Projects Installing a push putton shifter Mopar

My question as well. I'd like to do this on a 727 that I have. Any part number or vehicle use info on that 4-bolt u-joint flange?

 

The Getrag 238 as used in the 2005-2008 Dodges have a similar flange arrangement at the trans, but, they also use a two-piece drive shaft...
So, yeah, what do the rest of your parts look like HemiRambler?
Inquiring minds and all that...

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Yes, Out of a newer Ford truck.

I've also used them out of the old Imperial 2 piece driveshaft, but those are like hen's teeth now. The Ford truck ones are dime a dozen.

Here's a pic of one just like mine:

 

cool; very cool.

is this a boneyard item or NAPA item?

if boneyard, is this from pickups with onepiece driveshafts, or long-bed pickups with 2 piece driveshafts?

kits to change over the B&T (from detroit inline and others) to traditional ball joints are pricey for those of us who are income challenged, but this looks doable. and if these slip joints were designed for trucks surely they would hold up to mild horsepower (400 +/-) in a very small car (crosley).

 

I paid Steve Charette of Imperial Services for a push button conversion (late 727 to 1964 push button shifter), no delivery in over 3 years!!! I don't live in MI, so he took the money and ran!

Every time I called he said 2 more weeks. Since last April 2011 there is no way to get a hold of a human, just leave a message and they never call back. $500 and my original push button shifter sent in - lost to Imperial Services!!!

I have gone to the trouble to get another pushbutton shifter off of ebay, and I think I can do the conversion myself. I am going to fab up my own cables from Pegasus (see the push-pull cable selection at the bottom of this page https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/2011/053.pdf)

If your interested let me know, and I will let you know what I have done so far, for FREE.

 

Back in time when the REAL Art Carr was running Arcadia Transmission, he built a hump mounted curved tube shifter that was squared off to take the early style cable "typewriter" .It was a full manual reversed valve body and guys used to use the bottom half of a zippo lighter to cover the "R" button. To shift into reverse,you had to swing the lighter body up . We ran a clutchflite in an early vette and used the tachmount from an old SK boat,mounted on the dash for the shifter housing. Hope this helps.Spence

 

That's cool! Any pictures?

 

I ran a push button set up in my 392 powered 34 , once it was set up it was no problem . Sometimes when I was racing (13's with 2:75 gears) i would be over zealous pushing the button from 1st to 2nd and the 3rd/drive button would fly out onto the floor !luckily only needed top if I had too much wheel spin off the line . I used a Land-Rover sliding joint very cheap this side of the pond .

 

Has any one tried A & A of Indiana for a pushbutton conversion kit?
I wanted to go with the Imperial one but they require you to send in your own control to modify. I've tried e-mail and phone but no response to either.
It's $400 for the Imperial and $160 for the one from A&A.
I have a 727 in a 56 Plymouth and I don't like look of the aftermarket floor shift that is in it now.

A&A Transmissions
5061 E N County Line Road
Camby, IN 46113

(317) 831-3066

 

old thread, but has anyone converted the pushbutton to a floor shifter of some kind?

 

You don't indicate what year you are dealing with, but if 62-64 then you will be time and money ahead to just use a 65 or newer trans.
This can also be done in earlier cars just different levels of difficulties to overcome.

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Push button Torqueflites are great transmissions.There are about 5 parts in the valve bodies of floor/column shift tf's that differ from push button models. They include the shift cable adapter, rooster comb, manual valve, n/s switch and the reverse blocker valve. It is not difficult to change back and forth but you must have all pieces to make it work correctly. This due to the fact that p/b cars had a seperate parking lever where on floor shift and column models one lever does it all. 727 and 904 valve bodies are interchangable. Converting a ball/trunion trans to a slip yoke involves changing the output shaft as well as the extension housing. These parts would have to come from a 65 trans which is a one year only trans. I have converted ball and trunion transmissions both autos and sticks to u joints using yoke 2882996 but obviously you will have to use a 2 piece drive shaft for expansion/travel requirments. Early torqueflites also had a front and rear pump which allows them to be push started. The early front pumps have a different spline count so it is advisable to upgrade to the later pump for more choices if you have an aftermarket convertor in mind. Hope this helps.

