Hey folks? What is YOUR way of cutting these factory mounting pads.. I am trying to cut the pads so I can put the springs under the axle??? I am using a cut off wheel but it feels dangerous dont want a disc to explode in me face.
Plasma will work and probably work better than the disk. If you are going to reuse them cut as close to the axle as you can without cutting the axle. I bought a full face shield at the welding shop to use with the grinder or cutting disks. It has saved more than one trip to the eye doc and keeps chunks of cutting disks and metal out of my beard.
I was wandering what the heat would do to the housing,thanks for clarifying. I have safety glasses but NowI am going to get a full face shield since I want to keep me precious beard... I been to the eye doctor (first time welding with a buzz box,the doc also removed 5 little pieces of metal out of them.
Get a cutoff disc and cut through the spring pad right next to the weld. Go just deep enough to cut through the pad. After doing both sides of each pad you'll be able to hit the pad with a hammer and they will fall off. Now, take a regular grinding disc and remove the weld. This will put little heat into the housing resulting in no warpage. Frank
This is the method I use. You will be left with a perfectly usable pad that sits correct on the axle.
Ok thanks for the very helpful tips.. Can I buy these pads at any auto parts stores or speed shops only thanks
If you have a plasma just cut them off about a quarter inch or so away from the housing, then grind it smooth. I just did that a while back on an 8 incher and it took all of 15 minutes and was safer than using a cut off wheel IMO. Speedway sells a pair of them, part number 545-85090 for $ 12.99 a pair. Not worth messing with the old ones for that kind of money. Don
Thanks I need to get hooked to 50 amps so my plasma works better but I will try. Thanks Don. This is for a 3/4 ton axle so I dont know If I could use them pads from speedwy,,what do you think?
I usually just run a line through the weld with a thin cutoff wheel then smack them with a BFH and they pop right off... last pair I chopped off a '36 dodge front tube axle didn't even need the cutoff wheel! I thought "those factory welds look pretty wimpy..." barely bumped them with the hammer and they fell off, scary!!
BE CAREFUL with that plasma cutter. If you get greedy trying to cut through the weld, you're likely to have some really nasty gouges to weld up in the tubes...
when I started i used a sawzall for enerything. lennox blades, take your time, lube the blade, and try to use the whole blade.
use a hand grinder with a cut off wheel cut through the weld ,hit with a big hammer it should pop off.the prep area where your welding to as well as removed mounts.if your having trouble removing them are you sure you can remount them properly.ive seen rearends come loose and it can be ugly.safety first
I didnt really try to get the off yet... I still have to cut more,it just seem a little bit dangerous doing it with a COW. I will not be welding the pads,someone else will be doing it.
If the axle tubes distort due to the welds, just run a similar weld bead around the opposite side of the axle to even out the shrinkage - you can get away with grinding the bead off flush afterwards.
I use a torch but I take my time to prevent warping the axle tube. There were no plazma cutters and only the rich had Sawz-alls when I started. I cut an inch or 2 on one side and then move to the other side. I go do something else in the shop while it cools. Then another inch or 2. Etc.etc. I've never had one warp this way. If you try to do the whole job in one sitting heat can build up and cause a problem especially on the Nova rears and some 9" Fords with their huge pads and bracing. I let the axle cool before grinding for the same reason. Grinding can add a lot of heat too. Don't be in a hurry and you'll be fine. IMHO
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