I am going to be tearing down the 8ba I got from richardD here soon. Does anyone have a a list of the special tools (part numbers) / description needed in tearing / building a flat head? thanks Levi
If you get adjustable lifters...and you really should...you'll need the adjuster tools. I say tools as plural, 'cause they're mirror images of each other. One fits where the other won't. They aren't very expensive at all, but you'll need 'em to be able to adjust the valves after the engine is buttoned up except for the intake manifold. And if the heads won't come off easily, you'll want a putty knife or two to tap in between the block and head, and then some little wood or plastic wedges to further persuade the head to come off. Have fun.
I just used a regular C-arm valve spring compressor. If the valve guides are frozen in the block just use a cutoff wheel on the valve stem and pound the guides into the valley. 8BA should have one piece valve guides so the valves will slide right out. Earlier flatheads had mushroom shaped ends and couldn't be removed from the guide while it was in the bore. I have one of those prybar looking valve tools from Speedway and never used it. 8BA will have head bolts instead of studs IIRC. Removing frozen heads from studs is a bear. I welded the nuts onto the stud to back them out. Most important thing for tear down is patience and LOTS of penetrating oil.
Get a good detailed book on them , There was alot of ,How the F**K does this come out , when I took my first one apart last year, BTW the Iditarod front runners are on the home stretch, sorry I like dogpower and horsepower, Tim Jones
just moved this over from the thread that Cactus1 posted. The slide hammer just forces the valve assembly out by pushing against the block and the guide. The tool for removing the guide clip is a one use tool, to re-install there is a pry bar and you slip the clip in by hand. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=641652&page=3
with 8BA, assuming valve gear is going to be scrapped, you don't need anything special... Remove lower keeper ('49-50 and '51-53) different...valve can come out the top, you may need to debur grooves and base with a file. Yank spring out by the roots, then you can hammer down the guide with something like a socket and extension as a punch. You can reassemble new stuff without, but a valve bar would be nice for that. If all is totally rusted, more will be incolved...
This and a friend for that third hand with the valves, I also used just the C-arm valve compressor and a couple of screwdrivers for the keepers. I used the valve tool speedway sells to bend the spring out. Then a smaller than the valve seat (old) socket to hit the seat in
Stock springs are not very powerful, so if on the cheap you can pushemup to get out keeper with any sort of lever that will snag in there. If you are going to equip yourself, regualar flathead valve bar is great...a compressor is pretty formal for this job, again assuming the old valve gear is junk. Proper old geezer mechanics back then used to assemble the valve units by hand...though before installation in the block there is a bit less tension on them. With an 8BA, you will likely only lose a pint or so of blood on this job. With a '34-38, a quart is typical, and with '32-33 have 911 on speed dial and your blood type written on your forehead in magic marker.
That roller cam action clip puller is the best of the tools out there designed to yank the clip without pulling guide down...sometimes an advantage on late flatheads, probably always a big time saver on earlies. Once the clip is gone, you can go straight to the mighty KD C-clamp type guide puller, and you are through the job with little effort and probably no personal injuries. Other types either pryed from the little hole or punched against the little hole, giving substantial risk of just tearing the metal without any progress. I think only the punch type, a version of a KD design, are currently made. The KD puller is not available either... The slide hammer tool is of course not useful unless you have removed the clip. A similar tool with a screw ram in place of the banger is also out there. If you do everything by the book, prying down guide..removing clip...prying guide back up, you are looking at a long, bloody day.
When using the "old Ford pry bar", resist the temptation to stick it down the intake ports....There is one "how-To" item around, that shows this..... Those intake ports are easily broken ,...and while they are "fixable",...the job is a bit "pricey". I managed to pick up a couple of 59A blocks cheap. because of this.....After being sure of repairability. 4TRUK
another re-post from the other thread. Fortunately the mice didn't fill this one with pee but when I get the manifold off you will see most of the seat cushion. Not a lot of rust in this one, it's from a California field. <IFRAME height=315 src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/gB8w3AYE_Tc" frameBorder=0 width=420 allowfullscreen></IFRAME><!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________
This thread's got some pretty helpful info too: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=545243&highlight=nevala
Word to the wise: If you have never used those little 'tappet locks' to adjust the tappets, DON'T START NOW! Your back will want a divorce. When engine is determined to have a good block, drill a 3/16" hole in the side of each tappet bore from the valley...a 3/16" drift punch can be inserted into the HOLLOW BODY window of each tappet (use Johnson type) Adjustment can be performed with one hand, sliding the feeler gauge with the other.
Mike is right ! ! There's NO better way to go !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Those "Johnson" type are available almost anywhere,.... 4TTRUK
tools needed: a trailer or An engine hoist, and a small block chevy. History shows when the sbc came out so did the flatheads.
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