ok well thanks alot about the info on the brakes on these old cars. i think the swap may be better since parts will be easier to come across in a pinch. now i just have to do some research on the fe motors.
ok mine is a little differerent than yours. the manifolds dont look like they use the top holes in the heads. my power steering pump resivior is on the inner fender. im trying to find some company that makes headers besides the crites place. and no luck for an fe. they swapped to a gm 1 wire alt. and i just noticed tonight that is isnt lined up right, there is a bolt on the head pushing into the back of the alt throwing it slightly out of alignment.
If your reservoir is on the fender then your car must have A/C. Mine is a 62 and they still had the reservoir on the pump. The manifolds in the picture are factory 62 manifolds. Those were just on there to break the engine in. I am going to use these headers.
how do those headers fit and cost? the car did have a/c. gone now but someday it will again. it has the correct fan shroud but not original radiator.
The ones pictures are Sandersons. I bought them from Century Performance.http://www.centuryperformance.com/sdh-ff390-pr-SDH-FF390.html I don't have the engine in the car yet, so I can not be sure as to how they fit. I did test fit them and they seem to clear everything. The starter may be a challenge. The only part I am really worried about is my clutch linkage.
I don't know. I have drum brakes on everything I street drive and I put tons of miles on them without ANY issues. Disc brakes are for people who don't trust their work. The last 6 cars I put together I kept the drum brakes and rebuilt them.
well i have gone through the front and checking the rear and as long as the booster is good they should work as good as drum brakes get.
We use 1968-69 Mustang non-Boss fronts; they are 1" thick at the rotor, 11.25' in diameter and have the same 2.43" pilot as your stock rims (does require 15" disc or 14" drum rims. We are examining an oversized Metric caliper from CPP to verify fitment, hose routing, etc. These buggers are 2.75" bore, so have more clamping power and should work nice with manual masters.
Looks like:" 1968-69 Mustang non-Boss fronts", on the rotors there, pie pie...............................
Bringing an old thread back. Looking for experience with the disc swap using s10 calipers. Really looking into doing the swap this winter.
I did a kit from dearborn cloasics that was a remaned Granada kit got veerything installed had to find new rims to accomidate the bigger spindle mount and when I went to drive it damn near killed myself they put the kit together with a wrong size spindle on just one side!! I had the car towed tghe rest of teh way to an alignment shop (g12 in sacramento) who figured out the issue and let me store the car in there shop for a week while I fought with the company. They made it right in the end but waht a hasle. That being said after the spindle was fixed works fine peddle is sqishy though and feels like there is a leak somewere but none to be found and fluid leve doesnt change. I woudl like to upgrade to disc in the back and when I do I plan on re doing the whole set up. I look forward to seeing what you find !
IMO the only reason not to use later Galaxie spindles and 12in rotors is that you really, really, really want to run 14in wheels. The '66-67 four-piston setup is the best if you care about performance, there's a bunch of different rotors used in the later single-piston setup that can be a bit of a hassle to sort through.
Sorry I was meaning dual diaphragm. Will that work? Trying to get it to work with my new valve covers
Might work but you're trading one flavor of bulk for another. Now, hydraboost isn't exactly traditional but it's my answer to rocker clearance in a '64...
Well my main concern is the stopping power. I compared the s10 pads to the thunderbird pads and there is 2inches difference. The s10 calipers seem small for such a big car. The conversion is appealing because of no alignment problems and readily available parts. The thunderbird has bigger pads but alignment problems but the initial parts cost is pretty close
This is a great thread! I have a 64 Galaxie 500 and have considered doing a disk brake swap. I have to see if the 390 runs good first. We need to keep this thread going with all Galaxie technical information! What are folks recommendations on lowering their cars? I am looking for a good set of rear main leafs...the previous owner heated and bent mine to lower the car. UGH!
I bought mine from someone else. It uses a Cavalier R&P and adapters to fit the frame. There are no frame mods and the only cutting is on the column.
Up until 64 is the same. They used that bellcrank setup to make up the difference. 65 and up may be this way as well, but I do not know.
Ok bringing this thread back. This winter I plan on rebuilding the front of my car and think its a good time to swap to disc but have a few new questions. On the tbird swap I see that some people have problems and some do not. Is there a way to modify something to get it to align properly or is it just a crapshoot? Also with conversion brackets, just how well do they really hold up? I have been searching for answers and have not found any real good answers just people saying they have a problem and don't have anything on what they did about it. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
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