 

subscribed! & can i do a push button swap with a newer style tranny? {70-71,904}

 

...how much money can you throw at it?

If you need/want a 'button-flite then just find a 62-64, either small block or big block to suit you engine.

IIRC, as to the 904, there was a one-year-only PB 904. 1964 Dart/Valiant with 273.
Check in with the guys over at http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/ to be sure.

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I will vouch for A & A trans, they rebuilt the push button trans in my wife,s valiant, top notch work..... Rick Allison is the owner and a Ol School MOPAR guy, who has been building drag racing for some big name people for a long time...His shop is a must see...

 

Anyone have any pictures of the transmissions and the push button set up? thanks Joe

 

This site has a lot of good information on the push button set up.....
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html

This A & A trans web site....
http://www.aandatrans.com/

More info...
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html

 

Quick question guys, and sorry to divert the topic. I've got a 27 T with a 330 Desoto Hemi in it. It still has the cast-bodied transmission with the parking brake drum on the back and one cable coming out of the trans. (parking brake has another cable). I noticed that everyone is referencing the '62 and newer transmissions. Is there a reason for this? Are they more common or do they simply work better for most applications? Since mine is already hooked up to the engine, I know it fits.

What IS this beast?! Is it possible to install a slip-fit yoke? With the parking brake, I assume that it doesn't have a "Park" option? Would a D100 (dash) shifter work with this transmission? I was thinking of getting an adapter and using a newer transmission, but, if this is satisfactory, I COULD be convinced to go with the one I've already got.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

C5rider, I'll poke at a couple of your questions. First, if the car is running/driving why mess with it?

MotherMopar made several major design changes for the 1962 model year including the design of the bellhousing bolt pattern as well as the crankshaft flange. The 1962 v-8 was to gain the flexplate to drive the converter that the slant 6 started with in 1960. So, yes, the 1962 TF is the 'modern' design; more changes occured along the way and 1967 was the start of the high-performance 727.
Prior to 1962 all 'A' series engines and the Hemi engines shared the same bell and crank flange designs.

If your trans is a 2-speed the it is likely a PowerFlite.
As noted in previous posts, you could bolt a u-joint flange to the existing trunion flange but changing to a 'normal' slip yoke is not practical. If you want a slip yoke and a cable shifter then you need a 1965 trans and a trans adapter.

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thanks 73RR. Well, the car isn't driving right now so, anything I do would be in attempt to get it driving. Right now it's a 50/50 deal. It could go either way and I'm just trying to decide which way to go. Remember, I HAVE the trans mounted to the engine already, I'd just need to rebuild it and get the necessary cables and shifter. OR, I could go with the trans adapter and a newer transmission. And get the necessary aftermarket shifter, etc. Just trying to decide which way would be the simplest, coolest, most reliable and of course, $$$-less-est!

thanks.

 

IMHO, the best long term solution would be a late 727. No issues/hassles getting parts or to have someone do a rebuild if you need to send one out. Not alot of shops interested in working on a 50 year old trans...

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I have a 64 4-speed (A-833) out of a Barracuda with the ball and trunion end. I also have the driveshaft side. I plan to use that in my 30 Model A behind my 354 hemi when I finally get around to that project. I also have an 8.75 Sure Grip that will be turning the rear wheels.

 

Thanks Dr. Fishstein, that's what I wanted to know.
Apparently Imperial has some issues or something.

 

If you need anything else, I have other resources........

 

Not sure if you did the math on this, but 1962 - the year the aluminum torqueflite came to be was 50 years ago . . . just sayin

 

Math? we don't need no stinkin math!
...sometimes I have trouble dealing with just how old, 'things' (including me) get to be...so delete '50' and insert '55', or '60' or ......

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OK this is some of the information that was looking for 6 months or so ago. I want to up date my 56 Dodge Lancer with a Trans out of a 62 Chrysler and a 383 out of a 64 Ply. sport Fury.
Are you saying that because the trans is 50 years old and kind of by it self that it shouldnt be done? I want to retain my pushbuttons in my dash. I know that the trans that I have now is a 2 speed. They made a 3 speed auto that they put in 57 to 59 Dodge trucks. this push button unit is the same shape as the unit on my 56 Dodge.
When you say that its $$$ what $$$$ are we talking about?