Original Henry Ford bolts, nuts and washers...show me...

Like the title says...show me what you got that's real Ford fasteners from the day...and tell what they go to...there is nothing better than handling real Ford nuts and bolts.

Tell what year the fasteners are and what they go to and what sizes they are...

I'd love to build a rod outta real Ford fasteners from the day.

whaddayagot?

 

I've got bin of all original Ford Bolts that I have in the garage. I'll snap some pics when I go out there next. Original bolts definitely have their own look and feel to them and are becoming harder and harder to come by. I scooped up a big bag of original castle nuts from KIRK! last year and they've come in handy so far.

Funny this came up because I was putting 47 Ford rear shock mounts on my '35 over the weekend which required a longer bolt through the backing plate hub. And since I could not find a fine thread anywhere locally I went with a coarse thread bolt and nut with lock washer. Well you know that those new grade 8 bolts stick out like a sore thumb so I tried my hand at refinishing them with a propane torch and some oil. The first try didn't turn out that well and I think if I were to do it again I would use filthy used oil instead of new stuff because I didn't get the shade of black oil finish I was looking for.

Point being, I would go through a bunch of trouble just to pass 4 bolts off as originals or at the very least, not cause enough attention that they stick out amongst the real McCoy's.

 

We think the same way. I have tons of old ford fasteners collected over the last 20 years that will be used on my next project. Wire wheel and paint and cotter pin in some cases...

 

When I was taking apart my model A I loved all the bolts ford used. mainly the 3/8 by maybe inch or inch and a half with the nice domed head and was going to reuse many of them untill I was talking to a restorere and he said be carefull as they are all grade 2.

 

I hate nylocks. I'm into to castle nuts and cotter pins. Original shackle pins are a PITA compared to the stainless plastic bushed streetrod shackles but the extra effort is worth it to me.

 

Larry,

If you switch over to 20's Dodge, the bolts all had a raised "DB" emblem on the head!

 

I agree Larry, and will try to post some photos tonight. Henry must of liked hardware too, since all the head bolts and water manifold bolts on 1926-27 T's got nickle plated.

 

Lots of the parts on my 1912 T are stamped DB as well, the brothers made parts and a profit from Ford then went out on their own in 1914.

 

Yup- I forgot about that, Bob!

 

It would be better to post this over on the Ford Barn. Not only are those folks really into original hardware, but there have been several posts with links to members who have already collected the data you want. Do a search.

 

No such thing as grade 2 that i am aware of. I can't think of any domed head 3/8 bolts but all the suspension bolts i can think of would be at least grade 8, modern standard. I have lot certified grade 9 and i would compare them to what henry used.

 

There is a supplier of original type ford hardware. I think his name is Roy Nacweiz (or something very close to that) The guys on the fordbarn swear by this guy. I've noticed over the years that most of the original ford bolts have a taller head than most modern bolts. And no, they are not grade 2 bolts.

 

If You have a Model T You can use this..

 

And this..

 

Grade 2 is sold as light duty, general purpose hardware. I worked at QFF and they sold grade 2,5,and 8 by the pound.

 

