Adjusting Float bowl levels. Give me the "Dumb ass" version on the adjustment, and what that will do for my carb. Please start with the screw and the lock nut......Thanks in advance.
Remove site screw from side of bowl then loosen screw first, turn nut clockwise to lower float or counter clock to raise then lock back down with screw. You want fuel to be at the bottom edge of site hole while adjusting.
And remember, the rear bowl won't burn off fuel at idle. (On most) So bring it up VERY slowly. I pack paper towels around the base and just barely crack the screw on adjuster to prevent gas going everywhere. Gets easier as you do a few.
Even those without rear idle mixture screws still have an idle circuit. You just cant adjust it, you make it up in front. This is so fuel refreshes if your one that never gets into the secondary very often.
Alot of guys are gonna disagree with what Im about to say ,But I read it in a holley setup book ,Bring the float up just before it trickles out ,Thats where it should be set at ,Bump down on fender it should only trickle out then,Alot of guys run them to high in my opinion ,Gas should not trickle out of site holes while car is idling......
I pre-set the floats with a .425" air gap when rebuild one and then make the final adjustment while the car is running...
I used to do a lot of them yrs. ago, and although I can't document it, I always finished by being a tad low and bringing it up on the counter clockwise rotation and set the jam nut. I am pretty sure I read that in some instructions or a tip manual, seems like the claim was that it put the o-rings in position to seal best, but I don't remember for sure.
Careful if you do it like this with a doublepumper - there will only be about three threads left on the needle & seat screw and can go past the adjuster very easy.
The Jalopy Journal
