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another 235 chevy question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by slinginrods, Aug 28, 2011.

  1. slinginrods
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 422

    slinginrods
    Member
    from florida

    who has used the t5 behind their 235 and hows it done?new bellhousing?or does it bolt to the original 3 spd bellhousing?mine is a1955 235 truck eng and 3 spd.thanks
     
  2. jalopy45
    Joined: Nov 5, 2005
    Posts: 529

    jalopy45
    Member

    Do a search on the Inliners forum, they have several threads on this swap and loads of info and parts numbers to make it work in most chasis. http://www.inliners.org/
     
  3. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,595

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Lots of threads on this. In short, drill the mounting holes out to take 1/2 inch bolts. shorten the throwout collar, and shorten the pilot shaft.
     
  4. slinginrods
    Joined: Oct 6, 2008
    Posts: 422

    slinginrods
    Member
    from florida

    cool thanks guys
     

  5. 1958apache
    Joined: Jun 7, 2009
    Posts: 51

    1958apache
    Member


    I'm in the process documenting the swap I did in my 1958 truck. Best thing I have ever done to my truck hands down!

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=623998
     
  6. heatmiser
    Joined: May 6, 2009
    Posts: 253

    heatmiser
    Member
    from mia

    haven't run mine yet, but swap is completed... used camaro w/c trans w/ s10 tail housing...my truck had the 9" clutch, so swapped flywheels for the larger clutch , but yours may have it all ready... then used astro van clutch and pressure plate and stock release bearing... had to take a bit off the trans mainshaft (3/8" maybe) and open up two holes on the trans to bell housing... was way easier then i expected...
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    If using a T5 from a '83-92 S10:

    Method #1:
    Trim 3/8" off the tip of the input shaft.
    Trim 1" off the bearing retainer.
    Run a 1/2" drill bit through the mounting holes.

    Test fit trans and disc to make sure the disc will pull back enough to disengage the flywheel. If it doesn't, (and they usually don't), you will need to either grind some off the back of the disc hub, lengthen the splines on the input with a Dremel tool, or use a 1/8" spacer between the trans and bellhousing.

    Method #2:
    Buy a $150 spacer from one of several sources which moves the trans back enough to allow it to be installed without any modifications other than drilling out the mounting holes to 1/2".

    If you want a cable driven speedo, you will need to look for a '83-89ish S10 version, but look at it before buying as some of these were electric and you can't just swap the slugs around.
     

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