Toggle switch for headlights?

I'm thinking about a dash re-do and contemplating using toggle switches for the headlights, parking lights and interior under-dash light. Haas anyone done this? Do you have a picture or wiring diagram? Many thanks.

 

You need to use the toggle switch to operate a relay. JC

 

Check out 50's Studebakers and 50's & 60's Hawks and Avantis. They used them as std. equip. Studebaker International Catalog lists them (not cheap). Get on the Studebaker Drivers Club website, some of their vendors also cary them. Jim

 

I use a toggle switch for my lights..... I used one rated for more than the amps that are needed for the lights and wire large enough for the amps. Been like that for about four years without any issues.

 

Most headlight switches have a circuit breaker for the headlights built in. You would need to install one.

 

I use these for all my headlights / parking / mostly everything. Keeps the old style look and you can buy them all day at any auto parts store. never had a problem.

 

Wiring a switch is nothing, it's the relay (if you use one) that can be a little funny. If you use a relay, you can use pretty much whatever kind of switch you want, so long as the relay can handle the correct amperage. Here's a basic diagram I found with google:

 

Jeff Norwell,thanks-could you post or PM me a picture

Enraged Hawk and others-do you figure I would need a relay for the headlights, but could use straight wiring for the parking lights and interior light?

 

I never use relays, I straight wire everything and never had problems. I use different toggles for headlight, parking, electric fuel pump... i always hated the idea of putting to much crap on one toggle, could give you problems.

 

It really comes down to what amperage your headlights and other things draw. You can hook anything up without a relay if you run a thick enough wire and a switch that can handle it, but sometimes they can become big and bulky. Parking lights and interior lights SHOULDN'T draw that much, and can probably be wired directly. Anything 15 amps or more, I would highly recommend putting on a relay. Just my 2 cents. I've been working with automotive electronics for years, feel free to PM me if there's anything I can help out with.

 

I know this is 'micky mouse' but in one 12v car I didn't have a proper light switch and just used the cheap household ac toggle switch that has the wire leads... rated for 3 amps ac and they last a year or so...powering two headlights and two tailights... just carry a spare!

 

Any Big Rig parts house will have switches, relays and proly S.W. guages.

 

I used two 24V military aircraft toggles, they carry heaps of amperage.
use two, wire the first one with two outputs, one goes to the park lights and instrument lights, and the other output is the input for the headlights, that way, to get headlights, you need to flick both switches on, and you cant have the headlights on without the parkers on.

 

I used two 24V military aircraft toggles, they carry heaps of amperage.
use two, wire the first one with two outputs, one goes to the park lights and instrument lights, and the other output is the input for the headlights, that way, to get headlights, you need to flick both switches on, and you cant have the headlights on without the parkers on.

 

67 plymouth fury....toggle headlight switch is stock equipment

 

X2......no issues. I use aircraft high amp sealed toggles. Same ones for 10+ years.

 

Thanks for the input, guys. Looks like something i should work on a bit. I like the idea of a 24V aircraft toggle-anyone have a good source? Thanks again.

 

hot rod leather for switches, etc-never would have looked there - Thanks

 

24 volt systems would use LESS amperage, not MORE than 12 volt, likewise 12 volt uses less amperage than 6 volt systems for a given wattage of bulb.

So, unless the 24v switch is rated for as high or higher than your (presumably) 12v lamps require, it doesn't offer a better solution.

Ray

 

I used to run my lights off a Studabaker toggle it had a circut breaker built in. They must be hard to find now.

 

Those Hot Rod Leather switches and switch gear are great looking. Def need to put some in the truck!

 

you can buy 70 amp relays with big terminals, google relays and look around cheep too

i keep melting stock parts and terminals so am useing relays for switching
looks like most replacement parts are crappy

was a real thrill losing headlights north of Omaha at 7o MPH on swervy hills

 

Hnstray is right, good old ohms law. V=IR I know I'm going to be out numbered on this one, hands down, but I highly recommend running relays. They offer so much more. For starters, you don't have to drill huge holes in your dash for giant switches. You'd be able to buy small, nice looking ones from pretty much anywhere, even autozone. Check these out. You can get five 12V 40A relays for $15 shipped. Then you don't have to run a bunch of 12 gauge wire around your car just to power up a few things, and you can buy some good looking switches that wont clutter up your dash.

 

Ok, so I might be a little OCD....

Anyway, here's what I would recommend doing:


It only takes one relay and one fuse. The relay will supply power to your head lights, parking lights, gauges that illuminate, and probably whatever other crap you want on that switch. (Switches are the boxes at the top right) The right one will control the gauges and parking lights. The switch on the left operates the head lights, but it requires the parking lights to be on as well, like lowsquire suggested.

Also, in my drawing I didn't include 87a on the relay. If you go with a relay, you just leave that terminal alone, it's not used for this.

 

I did a toggle on my car when i rewired it, but knowing better now, I would suggest the use of a relay also, to get more current directly to the lights (much brighter!)

Devin

 

Use a auto reset circuit breaker and a relay. Odds are you can use just a 30 amp switch and be ok, but odds are much much better with a relay. No offense intended to those who do it differently. but well designed circuits use relays. Less load on the switch, less chance of fires. It is the professional way to do it.

b

 

I used Hot Rod Leathers toggles for my headlights, ignition, fan, and his pushbutton starter button.
Ran the hot wire from the fuse panel that usually goes to a headlight switch to a terminal block. Then through one toggle that turns on the parking lamps, low beam, and dash lights. Used another toggle for the high beams, so one toggle wouldn't have to hold the whole load.
The toggles are rated at 20 or 30 amps I don't remember but time will tell if it lasts or not, just got it all wired up last week so there is no time on the system yet.
I thing there is pictures of the switch panel I built in my album if anyone wants to see it.
I mounted it right below the dash.
The reason I did it this way was so that I wouldn't need a key switch in the dash at all.