Hello again all. Hope everyone had a good holiday. I was wanting to know if anyone is familiar with the ford 302. Figured I would start here and if no one knows then head to the mustang forums. Im wanting to know a rough estimate of horsepower and torque I have in mine. I know its nothing super but still like to know out of curiosity. So if anyone thinks they might know let me know please. Here's what I know about her. This is what the man I bought it from sent to me exactly. I think he had the intake twice. I really dont know much engine stuff. 1992 Ford 5.0L(302 cubic inch) forged stock rods pistons. Heads 1975 351 windsor heads with roller rockers arms 1.6 ratio comp cams brand adjustable. Cam = Eldebrock performer rpm 302 hydraulic flat tappet -with lifters new 2007 IIntake = Eldebrock performer rpm alum intake. used bought at a swap meet. Carb= Holley 600 cfm electric choke vacuum secondaries If anyone has input I greatly appreciate some help. Like I said I dont know to much about the motor or motors in general but I gotta start somewhere. Thanks all Aaron
Those '75 windsor heads are just 302 units with 1/2 inch bolt holes. 1.78 intake valves, 1.48 exhaust. I'm thinkin' more like 200-250 @flywheel.
Go with GT-40 heads and use your present exhaust system. end up about 9.5 comp ratio and you will be happy.
In my experience. Bolt on ain't bolt on. But with that said... Depends on the aluminum heads you pick out. I went with afr 185's. Lovem. 351 windsor, afr's, comp roller valve train high 12's in quarter and 20 mpg. Like i said. .. Lovem
Ford production heads are their weak point. I'd go back to a roller cam the friction power loss with the flat tappet might make for a net HP loss.
Might take some abuse here but im gonna be making a set of zoomies for the car. So right now I dont have any exhaust just yet. I have to just for the way it sits with the frame. Cant just buy a set of headers. So still the gt heads? Or go with aluminum?
Well, you have a roller cam motor there with a flat tappet cam in it, so I would take advantage of the ability to put a roller cam in there and go with something like a Ford Racing 303 series cam, maybe even an X303 if you have a stick or high stall convertor. Yes, aluminum heads like the Edelbrocks are a direct bolt on and can wake up a 302 pretty well. There are other heads more preferred by the hardcore 5.0 guys, but the Edelbrocks are a good head for the money and very streetable. If you stick with the flat tappet cam you can go with the Edelbrock E Street heads, but if you go with a roller cam you will have to go with the Edelbrock Performer RPMS. You can probably use your existing roller rockers depending on what stud size they are made for. The Edelbrock heads come ready to install the roller rockers on. You will need shorter pushrods if you go roller cam. But I would try the combo you have already, it might surprise you. Don
They didn't start using 302 heads on 351s untill '77. The 75 heads have 1. 84/1.54 valves & 60.4CC chambers. The stock '75 302 heads had 58.2 so he lowered his C/R with the 351 heads but increased the valve size.
Yuppers. I ran 351W heads all the time back in the day. They arent great, in stock form under [email protected], but better than the 302 stuff. But if you are putting zoomies on it, I'll revise my guess down to about 225 at the flywheel. And it really doesnt matter what head you are using if you are willing to leave 50 some odd hp on the table...
There quite a few different heads out there that can wake up the sbf.. We've been playing with foxbody stangs for about 10 years now, and our original experiment was a 91 5.0. Stock block/bottom end with steel Dart Windsor Jr. heads, Trick Flow Stage 1 cam and a 76 mm Turbo put us deep into the 10's at almost 140 mph. Engine was a freak for sure!! We like the aluminum AFR 185's for "out of the box" street use. Along with Trick Flow, Comp and Anderson also make very good "out of the box" cams for the little ford...I have Edelbrock Victor Jr heads/intake on my F-1 Pro Charger 331... Again, there many different combo's out there that will make you a happy camper.. Here's a "not Hamb friendly" pic of my little Ford.. I'm hoping to build either a 32 or 34 Salt flat style coupe in the future, and this engine will be in it.. Bill
For heads you have two options, cast iron Ford or aluminum. The best Ford head is the GT-40P head from the 90's Exploders/Mountaineers. The GT-40P's do not have any emissions plumbing. If you want to go the way of aluminum heads, then anything will be better than a cast head, but I have heard good things about the AFR's, as well as the Trick Flow's. As far as the cam, you have a roller block, so I would go with a roller cam like a Trick Flow Stage 1 or a Ford Racing E303. That intake being a dual plane will be good for a mild engine, and will work well with a good set or heads and a mild cam. A 600-650 CFM carb will work good for this combo.
