ok mopar guys, i need your help... i have a 54 savoy with a flat 6 and a 3 speed manual. the engine is tired and needs to go this winter. i would love to put a sbm 318 or 360 in it to keep it mopar. and i know where a couple "runners" are. i have stock steering/ suspension. is there anybody out there that makesan adapter to use a sbm to my stock 3 speed? i think it would be cool to keep it, even though it os probably light duty. i am a chevy guy who is fighting temtation...
QuickTime makes one, it's the whole bellhousing, and it is expensive as hell, upwards of $600, if I recall correctly... Nice car, I almost bought one just like it down in Kentucky, but I had no way to get it home at the time, still kicking myself over that one...
thanks AKA Kustoms, i checked tem out, but they seem to be for 56 only. what is the difference. what would be the make of my original 3-speed?
Probably the best way for you to do the swap is to go with a complete 318/3 speed or automatic unit rather than try to adapt to what you have. The one thing that traditionally you have to do when transplanting that engine into the early chassis is off set the motor to the passenger side of the car by an inch and a half or so. This is done on early plymouths to provide clearance for the left exhaust manifold to clear the steering column. There is only one place where this engine will fit correctly, and it won't be in line with the original trans. I have done several '48 type Plymouths with this swap, but not a later one without going to a Mustang II and other front frame work. As far as I know, the front frame on yours is basically the same. I'm not sure the shift linkage could be reworked to serve the later trans omn your '53, I know it can't with the earlier car. The auto might be the better way to go.
Cheap to expensive= Put the word out locally for a good used flatty. Get yours redone cheap. Do a swap half way. A full swap requires engine/trans/driveshaft/rear axle with e-brake. Since all of this is a lot of parts to gather and work to install, some people will only do some. They usually stop at the front of the driveshaft. This leaves you with a weak axle and no e-brake on a car with a single master and old brakes. Not good. Do a high quality rebuild on the flatty, adding speed parts. Do a full swap. Prices will vary depending on what kind of deals you can get and what work you can do. Farming out work adds up quick.
Reading between the lines it sounds like you are looking for a quick easy cheap way to get your car back on the road. Swapping in a V8 isn't it. Your car is one of the harder ones to do an engine swap on, because it was never designed for a V8. Ironically, if your car was just one year newer it would be easier because the 55 was designed for a V8. The quick easy cheap way out is to rebuild your old six. It is one of the easier engines to rebuild and parts are available and not too expensive. There is a site called Vintage Power Wagons that has the parts you need. The old Power Wagon used the same motor. Many parts are available from your local parts stores like NAPA etc. You may not even need a full rebuild. If your oil pressure is good and the cylinders don't need truing, you may get away with a ring and valve job. Grind in the valves, hone the cylinders, replace the rings and you are good to go for another 30,000 miles.
thanks guys, all super good and usefull info. i price around on rebuilding the 6er for sure. we have long winters here, and i may do a v8 swap if i can find a running car to get all the stuff i need. thanks again
if your flathead is in running condition now do a "in frame" overhaul with rings,bearings and oil pump. used to do that all the time and with total sucess.
55 dude not a bad idea if i have the pan removal clearance. quick and easy. hopefully i dont need any boring!
So I got the engine running pretty good minus a puff of smoke when decelerating. I have been looking for another runner, but most seem to be older engines out of trucks. Are they different? Someone said measure the head. Is that the difference between a 230 and the 218?
The 201-208-218 are the same physical size as the 230 and all are the so-called 23" engines. The 25" engines are, not surprisingly, 2" longer than the 23" and are the DeSoto and Chrysler variants. There is a 218 version of the 25" but you won't likely bump into one. The 25" are easily swapped if you can push everything upfront 2" forward. Back to the 218 vs 230 swap, the only problem area is the flywheel...you must use a 201-208-218 flywheel. If you use a 230 flywheel you will have starter engagement issues. Background: the crank flange on the 'little' guy measures right at 1" from face of the block to the (flywheel) face of the flange; all of the other engines are at 1.185" m/l. .
Thanks 73RR,i wish I knew mopar better. I am totally open for a sbm-manual combo swap if you come across any.
If you haven't already read through Pete's project this is a good time to do it: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360864 .
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