After a run hours my rebuilt 239 flathead is bleeding coolant from around both heads. Is this a common issue and needs retorqued or is it more serious? some say yes others say no. I need good news. It only leaks when it cooled down. And still has great compression.
Yes retorque it. You did use the correct torque pattern/sequence when you torqued the heads the first time???? I think it is the norm rather than the exception to retorque flathead heads. Although most "experts" say torquing the heads in two or three increments is fine I have found that I run into less trouble if I do more and smaller increments when torquing any heads. It takes a bit longer and is a bit more tedious but seems to help eliminate problems later.
Did you lay a straight edge across them before installing them? Unless you had them resurfaced they may be just a bit warped.
Make sure your torque wrench is accurate. I had your problem, and the cause was the clicker type torque wrench giving me a very incorrect too-low torque.
Ill try the retorqued method. As far as i know the guy that rebuilt it which i trust did it to his best of knoledge. I know he followed the bolt pattern and even sealed some of the bolts. As far as being warped. God i hope not. Hopefully this can be fixed with a little turn of the old fashion wrench.
I always use a good pipe sealer and head studs kit on my 8ba's. I also use a small amount of block sealer of some sort like solder seal or bars leak just for security. after break in I drain all breakin fluids and replace them. Then I add antifreeze and watter pump lube as needed just use caution in winter time, dont want that puppy to freeze...
I hear ya. There no leaking from bolts just outer edges. Im sure a retorque will fix it. This is first restoration and alot of things im finding out the hard way. Ill know next time..
Even the stock heads can warp, I had to have mine milled. If you can't get them to stop leaking, you might have to do that. It's not that expensive, just a pain to take it all back apart.