Early Fords predate the grade system. Critical bolts were specified for the uses, with things like engine studs and suspension fasteners being very, very tough stuff...I know because I have taken apart many a rusted Ford bolt.
You can decode fastener sizes and types straight from a few Ford parts catalogs.
Special stuff, like many suspension fasteners and engine bits and many fasteners that are simply special shape or threads will carry a Ford part number close to the number of the parts it held together.
General fasteners, lightly stressed stuff like manifold bolts, fender bolts, etc. were hardware items that were generic...these are usually listed near the part they hold in tha catalog and have much longer numbers like 20346-S...these are generic hardware and are decoded in the "Standard Parts" section at the back of the parts catalog. The number will lead you to full nomenclature on type of fastener, threads, etc., and the letter tells finish...oxide, cad, plain, nickel, etc.
I think current bolts are often coverd by same number system but of course differ from 1932 equivalents by head thickness, types of plating, and such. Original hardware remains distinctive.
There are also huge Ford separate "Standard Parts" catalogs, and "Harware and trim"
catalogs that detail all the special body widgets. Necessary because most of the lists in the backs of the car catalogs have gaps...
Graded bolts are somewhere post WWII and have their pitfalls...there is NO authority on the standards, so the Chinese can put whatever number of lines on top you want. If you need known strength you have to buy from industrial sources...
And of course the choice is pretty much grade 5 and grade 8, lacking super duper stuff. You will note that much traditional SAE stuff on US cars that can kill you, like suspension bolts, is ungraded still...this is because the SAE ranges lack a super-tough type (like you see in aircraft fastener specs), and so these are special bolts made for GM or Ford for their specific requirements.
Read up via Carroll Smiths wonderful Nuts and Bolts book...required reading, though it is scary in places. Counterfeit bolts in SAE and in aircraft grades are a big industry, so essentially you can't rust anything...except, of course, real Henry Bolts for the critical stuff.

 

Here's the link to Roy Nacewicz repo fasteners and wood for vintage Fords.

http://www.fordscript.com/

 

good stuff bruce

 

Thats what she said...

 

only a few of us have a Ford Fastener Fetish?

 

I know the GPW's Ford built for the war all had the F script stamped on them, they are pricey just to buy a couple of original script bolts. amongst other items that all had the f script stamped on them, they are much more expensive to buy compared to the basic Willys bolts.

 

they are the best! roy nashowitz reproduces all early ford hardware..expensive but nice..and offers all original coatings. i dont know if my spelling on his name is correct..

 

I was going to offer Roy Nacewicz's name too, but I see I was late to the dance. He's a great guy to talk to about fasteners, especially if you speak deuce.

 

I always find it interesting that quite often I can easily loosen and a remove fine
thread bolts that were probably last touched 80 years ago at the Ford plant, while
I have to cut bolts off my late models.

 

A few weeks ago, I picked up a couple '28 Chevy 4 engines (along with a '22 and a '23).

The '28s were still in the chassis and had been out in the elements for decades- only had to use the PB Blaster once...

and most of the nuts/bolts loosened by hand after breaking them loose

 

The Ford cad plating was incredible...last year I unscrewed a '32 bumber bolt that was so corroded the nut was cone shaped, flats entirely gone. Got a vise grip to hold it after much fuss and it simply unscrewed without drama...

Hardware in general...stuff you can buy most easily now is totally off-kilter for an older rod, with funny zinc plating and general cheesey appearance. For older still, like 1940's, all those SAE lines and thin bolt heads are inappropriate...and of course a rodder would likely have kept most of the original bolts in service if they fit and were still good. Smart scroungers would have saved every fastener they encountered and brought home a good harvest of high grade OEM stuff from each trip to the junkyard...
If you have ever seen a fresh flathead put together by a serious resto lunatic, it can be almost a symphony of complementary finishes, with enamel, soft cad fasteners, aluminum heads, etc. setting off the picture. Zinc, little lines, and stainless simply don't belong with ancient machinery...
Period rodding has an odd resto feel for it. Not only does the stuff all have to look the period, the period rodders were working from solid, pre-salt cars and naturally kept the applicable OEM stuff in service.

 

I bought a '40 Ford chassis that had been sitting outside in a junkyard for years. When I disassembled it, all but a couple of nuts were easy to loosen. Amazed me!

 

Both my '27 Ts, my tub and roadster, came apart with some PB Blaster: one application.
I also have 2 early Chevy chassis, which also came apart without 'fastener drama'...

I'm surprised others are early hardware appreciative. McMaster-Carr is even limited in their assortment of varying castle nut styles...

Thanks for the mention of Roy Nacewicz! I'll be an ardent customer.

 

will...not...let...thread...die...

 

Roy Nacewicz is the best out there that I have found, BAR NON. A HUGE appreciation to Roy for what he offers.

If you thinking about doing 38pu correct fender to bed bolts let me know!