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Barrel finishing to remove rust.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by iwanaflattie, Aug 7, 2011.

  1. Hey guys has anyone tried remove rust off of small parts using this method??
    Basically build a a tumbler and add some abrasives to clean up rusty brackets etc???
    I think using an oil barrel and a small motor would be cheap enough to use and you can always use sand or rocks as an abrasive.
    Thoughts????
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2011
  2. they use hardwood chips in removing and polishing small metal parts in a tumbler from what my uncle used to tell me when he was stamping out metal parts and it worked well.
     
  3. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    I know tumbling works real good on brass shells.

    once you find out what best abrasive you need for the type of tumbling your going to do. should yield some nice results.
     
  4. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,408

    oldolds
    Member

    Get an old cement mixer, take out the paddles. You might have to slow it down a little, but it is about what you want.
     

  5. To remove rust it is much simpler to use vinegar.....unless you are going for a certain finish.
     
  6. I've seen a lot of parts polished that way. I'vve seeen everything from steel shot to walnut shell used to polishing media. I think Eastwood sells some of that stuff.
     
  7. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    consider a used / free dryer, hook the motor up to a variable speed switch, kill the heat source, make a strong latch for the door.
     
  8. cl350rr
    Joined: Jun 29, 2011
    Posts: 220

    cl350rr
    Member

    I use electolisys regularly to remove rust from all kinds of parts. with the right setup it is relatively fast and simple to do
     
  9. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I think the molasses tank works best, especially when heated.

    If you have ever purchased custom fab brackets alot of the time they have a distressed look with hundreds of little dings in them. Tumbling in a barrel or mixer would have to be slow and parts realively the same size and weight with lots of abrasive to keep the nicks and gouges to a minimum from banging into each other.
     
  10. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    Grange co-op or livestock feed store. I think you can get it from grocery stores also but don't know if it is as strong.

    There are severall molases threads on here that will answer that question positivly.
     
  11. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    It would be interesting to see a side by side comparison of the two methods, molasses and vinegar. I've used vinegar to get rid of rust for years, but have never tried molasses.
     
  12. Mudgy
    Joined: Dec 4, 2010
    Posts: 231

    Mudgy
    Member

  13. The molasses from the feed store is the kind you want, it is different than the stuff at the grocery store. Feed store sells in bulk so I had to bring my own container. I mixed up a batch 4-1 with water last spring in a Rubbermaid tote. I derusted stuff all last summer, until it froze into a solid block. When it thawed out this
    spring I tried it again and it still worked, so I am still using it. I usually let the stuff sit
    a while, take the parts out and wire brush the loosened stuff off and throw them in again. When they are pretty clean I wire brush, then wash off with soap and water.
    Then I give the parts a clean up in the blast cabinet. It seems to me if you leave them in too long it appears to etch the surface deeper where the rust was as compared to the unrusted surface. I recently bought an Eastwood tumbler for small parts, it seems like a pretty slow process to me so far. Think I will put it in the shed where I don't have to hear it. I used the green stuff that came with it, anyone used anything that
    worked better?
     
  14. Thegratenate
    Joined: Jun 11, 2011
    Posts: 1

    Thegratenate
    Member
    from Baker CA

    Did you add a little heat to your molasses? It may have been a little chilly yesterday, I don't think that it got over 115.
     
  15. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,602

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I'm pretty sure all these shiny new Holley and Edelbrock carbs and fuel pumps etc are polished by tumbling.
     
  16. our local starter / altanator rebuilder uses a tumbler and it makes parts look new
     
  17. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Portable kids wading pool for doors and 44 gal plastic drums work a treat
     
  18. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    I use this method exactly, except that I leave the paddles in as I still use the mixer to mix concrete. I use several shovel fulls of sand, unless the parts are really rusty, then I use some pea size gravel as well.
     
  19. 6-71
    Joined: Sep 15, 2005
    Posts: 542

    6-71
    Member

    I have a friend(long time body man) who uses the shop's paint shaker to clean small parts.He breaks a tempered glass window,collects the glass chunks, and puts them in a gallon paint can with the small parts. a few minutes of vigorous shaking,the hardware looks like new.Doesn't seem to tear things up like blasting does.:)
     
  20. jonnyonedrip
    Joined: Sep 23, 2010
    Posts: 121

    jonnyonedrip
    Member
    from canada

    for some parts i just use muratic acid for small parts i use q tips and apply by hand for larger or badly rusted parts i dip the whole part just don't leave the parts in for to long or there will be nothing left lol and remember acid doesn't care if its metal or flesh he he
     
  21. Skcollob
    Joined: Mar 16, 2011
    Posts: 50

    Skcollob
    Member
    from UK, Kambs

    I use citric acid, it's about 6-7 USD I guess for 2 lbs pounds of powder posted, over here. Tried vinegar but the citric is loads better and doesn't have the horrible stink, nor the danger of other acids. I use cheap plastic containers / tanks, or even drainpipe with one end blocked for long thin stuff. Nice & easy and cheap.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2011

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