I don't know a lot about ignition systems. When i bought my car it was running and just left well enough alone. Well, 3 years later I use this dwell meter that came in a box of stuff i bought to check dwell. It's at 56*. I adjust to within spec 40*. It feels like it has more power and it starts really quickly/ easy now. Am I imagining the more power feel? Also, it sounds different in third. I don't have a timing light yet but i hooked up a vacuum gauge and it's at about 22 in/hg. I loosened distributor bolt and tried to turn it a little to see if it go better. It woulnd't turn much and it felt like i got a little shock so i quit with that. What's next? timing? Scott
No you were not imagining it ,proper dwell is VERY important to engine preformance. Now set the timing and your good to go!
If you changed the dwell the timing changed, too. too much dwell is too little gap. If all you did was open the points a bit to get correct dwell, you advanced the timing some, too. I don't know if it's direct relationship, with dwell/2 = timing change.
Forgot to mention. 1953 Dodge with original flathead 230 cu. in. guess i need to go buy a timing light. I've got one that plugs into 120 but it doesn't work.
If the dwell was too low, increasing it could help the spark be more reliable. But as mentioned, you changed the timing by adjusting the dwell, that's probably why you noticed a difference. You might have put the timing right back where it should be, but you won't know until you get the timing light on it
Chances are you have it set properly now .when you adjusted the dwell you probably returned the timing to specs you will want your own timing light to check it any way but if it starts right and runs right it is right
Taken from Motor's Auto Repair Manual Never tuned up a 53 Dodge 6, but this is a strange way to set your timing................. The book only shows Dwell Method for a V8 and I did not know they had duel points............
Don't overlook the rubbing block in the equation. Couldn't get a M/C timed to run right, points gaped and looked great. After much frustration finally slowed down and really looked, noticed the rubbing block worn way down which was throwing the dwell way off. New point set with new rubbing block solved the problem. Has happened since, now I glance at the block when I am checking the points. Ed
A way to set timing - basic: Turn engine over by hand until timing marks line up where you want them. Hook a test light up between the negative terminal of your battery and the wire from the distributer to coil. ( unhook at coil ) Turn distributer clockwise until light comes on, then back off counter-clockwise until light just goes out. Re-tighten your distributer hold down bolt and you've got pretty decent timing. This is for positive ground system, after your points are gapped and the dwell is set.
This is the way to set basic timing on any engine. the test light method above is similar to the buzzer used to set magneto timing. It makes sense...we have to start somewhere to get it running. Even breakerless ignitons can be set this way using a voltemeter.
If you have a vacumn guage ,Turn distributor till you get the highest reading and then back off 1 increment or If you have 22 back off to 21 ,,,I have a motor without a pointer and thats the way I do it without a timing light...........
I'd recommend a tune up. When your car was new, tuneups were recommended every 10K. I'd get a Motors Manual from Ebay that covers the year of your car. It will have all the specs for your car. Points, plugs, condenser, Dist cap, rotor button and new wires. Then use the new tools to adjust them properly rather than play around with parts of unknown age. I do this on every car that is knew to me. The fact that the dwell was so far off tells me that they have some age on them. Then you will have a record of how many miles that the new parts have on them and you can file the points and readjust as these parts age.
Remember what dwell actually is. It is the time the points are closed and the coil is charging with voltage. When the points open the coil discharges the stored voltage as a spark across the plug gap. The longer the dwell, the hotter the spark.
Tommy, Thanks for the input. I think that this is sound advice. I have changed some of the parts but not all of them. I will see if I can gather all the parts and do it once, the right way. I have to look and see if my engine has a timing pointer on it. If not, then what? I have a vacuum gauge and could time it that way i guess. Scott
You can find tdc with a dial indicator on the #1 piston, and stick some timing tape on the damper and make a pointer to reference 0 deg. Very easy to do! Jon
Unless it has been modified it has something to denote TDC The Motors Manual will show you what it is and where it is located. Just because it does not have a conventional pointer, that does not mean it's not there. The 6 cyl Chevy has a BB on the face of the flywheel that can only be seen through a hole in the cover. Without the book you'd never find it but it is there. That is why I always recommend getting the Motors manual.
Doesn't hurt to check the OEM marks to know where things are really at when an opportunity comes along. Outer rings on dampers have been known to slip on the hubs when the rubber gets old. Ed
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