tonight. That's what I'm planning on doing with mine. You also might want to think about where you want your spring perches as well. I'm bringing mine closer in (possibly inside the frame, haven't done all the measuring yet) and using longer leaves. I also believe you can buy dropped spindles. Another way is to get a mustang II crossmember and do it that way. I'm planning on using a 81 Camaro front end for mine (that's narrowed 3 inches).
Here's a picture gallery showing Jaguar IFS & IRS going into a '55 Ford Truck: http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&albumid=7337 And here's how to do it to a '57 Buick: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24785&&showall=1 As I understand it, the cars to use are XJs from the late 70's and up, Series 3 I believe they're called (correct me if I'm wrong). This really is the most inexpensive method to do a suspension swap. Here in the Northeast complete-but-rotting Jags can be had for $300 and less. Look around your area, I'm sure you'll find a suitable Jag dirt cheap if you decide to go this way.
I had an axle-on-top deal in the front on my Stude. It lowers it the height of the axle + the height of the spring, Quite a bit. It would do a studder twist thing if I slammed on the brakes, Maybe the stock setup does that too.
I think you're right there VespaJay, but you might be able to use all the XJ's, not just series 3. I'll check. All those XJ's are dirt cheap. You get suspension, big brakes and steering all in one unit. They'll actually go in a 46-48 Ford too, if you don't run fat rubber. Couldn't be simpler. Jag's have to be good for something.
Here's what we have going on on a 53... Not sure if it's gonna help with your specific question, but it'll show you what a camaro front clip will do for you (or to you for that matter). The frame is sitting on the axel in the rear, so you'll def. have to notch it. The front is at stock camaro height. http://www.blowupthespot.com/ford/
I'm gonna have to bump this back up. Anyone have any experience using a mustang II front end on this year ford? I'm thinking about going that route. Thanks. trey
Trey, Here is a link from the FTE site that discusses in detail the front suspension alternatives for early Ford trucks. I have found it helpful. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193210 It discusses the Jag, Mustang II, and several others. Myself, I'm still negotiating on buying a '48 F-1, but its a sure deal. I'm planning on using a Chassis Engineering Mustang II front because it only lowers (I'm told by them) 2"-3". Their crossmember is bolt-in and the front-eng geometry is correct for the widened MII crossmember. They also make a spring kit to lower the rear, again about 2"-3". If you want lower use Posies springs in the rear and the dropped spindles for the front.
Thanks Phil, I just got done reading that when you posted it. I tried remvoing every other leaf, and wasnt pleased with the results. My buddy has a few stock mustang Ii front ends laying around, and I think I might use one of those. Ill Just have to tear the front end down, and see how things look i guess. It will work out good, because I want to redo my motor mounts anyway, they turned out ugly, and I wasnt pleased with them at all. Ive been putting this truck on the back burner for too long, and want to get started on it. trey
trey, sorry, but i don't know about the MII in one of these, although i'm familiar with them in lots of other applications and they work just fine. but on the back - i highly recommend you DON'T remove leaves. i did in clarence. took every other leaf out. it looked good at the time. but after a couple of years it sagged a whole bunch more. and then after about ten years a main leaf broke. i'm guessing it's 'cause of the extra stress that was placed on the main leaf after the other leaves were removed. i've refurbished another set of leaves from a similar truck and am going to mount them under the axle, as suggested above.
I put a M11 in my F-1 about 10 years ago. Got tired of fighting the dropped axle,as I drive many miles per year. Its 4 inches wider than stock, rack is mounted correctly to the driver side with a 4 inch extention on the pass side. Also installed the x-member 1 inch forward of stock axle centerline, so the tire fits the wheelpit. 11 inch Granada rotors, with GM calipers. Mine sits very low, running boards scrape at all speedbumps, no bags. 125K miles and no problems.............OLDBEET
oh, yeah, i shoulda mentioned; clarence has an aspen/volare front crossmember/suspension. it's ok, but it won't get you as low as other options. that's the only drawback to it that i can see. i installed it about 15 years ago and it's held up just fine and rides fine; just not as low as i wanted.
atch: when I removed the leaves on mine, and set it on the ground, the leaves started to bend against the arch. It's something that didnt look safe to me, and I plan on using this thing, even though I want it low. Some others said to put the axle on top of the springs, but I dont have enough room and would hit my oil pan. old beet: Do you happen to have any pictures you could email me? Ive read that the stock brakes arent big enough, is that why you went with the bigger ones? Did you cut off a Mustang II front end, or order one? Id appreciate any more help you can offer. trey
Here's mine with a TCI MII with the front cross member moved 1" like Old Beet said. Nice front wheel location and stance. Good luck.
The Jag is the call for clipping the frontend, a friend of mine just did one on a 52 F1. . He said it went in like it was made for it, he bought a whole car for $300.00 that was hit in the rear. He parted the car and made a profit and got to keep the suspension. Plus with the Jag you get independent frontend, with disc brakes, and a power steering rack that has a GM pump that bolts up to the 427 Big block he put in it. It is a win, win, win, deal. They are even showing up in the local Pick a Part yards. Just something to think about. CBB
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