King Of Trucks Chapter Three...Serious Bidness...

I've got a shit ton of body work to do first, haha! But I appreciate it very much!!!

Thanks Dick!! I'll get that oil line figured out. I don't think its for oil pressure as the engine has an electrical sender on the rear of the block just behind the valley pan.

Here's a pic of the fitting in question. If anyone knows, please share!..

Easy big fella. I'm going up there to clean it up in a few minutes. Along with plugging that oil line and getting that fuel pressure regulator installed and turning that fuel down to really light this thing up. Today just may be the day. But probably not.

I love JJ too much to fight.

Thanks doc!!!

 

Yeah we don't fight, we hug it out...

...and then I whisper into his hear that he's a thoughtless motherfucker for leaving an oil spill on a floor he doesn't even pay rent for.


Hurry up and get that truck on the road. I believe it's been 11 pages on this thread since any real picture worth updates. I want to see you do a big burnout in the shop on that oil stain just in spite of me.

 

I heard back in '82, you used to be able to throw a pigskin a quarter mile. True or false?

 

i replied to your other thread with this.....

whats the number on your block? it should start with 59-62.
do you have the oil filter canister, it looks like you have it mounted up by your oil fill tube ( stock location), chrome?
if so im gonna say, i may be wrong, but i think you have a 365 Cadillac, not a 390. the 365 had an oil fitting like your describing that ran to the oil filter canister.
if you have a screw on oil filter then its a 390.

 

I ran the number once while we were at the shop RYNO and from what I could find it was a 390. That's not to say the info on the net that I found isn't right but I think I double checked it. But that would totally make sense if it was a 365 because he bought it thinking it was a 365.

 

Again I may be wrong, but I've had quite a few 390 and none of them had that canister or fittings

But all the 365 s I've seen or had, had that oil line.

I'm gonna say look up the 365 oil passages and line diagram and it will confirm.
I hate to say for sure on a forum like this, because there's always a "specialist" that will know more about it!

I made the same mistake and bought a 365 thinking it was a 390 but after looking atvthe numbers it started with 58xxxx so it was a 1958 365 with the oil lines like that.

 

Yeah I think you might be right. What a strange turn of events.

 

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

Bummer!

 

Hahahahahahhahahahahhahahahah
TRUE STORY!!!

 

Too late. I already cleaned it up.

Yeah... Coach woulda put me in fourth quarter, we would've been state champions. No doubt. No doubt in my mind.

I'll check the numbers tonight or in the morning.

Here's a pic from the shop manual for now. Pay attention to the vertical oil header. The manual says this vertical oil header is capped off at the top with a hex plug. The diagram doesn't show whether this vertical oil header is inside or outside the block.

I'll check the numbers.

Screw you.

 

Awesome progress man! Hate that I missed hearing it run lastnight.

 

Thanks Kasey! Although it didn't run very much last night, lol.

 

Today I got the required fittings for the fuel pressure regulator. I also got a cap for that oil line on the side of the block. I rerouted the fuel line from the fuel pump to include the pressure regulator and pressure gauge.

I should be ready to run it to set the fuel pressure at around 2 1/2 psi at idle. I need an extra set of hands to help with that. One in the cab to crank and work the gas and one in the engine bay to set the pressure and turn screws in the carbs.

I'm going to use tater's and Jeremy's advice to pinch of the fuel lines to the outer carbs and try to get it running on the center carb only with the lower fuel pressure. Once that's accomplished, we can set up the progressive linkage to add the outer carbs into the mix.

I think that should get me where I need to be. Then lots and lots of fine tuning with the carbs and timing to get it perfect. Then once its running perfect, lots and lots of fine tuning of the tv rod (now a cable) to make it shift right.

So I'm still not quite there yet. But we're taking steps in the right direction to get there. Don't worry, its coming.

 

Ryno, unless I'm mistaken, 1959 390's had an oil filter canister in the same place as mine, not a spin on filter on the back of the driver side of the block like later 390's. The oil fitting on the passenger side of the block does not go to the oil filter canister. There are two fittings for the canister on the driver side front of the block. One on top near the front of the valley pan and the return by the water pump.

