well i'm back from the garage after making a pit-stop at O'Reilly's (which suprisingly, they had a 6V coil!). I threw out the old one, switched in the new, and lo and behold she fired up in less than a second. I mean this thing couldn't have cranked more than twice before she started. Intertesting.... So i did what i've done before, letting her run for about 10 minutes or so then shutting her off. Tried it again, and again not even 2 cranks before she fired up! I took her down the driveway and backed her in the garage for better light during the day (my garage is from the 50's, so lighting is currently at a premium until I can get the family electrician in there). Thanks again to Bruce, Saxon, and yblock for the suggestions, and thanks railroad for the tip. I will be fine-tuning tomorrow, so if I can't get it right that will be the first thing i look at (yes, the carb kit came with a new power valve, which when installed, seemed like it worked tons better than the old one). Thanks again everyone!!!
Good to hear Tom. The flattie lives! If you haven't done yet, get a compression tester and a vacuum gauge.
Power valve fit problem: Look at your old one...if it was correct, it has a flat close in around the threaded part that seals against gasket to bottom of bowl. Many current rebuild kits have the valve from a 4150 type 4-barrel, which has the gasket surface too far out to engage the Ford gasket...it has a conical surface that might or might not crunch into the gasket well enough to seal. Someone on here sells a special correction washer...does anyone have a link to person or washer?? Also, do not discard original needle valve inlet...the new rubber tip ones can have sticking problems.
I bought 3 or 4 modified power valves from someone I found on the net. He turns down the shoulder on the newer valves, where the gasket will set flat and seal properly. He includes and sells nylon gaskets for the power valves. His price is no more than the cost of the power valve locally. I'll try and find his site or name if no one recognizes the description.
Someone on here makes special gaskets for using them as-is, which is nice because the four barrel valves are very easy to find. These would also allow direct use of readily available kits that are now coming through with wrong valves. Much of the Holley 4-barrel is closely related to the the old AA-1, but rearranged architecturally so much there is no overall resemblance.