sbc is driving me nuts!!!!

new fuel pump
new coil
new voltage resistor
carb had a rebuild,but i think the accelerator pump is not right (ds shoots more fuel than pass side)
engine is cool,max temp is 170
new spark plug wires
has oil
I got it to run near perfect and a local mechanic checked the carb and found 2 vaccum leaks.
1 vacuum leak fixed(plugged) the other leak is on the base gasket.
he told me he leaned it a little bit and thats when trouble started.it would not iddle smooth like i had it.
Today it stalled while driving,it stalled 3 times.
it will run then it will stall like the carb not getting fuel,i wait 5 minutes and its a bitch to start and when it does start,it only stays running for 30 seconds.
Im sick of it.
Could it be the alternator????

 

how many volts is it putting out at idle? does it stall at idle or while your up to speed?

 

Have you fixed the other vacuum leak? You need to address that before you start chasing your tail

 

It sounds more like a carburetor problem. But really, we should have more information. Like what carb, what did the mechanic do, fuel pressure, ect., ect., ect.. Also, where did the idea the alternator is causing the problem come from?

John

 

A pirate enters a bar with a steering wheel in his pants, the bartender asks, whats with the steering wheel in your pants? The pirate replys............Its driving me nuts
Sorry, the title reminded me of the joke. SORRY

 

Why was a local "mechanic" checking it if it was running near perfect ?

 

Your hamb name says it all... Follow that

 

You have a vacuum leak in the base plate of the carb --- thus, it's already running lean since it's sucking air that's not going through the carb.

Then the local "mechanic" leans it out more???

Fix the leak at the gasket. Reset the idle mixture to specs. Go from there.

 

If you are running sbc in a 52 Ford F1 it may not like that.Just kidding. When I got my 52 f1 had problem stalling,stopping side of road,wouldn,t run good.
What I did was take the tank behind seat out and flush out tank,new gas line,because i broke the shut off be carful with that.Thats my guess.I don,t have any more problem.

 

I really really want a flattie but cant afford it plus if i can barely work on a sbc... i went to ask the mechanic about another truck and he told me that he wanted to check my truck so he started to work on it. i didnt want to say "no" cuz he lets me use the lift sometimes.didnt want to piss him off

 

I really really want a flattie but cant afford it plus if i can barely work on a sbc... i went to ask the mechanic about another truck and he told me that he wanted to check my truck so he started to work on it. i didnt want to say "no" cuz he lets me use the lift sometimes.didnt want to piss him off

 

Well, 2 choices, fix the base gasket and let him re fix the mixtures or you fix the base gasket and adjust the carb yourself...if the problem started after he messed with the carb, that list of parts you have thrown at it or an alternator for that matter, won't fix it..

 

Now that there is funny.

Ok, like all others said fix vac. problem. And how good is a mechanic that knows an engine has a vac. leak then leans it out. Its lean to begin with.

 

As for the alternator question: Newer cars require substantial voltage to continue running the computer, fuel pump, and other assorted electronics. When the alternator starts to fail, it often impacts performance.

Older engines will continue to perform decently even after lights have dimmed, turn signals run slow, etc when the alternator starts failing until the battery is drained. What I'm trying to say is you'd know immediately if the alternator was the problem by the simple fact that if your charging circuit (alternator, regulator, battery) is performing poor enough to affect engine function, there typically wouldn't be enough energy to crank it back up after it stalls out.

 

Hei ?

 

You had it running pretty good ,your mechanic touched it,now it won't run. Fix the carb spacer leak and find somebody who knows how to adjust a carb. Your mechanic doesn't know what hes doing.

 

So do i just tighten the carb a little bit more? the spacer is new

 

Pull your plugs and look at them. I was fighting some issues recently with a new crate motor and found a completely fouled plug. Surprized the He!! out of me. I never expected it.

After that, you need more details, specifically, carb type, and ignition type, along with how the car is wired.

Post some pictures too, some of us are better at pics than at reading.

 

Do you have gasket between the spacer and manifold and a gasket between carb and spacer ? Be careful with over tightening. You got any pics of your setup? You have been driving it with the leak so more than likely you will need to replace the gaskets.

 

No!! The first thing I have to ask is what carb you have and what intake you have along with what (brand and part number) of spacer you have.

Pull the carb and spacer and look at the imprints on the gaskets and make sure that there is no missed coverage as far as the spacer covering the holes in the intake or the carb covering the holes in the spacer.

As long as you have a fully charged battery you don't even need a frigging alternator or generator on the car for the engine to run right. I've watched way too many Heart O Texas speedway dirt trackers run a whole night of racing with no charging system on the car and do fine. Don't start peeing in the wind when the problem is fairly obvious.

 

start by fixing what you know is bad. checking your plugs isn't a bad idea either. see if your choke is stuck. has it backfired recently? definitely start with the carb issues. after that start thinking about plugs and plug wires.

 

If you pull the plugs and they are white it is running too lean and black is too rich , you want a dark gray to brown. There is no common cents that would lead to leaning a carb out when there is already a leak at the base gasket. PULL THE PLUGS, ALL OF THEM, AND REPLY.

 

$10 Quadrajet at the Junkyard. If it dosn't work, it always worth $10 to someone.

 

it is tempting, but if there is a vacuum leak then the carb and spacer gaskets will need to be replaced. Once the carb and spacer are off, verify the cause of the vacuum leak, broken or miss matched gasket. Replace both gaskets and or the spacer to fix the vacuum leak. As far as adjusting the carb, once it is warmed up, slowly back out the two brass screws at the base (they have springs), one at a time until the engine "picks up " and smooths out. Turn one screw in 1/2 turn and then back out to find its best idle. Do the same with the other screw. Do this slowly so you can hear the engine change pitch. Once it is idling smoothly call this number (HAMB) if you are experiancing any stalling or hesitation. Work on one part at a time.

 

This may sound stupid. Grab your dist and try and turn it. My hold down bolt loosened and timeing was way retarded. That's what you get when you use a non stock hold down. My truck had all the problems you listed. Besides it doesn't take 5 sec to check.

 

Ok guys thanks for the suggestions and replies.and even the joke,it was pretty good.
I was at work and could not post picsetc.
Quadrajet carb,recently got a shitty rebuild from a shitty shop in vegas,cleaed it changed all the gaskets and float.
I really dont knw what manifold but its a edelbrock.
it didnt missfire recently
I dont think the chocke is wired (manual choke not electric)
its stock points distributor
i checked the distributor and its not loose but i cant "advance"it cuz it hits the manfold.
the truck is at my in laws so i will be able to take pictures tomorrow.
I only have a thick gasket between the manifold and carb.
thanks yall for the replies

 

shoot that mechanic. Then fix the leak at the base gasket and put it back to the setting that you had when it ran.

 

Sounds like your engine is vapor locking or the float is sticking closed

 

Just a thought. When it dies, go out back and crack the gas cap. Hear a hiss? Just thinking- runs 5 mins, then dies and won't start like it's out of gas could be a tank not venting. Or leave the cap off and see if it still dies.

 

sounds like you know what the problem is (.your mechanic) undo what he did, fix the vacuum leak.what makes you think alt.