Anyway, I'm looking at a photo of the numbers and playing with the contrast and brightness and it looks a lot more like a 59 than a 58. But again, I'm not looking at it in person. I'll get back to the shop tonight or tomorrow to confirm.


***EDITED TO ADD***

This photo of a page in the 1959 shop manual shows the 390 with an oil filter canister with lines going where I described above. No lines to or from the canister go to the passenger side of the block near the rear. No spin on oil filter in the 1959 390 factory shop manual diagram.

 

I fight with you on purpose just so we can make up.

 

Terd! good talking to you today and now get out there and have a good game!!!

 

EXACTLY!

Man, thanks a ton for the help! We're getting there. I'm going to go to the shop tomorrow and block off the fuel lines for the outer carbs, lower the fuel pressure to 2 1/2 psi and see how good I can get it to run.



Me and tater talked about some interesting technical shit today. He really knows his stuff. I try to be like a vessel when I listen to guys like him give advice. One step at a time wins the race. You can't get ahead of yourself. He mentioned a while back before I started all this about how the first 90% would go really fast and the last 10% would take like what seems forever and to not get discouraged at the last hills.

Well, he was right on. But I'm not discouraged. I'm still as excited as when we yanked that stovebolt out. Even in the stumbles and theories that turn out incorrect are lessons to be learned and progress is made even when you seem to be going backwards. I like being around smart guys and observing the way they work and think. And I'm pretty much surrounded, lol. That's what I am digging the most.

 

I'm on board with the fuel pressure, but we tried blocking fuel off on the outer carbs. It wouldn't fire for shit, the intake runners wouldn't give fuel to the front and rear corners. The center plugs were fouled and the fronts were dry as a bone....
Get your fuel pressure down first.
If that doesn't work You can change the ratio on the accelerator pump linkage so it doesn't dump as much fuel.
If that doesn't work then you can block off fuel
Make one change at a time, so ya know what fixes it.

 

i agree jerimiah but just to figure out the fuel ratio it needs. it is much easier to pinch fuel lines than rebuild or modify acelerator pump linkage

was that just a fight? Can i have a hug?

 

Badass caddy mill, a bunch of wierd gay shit, I even saw a picture of a ghetto bitch thrown in somewhere....best thread ever...

 

no fighting on my end. the accelerator linkage on his carbs is adjustable, it has 3 different holes you can select from. A cotter pin is all that holds ya back. No mods necessary . And it's currently in the hole that gives the pumps the max stroke... That's the way they came. We noticed this late Wednesday night.

 

I forgot about the front plugs being leaned out when we blocked the outer carbs. Thanks for reminding me!

Jeremy goes on to explain this in his next post. But its easy.

Right.

Wrong.



Now its the best thread ever.

Excellent point Mr. Moriarity!

 

And since there was some discrepancy as to exact engine ID here and in the other mysterious oil fitting thread, here's what I've found out....

 

Now for today's update...

I set about getting it started and idling in order to set the fuel pressure as low as possible. 3 psi was as low as I could get it to go with the adjustment maxed out. I ran it on all three carbs based on the reminder that blocking fuel to the outer carbs lean out the outer cylinders so much. It idled decently, but still had the stumble upon the application of throttle.

Now, that said, fuel was now just dribbling out when applying throttle. Before the fuel pressure adjustment, it was shooting out into the air like a water gun, lol.

So now that I've got close to the correct fuel pressure, I will get on with changing the throttle linkage to progressive. Then from there, I'll get to fiddling with the accelerator pump linkage adjustment and whatever else Jeremy and tater tell me to do, haha!

All oil and trans leaks seem to have dried up since blocking off that mysterious oil fitting and tightening the trans pan bolts. So that's some more good news.

 

Now that the fuel pressure is dialed in, adjust the idle air mixture screws while idling to see if it has an affect on idle. It did not Wed. night, but it is supposed to. Good Luck!

 

After reading that I don't believe I stressed idle enough.................

 

true shawn but the air screws should be set at 2 and not be turned in or out more than .5 turns. if it takes more that the jet is wrong