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did some unbody work on my shoebox today

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57ford/60thunderbird, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. i got kinda bored today and decided to work on my shoeboxs hood i have put 51 upper grille bars on it so obviously since mines a 50 i have the half moon to fill and when i bought the car i could see obvious evidence of previous patch work on its edge and when i removed the hood emblem i could see the pretty pink bondo around its mounting holes .....yay

    so i started with a wirebrush on my drill right under where the emblem was the brush dug into the mud to almost a 1/4 inch until it found metal ... after determining where the out line of the mud was with my drill and realising the frutility of using the wire brush (on the pass side of the hood) i fired up the air compressor and the grinder much faster

    upon removing enough bondo for a couple of cars and then finding brazed in patches and some old lead work and wrinkled metal

    any who im not a big fan of typing (puncuation and all that crap)

    i took pics as i went soo ill let them do the talking

    the alternate title to this thread should be ( how not to do bodywork )
     

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  2. do you think it would be easier to fix this hood or just buy another one?
     

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  3. is a shoeboxes hood flat accross the front or does it curve uptoward the peak?
     
  4. ok all i know im no pro bodyman .....and im no certified welder im basically teaching myself as i go .....i have a lot to learn ...but, im trying

    id really appreciate your thoughts on how it looks ...

    but please dont harp on my bubblegum "welds" ....:D lol
     

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  5. The 50 hood may need to be straightened on the outer ends as it dips down. The 51 hood is straight across the bottom edge at the grille bars. Probably should have used a 51 hood with the 51 upper grille bars, but you are doing a good job of making the one you have work. Did you use the 51 hood latch panel as it is different than 50 as well. Pat
     
  6. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    Looks like it is coming along nicely. Bubble gum welds or not, the important issue is making sure you got good penetration into both panels your joining. The bubble gum gets ground off anyway.
     
  7. Jobe
    Joined: Oct 19, 2004
    Posts: 1,248

    Jobe
    Member
    from Austin, Tx

    It's a custom right? make it look like you want it to. Work looks good for your first time...keep it up!
     
  8. It looks like a pre 1980 fix with the brass welding before mig welders hit the mass market. I think i smell White Lightning to, lol. No, not moonshine.
    Good hoods can be a hard find. Yours can always be fixed again but maybe look for a nicer one. I wound up with a 51 hood on my 50. Can't seem to find a real nice 50 hood. 51's might be a harder find. I'd really like a 50 hood so i could go back to original 50 grille or better yet a 49 which is prettiest of them all.
     

  9. yes i used the 51 latch panel i think my car had been hammered hard on the driverside front at some point couldnt get that fender lined up anybetter i got my 51 grille bars off ebay seller didnt tell me and i didnt figure it out until i got them mounted that htye had been cut off where they go under the marking light housings
     
  10. moefuzz
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 4,950

    moefuzz
    Member

    Looks like you are making progress despite the big surprise....

    As others have said, the bubble gum gets ground off just make sure you have good penetration..

    And I would add, don't leave any pinholes 'cause that's where the next round of rust will start.
    -Bondo and/or paint/primer will not easily find its way into pin holes left over from the welding process.

    And leftover MiG pinholes will encapsulate small amounts of flux, in that flux is not only the oxidizing cleansing agents but also remnants of rust/dirt/oil/grinding disc particules etc as the flux's job is to float the impurities to the surface so Inside the pinhole, or rather on the hidden surfaces inside the holes will be all manner of things from acids to unburnt particles that will attach and attack the base metal.

    If you don't go back with the MiG (set nice and hot) to spot burn them out then those oxides etc will get trapped under your paint.

    If you stop and think about what oxides are or what happens when metal oxidizes you'll quickly figure out that oxidizing something means turning it back into it's base elements which in steels case is more or less rust.

    Other than that, keep up the good work...

    moe


    .,
     
  11. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    shinysideup
    BANNED
    from ruskin, fl

    Is the profile going to change this drastically? Would be nice to see the curve faired out.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. shiney side up could you please explain ? what curve?

    actually the slope on the front edge of the hood happened on accident it wasnt planned but i do kinda like it
     
  13. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    shinysideup
    BANNED
    from ruskin, fl

    It runs from a curve to an abrupt snowplow?? Take a flexible twig or whatever and spring it from where the emblem sits and the endpoint at the grill in a "fair" curve. Fair is a line that pleases the eye.
     
  14. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,387

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Looks good 51 hoods are getting really really hard to find worth a crap.A little trick on the hood makes a nice little deal is using 50 51 chevy front fender chrome to replace the original comes down to a nice point in the front just have to cut it about 3 inches off the back end and fits the hood perfect
     
  15. Gsnickets
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 164

    Gsnickets
    Member

    get that filler out and lead the thing. my whole fucking car is held together by bondo..... and every time I move to a different body panel I feel like punching someone.
     

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