Once you said you were going to run zoomies on it, taking you seriously about making power went out the window, y'know? Might as well just run it, as you're only going cruisin' anyway- just drive it and have fun
Depending on what cam is in the engine you will have about a 275 to 300 hp engine at the flywheel and about 230 to 240 at the rear wheel . If it runs good then I would leave it alone ! If I have my choice on heads , I would search the salvage yards for a good set of GT 40 heads off Mustang Cobra . They are great heads if you open them up some . Now if I have the money and was looking into buying a set of alum . heads then I would buy a sweet set of AFR heads . The 185's are a great street size head . Ford make some good roller cams . The F303 cam is a good street/strip cam that will go very well with the AFR 185 heads . It has around a .515 lift . An Edelbrock dual plane intake is a good intake for that set up along with a Holley 600 to 650 DP . Now if you want a hot street/race engine , then get a set of reworked GT40 heads or AFR 205 heads with a Vic Jr. intake , Holley 750 DP and a Comp Cam with a ,550 lift . Then get a 331 or 347 forged stroker kit bottom end . Have the block bored .030 and that will give you a very healthy engine with lots of torque and HP ! That will get you in the 450+ HP range . Built one not long ago and was in a Mustang . Low 10's with a C4 and 4.10 rear . But in the end HP costs $$$$ . the more you want the more you pay . Personally if you are happy with the engine you have now , then leave it alone ! I would ask the guy about the cam card so you can get the cam specs . As for Zoomies or headers just remember this , the bigger the exhaust the better the air flow . Problem with that is you loose all the low end torque . So for a street engine it's best you use nothing bigger than a 2.5" exhaust . 2.25" exhaust will be better for low end torque for a street engine . Retro Jim
"They didn't start using 302 heads on 351s untill '77. The 75 heads have 1 84/1.54 valves & 60.4CC chambers. The stock '75 302 heads had 58.2 so he lo C/R with the 351 heads but increased the valve size." I stand corrected. Sorry about the misinformation. Thanks George for settin' me straight. They say if you dont learn something new everyday. It is a waisted day.
Alloy heads conduct heat(power) out of the chambers better than iron, so you need to raise your C/R 1 point to compensate.
OK this is going to piss someone off, at least I hope so. Look up a 1992 Ford 5.0L and find out what ford said that it made stock off the show room floor. With your mods that is probably what it is making now. Ford had a tendency to over rate their engines during that era.
1992 Mustang EFI was rated at 225HP - certainly NOT over rated for the power they made!!! If you are seriously going to run Zoomies, it doesn't matter what you do as you are throwing all the power out the window anyway. And personally I'd stay away from P heads, only because they take unique headers and flanges (of course if you are making Zoomies that won't matter)
It's occured to me that I compared '75 351 heads to '75 302 heads, not the 91 heads that came on the car, don't know what chamber size the 91s had, so C/R might be higher or lower than stock...
I am building a .030 over 302 right now. Well not so much building as going through and checking it. I am putting a mild cam in it 262/272, it will be in a daily driver truck that will still be used as a truck. I was lucky when I got it and got a fresh set of GT40 heads with it along with some Comp Cams roller rockers. I will be putting a Weiand intake with a 600 cfm carb on it soon. With a 5 speed, it should run well and still be lots of fun when I want. Not sure what to expect at the rear wheels...
The 303 cams are for ford making money at the dealerships,get a good cam,ultradyne is very good place to start for ford cams,they make very good power,But don't believe everything,old shelby won everything all over the world with a solid lift flat tappet engine,& a 289 at that..The 351 heads are not as good as the gt40 & gt40p's,stay away from the cheap proform aluminum heads.I have seen 3 different sets of them drop valves,afr & trick flow are the standard best,big power will be a set of 351 cleveland 2 barrel iron aussie heads,with a street boss intake.,But non of this information matters unless you buy a good set of headers,header companys spend lots of money & time on flow benches & dyno time to make an engine breath,backpressures,flow rates,ect....they know what works.ZOOMIES on that engine don't.
True, but Ultradyne has been out of business for a long time now. Bullet has all the old Ultradyne profiles. But with zoomies, theres only ONE right cam choice...Comp cams Thumpr'
The Jalopy Journal
