Quick issue- 2004R stalls in gear

Just got the engine running again with the new 2004R behind it. I'm pretty certain I have the TV cable set up correctly, or at least at a good starting point. The line is taught and reaches the end of its travel at WOT. Anyway, the engine runs fine in park or neutral, but as soon as I drop it into any gear, it stalls immediately.

Now it DOES have a lockup converter installed, BUT I haven't even plugged it in yet, so I don't understand how it could be locked up and causing this problem.

Any thoughts?

 

Shorted or stuck torque converter solenoid.

That would be my guess.

 

+1 on the lockup solenoid. Just had this issue with my ot daily.

 

Some trans builders modify the valve body for "automatic" tcc engagement with no solenoid. Supposed to engage at a certain speed and rpm. If engines dies as soon as you go to drive that converter clutch is locked in. peace

 

Jack up the back and see what happens?

 

Thanks for the replies. This is a fresh rebuilt transmission with a new lockup converter. Thing is, I don't see how it could be in lockup if I haven't given it 12v? Unless its a NORMALLY locked solenoid?!

 

if it is stuck/defective, it could cause the convertor to be locked. Why not terminate(wire) the solenoid and see what happens then?

 

I'd be suspect that the Tranny is causing the problem unless I knew the motor recient history. Did it run fine prior to removing the tranny? What are the chances you caused a major Vac leak while working on it? Check the power booster Vac hose if you have one. If everything points to the new tranny I'd remove the converter to flywheel bolts slide the converter back and fire the motor. I would want the motor idle around 600-800 pending what it is with a crisp off idle response. I'd also have my Vac gauge on the motor to see whats going on there. I've had converter issues with 700-r4's and never had them stall a motor when dropped in gear.
The Wizzard

 

i would check for a vacuum leak also,i'm with pist on that.........

 

Ok I gave it 12v and it had no effect on it. Still stalls as if you were dropping a clutch too fast. As for a vacuum leak, I've looked over the motor three times and can't find where it could be leaking from. I just rebuilt it, so I've been all over it buttoning it up :/ Don't think I missed anything...

Gee I hope something's not wrong internally I'll call the builder on Monday.

 

If the switch is bad,the usually fail locked up,12v makes no different

 

if by chance,did you just have the motor rebuilt since you put the new trans in,if so you could have a intake manafold leak,ran the motor and spray the intake runners with starting fliud,if the rpms go up vacuum leak

 

Good idea, I'll give it a try. I rebuilt it myself, and this was my first time, so I may have screwed something up. I followed David Vizard's book pretty much word-for-word though.

 

solenoid should be hot (12v) line presure thru tcc at all times when called for lock up solenoid de energizes closeing the build up in pressure aplies tc clutch giving 1 to 1 drive

 

What kind of converter ?? Vigilante ???

 

Its a 2000RPM lockup. Not sure of brand. Cam is a Comp 268H. Specs here: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=15&sb=2 I don't think it's too much for the converter.

 

I'm pretty sure the TCC solenoid is normally open. It vents the fluid.

When energized it blocks the fluid and move the apply valve.

 

If you had to follow a book to get through a rebuild my advice is to go back to page 1 and check everything you touched. It's the simple things we assume are OK that get us in trouble. My money is still on the motor. I've found many a Carb, spacer, manifold combination not to be compatable with major vacuum leaks. Also countless vacuum ports not plugged as needed. Like I say, it's generally the simple things.
The Wizzard

 

Is it PINK in color ??? oh your 20 min away from me !! Does it have the wrong valve in the front pump ??

 

its not the converter, its some kind of vacuum leak,had the same problem,wrong intake gasket

 

I just stumbled into a post where you had some broken rocker studs. You weren't sure what caused that problem form what little bit I read. It also sounded like you were taking some body else's word that the motor was healthy and had a few K miles on it. So just for kicks how about you do a compression check on the 2 cyl that had the broken studs and see what you have there. There is a chance that a valve may have met a piston to help with the broken studs. That's going to give you a serious Vacuum leak at the least.

 

Pist n broke, how would a valve kissing a piston cause a vacuum leak?

For the rest of the vacuum leak theorists, he said the engine runs fine in park and neutral, and then when he puts it in gear stalls as if you were dropping a clutch too fast. I don't think that a vacuum leak would make the engine stall that quickly.

This is his first transmission build, so any number of things amiss in the trans or converter could cause the lockup converter to be engaged or stuck, causing exactly what he is describing.

 

well ebb,if it is a vacuum which i think it is, it will stall when you put in gear, not a little vacuum hose but a major leak like a intake gasket it will stall the motor it happened to me,

 

Just had a 200-4R built for wifes 50 and builder said he fixed it so lockup would only be in 4th gear and only if I turned on a toggle switch he wired up for it. It's my understanding that it is possible for converter lockup in all gears based on his comments about forgetting to turn his switch off on one of his early builds and stalling the engine on a freeway off ramp, hence his preference for 4th gear lockup only.

 

Quote; Pist n broke, how would a valve kissing a piston cause a vacuum leak?

Have you ever seen an Intake valve seat after a piston drives a valve head into it? So I'll admit here that I have not read everything this poor Bloke has posted about his problem. It sounds like a lot of First time doing it which I applaud, how else do you learn? If this fella was close enough for me to go help I'd be there in a flash, however, since it's beginning to sound like I don't know Squat I'll just step out so as not to add to his confusion. Sorry for pitching in only half loaded with the facts.
The Wizzard

 

I may be wrong but I don't believe a 200R can be locked in first gear. Second, third and fourth yes. Most just do fourth

 

it can't BUT there was a problem with "Vigilante " converters that would work fine till ya put it in drive. It would stall the motor.

 

Yes, I have, and I still don't see how that causes a vacuum leak. All that will do is cause a pulsing in the intake, as the piston moves up and down in the damaged cylinder, and corresponding rough running.

There are two paths for a vacuum leak in the scenario of valve damage resulting from a kiss. One would be if the crown of the piston was broken out when it kissed the valve, so that the other seven cylinders could draw air from the crankcase, up through the broken piston, and through the damaged intake valve into the manifold. The other would be for a short burst every time the exhaust valve opened and created a path for gas from the exhaust, through the chamber of the damaged cylinder, and into the intake manifold.

If this were the case, it probably wouldn't run in park and neutral as good as he says it does.

 

Hey all,

I talked to transmission builder today. And it turned out to be for the worse... After giving him the rundown, he determined that the transmission was assembled incorrectly,something about the wrong valve that actuates the converter (I think you are right Sleeper_6), soooooo I had to pull it out and send it back to him. The builder, Chris, was very apologetic, and as expected, immediately offered to pay for shipping both ways. What a pain in the ass though.

Also, to answer some of your questions, the converter is steelie grey in color, and the transmission was built for 4th gear only lockup.

I also tried what someone said about spraying starter fluid all around the intake runners and base of the carb. Fortunately it didn't make the motor rev up any.

 

Also, pist-n-broke, you are right. This is my first go round at many things we're talking about, so I appreciate all of your input. After discovering those broken studs, I tore the motor down to just a short block, and carefully inspected everything. There was no valve-to-piston contact. The bottom end looked fine, and the heads were clean, so I just de-carbonized everything and put it back together with new gaskets and such.

Thanks