I decided that I needed a rotisserie to properly sand blast and paint a frame. One of the advantages of being old is that you wake up at 3AM and do your best thinking. The disadvantage is that you don't go back to sleep for fear you won't remember what you were thinking about when you awake. I've been up all night. This morning I'm off to Harbor Freight, the Chinese tool company. I am buying two $50 engine stands. Then I'm off to Home Depot, equally Chinese, and get some pieces of 1/2" plywood. I'll cut the ply into two 12 X 18 inch pieces. I also need to pick up four 2" U-bolts. I'll drill the ply wood to accept the the engine mounting fingers of the engine stands and four holes to place two U-bolts that will around the front and rear spreader bars on the frame. Actually I could use 1 inch round wood and smaller U bolts. Then I could place the wood between the frame horns and use bog screws to hold in in place. I'll add pictures when I finish it. Tequila Bob
I do Packard frames that way. I don't use plywood, or any wood for that matter. Too heavy! I cut and drilled some 3" angle iron to bolt to the ends. From experience, get help to roll it over. It could tip pretty easy, but then again Ford frames are about 1/2 the mass. Good for you. It works like a champ.
Well, at least you can say your rotisserie was made in America! I've seen others do this, works well.
Used the same idea for a Willys chassis I did, though I used angle iron and square tubing for the attachment points to the frame rails. MAKE SURE you have help when it comes time to turn the frame.....it gets more than a bit unstable as the frame is turned and the center of gravity of the whole works changes. The other thing I did to stabilize things was to make a connecter to tie the two engine stands together at the bottom.....either hard weld a piece of square tubing to the legs or a bracket on each with a connecter. I for sure would NOT use any type of wood. Steel and nuts/bolts is the answer.
at least I'm not the only one to come up with alternative uses for my engine stand! I got a free one from my FIL last week and I'm building up tilting table top to bolt onto it for small welding projects. I hinged the mounting plate so I will be able to rotate the table in two directions. now that I've got two engine stands I will also be able to unbolt the table top and use it as a rotisserie like you guys are discussing
years ago when I worked at Fatmans, we used a similar set up with the engine stands but we used tubing welded to the male part of the engine stand with two pieces of tubing coming off of the stringer to bolt to the bumper bracket holes in the frame. It makes finish welding/grinding a lot easier as well as painting!
I had two engine stands to build mine. I only used the rotating tubing and built two strong bases, adding the rotating tubes. The secret is the balance point, so you need a way to adjust the height. First time I turned mine over, but when you find the balance point all is well. I would never work on a restoration again without one. Here is my full length feature film about the adventure. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuDHfe_MeVQ
Just a thought, if you attached one engine stand on the bottom of the frame and the other on the top of the frame, as a counter balance, it might help out. Like others have said, please post pics.
run a ratchet strap from the base of each stand and put a small amount of tension, that will help them from tipping in on each other
I used 2 engine stands when building my 35 Ford chassis.I mounted a piece of 2"angle iron to the chassis and attached the adjustable engine mount to them. It's important to get the center balance point and proper heigth inorder to be able to spin it without tipping over. I was able to turn my chassis by myself with no additional help. Wouldn't do it any other way in the future.
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