i have a 322 nailhead in my model A with a 3.73 rear (50 ford) and a 52 for truck 3spd. toploader. i put her all together over the summer and haven't been on any long trips other than around 10 miles around the house every couple of days. It works great just cruising around. However, it tends to boil over if i cruise at too high of RPM for too long. i'm using the stock model A radiator, i had it boiled out and pressure tested, all good. i also put a catch can on to see if that would help any. It seemed fine, then today while out on a back road i got into it with an 80's Firebird for a couple miles. i let up, turned around and headed back home and out of no where the small hole in my catch can started spraying radiator fluid EVERYWHERE. guess she was full! Any body have any luck running their nailheads with the stock Model A radiator? Suppose i could add a whole new section to the existing radiator? i'd hate to pay 500$ for a new one but just might have to. Suggestions! Thanks everyone
I don't think the stock rad. is gonna do it. It hasn't even been hot out yet. What's it going to do when it's 90+ with ugly humidity? Besides, you'll need to cool it good and go to the BSC thing at Norwalk and flog it down the 1320!
That's correct, that's where the problem comes into play. With out 14-16lbs. of pressure, the Nailhead a speed will develop higher temps that need to be controlled by a pressure system.
Grumpy, you bet! Did your hear about July 22 at Dragway 42 yet?? my band's playing, it's the "1st annual rock n' rods run at Dragway 42". i'll send ya info if you need it! AHotRod...yeah, i thought about that. it doesn't seem to be "boiling" though. my temp gauge reads just slightly above normal. i ordered a 6 blade fan today instead of my 4 to pull more air through, i'll look through Mac's or the like for a pressurized cap. those A radiators have a different cap than most. couldn't hurt to try. If that fails, i'm forced i think to look for a new radiator. Anyone had any luck with adding onto the existing radiator core?
Yeah, I know of the show. Email me a printable flyer so I can show my buds. I think that's the weekend before Blue Suede Cruise. We're all going to be there too. We camp all weekend there.
ace,go to the parts store and buy a 65 mustang 4 core radiator. It will fit your A shell. I'm build a 27 t with a 401 /sp 400 and thats what I'm going to do. They are $150.00 across the counter.TP
that's funny TP that you mention that, i just heard a '66 will fit form someone just before i read this. how do they look? i guess at this point that's the last thing i should worry about.... Ever heard of using one of those "Heavy Duty" 8 core radiators they sell out of Snyder's and Mac's model A catalogs? With that Mustang rad. i guess i'll have to take it up to the radiator shop to have them put the supports and bottom mounts on then, eh? Thanks a lot for all the info! Hey Grumpy, i'll send you over that flyer ASAP! Some guys from the Chrome Czars out in Chi-town are probably heading this way. having a "camp out" the night before Dragway 42 at my place. i live in the country, lots of yard space for cars and bodies...living ones that is. -a
A 15# cap doesn't control temps per se. It raises the boiling point to 257 degrees F. My local radiator shop recommended going to a 7# cap on my 32's Walker 4 core radiator that was built in 1985. It works fine and the boiling point is about 235 degrees F. now. The engine runs 182 degrees most days and will touch on 188 degrees on a hot summer day in traffic and on the long desert highways where I live. What kind of timing figures are you running? Is air coming around the side of the radiator and not through it? Air will take the path of least resistance. You can put your own brackets on a radiator with solder, flux and a propane torch....
Before you change the core try this: Put a restrictor in the top hose, any type of plug that has a smaller hole in it then the hose ID. Start with 1 inch and go bigger or smaller from there. The problem may be that at high speed the Buick water pump moves more water than can flow through the A core by gravity, so it goes out the overflow into the catch can. If you had a presure system it would be forced through the core by pressure and have to blow the cap before it would overflow. I had this happen on a 1932 Hubmobile 8 I had. I finally figured out that at speed, the water was going out the overflow until there wasn't enough left in the radiator to cool the engine and it would then overheat. After I put a restrictor in the top hose it worked like it should and ran cool at any speed. Brian
Ace I have a 30 Tudor running a 327sbc with an new radiator american radiator I believe. Temps have never raised above 180 in traffic and in hot summer weather. I know 500 bucks is a lot of money, but I picked mine up at pomona(big swap meet for 250). Very much worth it. How much over heating can an engine take before 500 bucks for a radiator turns in to 2500 bucks for an engine rebuild. Good luck
yeah, after nulling it over i forked over the dough to get myself a new one. should be here in a couple days. Ever wonder what radiators were used back "in the day", before all these super fancy racing radiators we can just buy through places like Speedway?
I know this is an old thread but if anyone is following it here is a response that might help: Skip Haney From Florida makes a pressure relief valve that fits onto the overflow tube on these setups. It's set at 3 pounds. This both increases the boil point and saves coolant by holding in the coolant during minor heating from expansion or pressure generated by waterpumps at higher speeds. Contact Skip Haney 941-637-6698 day or 941-505-9085 nites. [email protected] Skips valves are one way. Normally designed to be used on the old style radiator necks. These necks have the overflow tube in the neck at a point which pressurized caps can not reach. The valve is clamped right onto the end of the overflow tube and maintains the 3 pound pressure within the system. Open systems can loose more coolant during high speed runs at 60-65 mph for long distances due to the higher waterpump flow rate and not necessarily from overheating. The pressurized system with the valve should stop the excessive overflow of an open system.
What do you run for exhaust and what size nailhead? I have a walker rad for a 34 chevy in mine with a no presure cap and runs 165 all day and 195 in traffic at a outside temp of 90+ . I tried to quiet my car down and run dual 2 inch 36 inch glass packs and it run hot on the highway so i went back to 3 1/2 9 inch glass packs.
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