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bleeding heads

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brd52f2, Jan 24, 2012.

  1. brd52f2
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 21

    brd52f2
    Member
    from white, ga.

    After a run hours my rebuilt 239 flathead is bleeding coolant from around both heads. Is this a common issue and needs retorqued or is it more serious? some say yes others say no. I need good news. It only leaks when it cooled down. And still has great compression.
     
  2. young'n'poor
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,281

    young'n'poor
    Member
    from Anoka. MN

    Retorque and go from there. Just out of curiousity, are they used aluminum heads?
     
  3. brd52f2
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 21

    brd52f2
    Member
    from white, ga.

    No. They are as iron as is gets
     

  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,984

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes retorque it. You did use the correct torque pattern/sequence when you torqued the heads the first time????

    I think it is the norm rather than the exception to retorque flathead heads.

    Although most "experts" say torquing the heads in two or three increments is fine I have found that I run into less trouble if I do more and smaller increments when torquing any heads. It takes a bit longer and is a bit more tedious but seems to help eliminate problems later.
     
  5. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Retorque when cool.
    My head bled for a couple weeks, but I had just had a tumour removed!
     
  6. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,984

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did you lay a straight edge across them before installing them? Unless you had them resurfaced they may be just a bit warped.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2012
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,524

    alchemy
    Member

    Weeping around the outside edge, or from the studs/bolts?
     
  8. AJofHollywood
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 641

    AJofHollywood
    Member

    Make sure your torque wrench is accurate. I had your problem, and the cause was the clicker type torque wrench giving me a very incorrect too-low torque.
     
  9. brd52f2
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 21

    brd52f2
    Member
    from white, ga.

    Ill check in to it. Thanks
     
  10. brd52f2
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 21

    brd52f2
    Member
    from white, ga.

    Ill try the retorqued method. As far as i know the guy that rebuilt it which i trust did it to his best of knoledge. I know he followed the bolt pattern and even sealed some of the bolts. As far as being warped. God i hope not. Hopefully this can be fixed with a little turn of the old fashion wrench.
     
  11. I always use a good pipe sealer and head studs kit on my 8ba's. I also use a small amount of block sealer of some sort like solder seal or bars leak just for security. after break in I drain all breakin fluids and replace them. Then I add antifreeze and watter pump lube as needed just use caution in winter time, dont want that puppy to freeze...
     
  12. brd52f2
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 21

    brd52f2
    Member
    from white, ga.

    I hear ya. There no leaking from bolts just outer edges. Im sure a retorque will fix it. This is first restoration and alot of things im finding out the hard way. Ill know next time..
     
  13. Groovybaby6
    Joined: Dec 29, 2008
    Posts: 810

    Groovybaby6
    Member
    from Denver

    Even the stock heads can warp, I had to have mine milled. If you can't get them to stop leaking, you might have to do that. It's not that expensive, just a pain to take it all back apart.
     

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