First engine build: 8ba Ford Flathead

I don't think so, does anyone know where the timing gear section gets its lubrication from?

Anyhow, I took that screw out, with the help of a screwdriver bit and a breaker bar. I removed the rear cover for the oil pump idler, but I didn't have a puller to remove the idler gear itself.

Today, I loaded the block up in the truck, and took off to Waco, TX, the home of Precision Machine. I talked with the owner (Jack) and got to see a little bit of the facility. Super nice folks, and I'm happy to be dealing with them. I got to see a wild 526 Hemi dragster there too. They asked how I had heard of the place, and I told them Mr. Ford had sent me.

They both nodded knowingly. Maybe they got a haircut from him at some point.

Anyhow, talk about fast turnaround; they said they'd have it cleaned and magnafluxed by Tuesday! (Monday being a holiday and all). I'm pumped!

-Nev

 

I figured it out; there is an oil slinger on the front of the crank that oils the two gears.

 

Okay, an update: I talked with the folks at Precision Machine in Waco, and the block has no cracks. Unfortunately, the one cylinder that we saw that had so much corrosion won't clean up with just a hone; there's some pitting. I am now thinking about what size I want to go to. The owner of the company and I had talked about doing a sonic test to see if there was any core shift in the block. It would be nice to go big with the block, but I have to be realistic in parts prices too, with no job.

Anyone have any insight to what size I should go to?

-Nev

 

I would not go any bigger than absolutely necessary, then you will hopefully leave enough 'meat' in it to allow it to be rebuilt again in the future. Hopefully not too soon though

My advice is once you have found a good machine shop, listen to them. That way you will learn the easier way.

I'm fairly new to engine building as well and I made some painful and costly mistakes in the beginning that I have now learnt from.

Best of luck,
Mark.

 

Building a car can be a financial strain with a job!

 

Yeah, I agree with that. I'm trying to barter and swap my way along, and it's working out ok so far!

 

I just wanted to say thanks for all the detailed information! I have the same books you mentioned in the start of this project, and you have been more help than the book!

Thanks again, and good luck

 

I had a gouged #6 cylinder that had already been sleeved, so to save money i just had it resleeved to the same size .030 and used the piston and rings as they were still good. I think that would be the most economical way for you to go IMO

 

Thanks for the kind words! The block is still at the machine shop. I need to call them on Monday and find out where we're at. I wanted to get the block sonic tested to see if there was any core shift that would keep me from going large bore if I want to. The machine shop did report that the block passed Magnaflux testing, so at a minimum all is well for now.

I'd have to order a minimum of one replacement piston, because of the bad bore that I had. Forcing the old piston and rings through that bore more than likely took that piston out.

I'm selling some stuff that I don't need to get coin for building the engine up; really, it's the last big expense thing that I can think of for the rest of my life.

 

I would replace pistons in eights. No less. The expense of doing it right is much less than doing it twice!

Order the pistons and rings, fit the rings to the pistons and then take them to the machine shop; that way they can machine the block to suit the exact size of the pistons.

My advice anyway.

 

I hear that, Terry. The last time I spoke with someone at the machine shop, I talked about the sonic testing. I guess I kind of expect them to tell me how big I can go.

 

Great thread you've got started here Nevala, I'm currently building a flattie myself. Unfortunately I forget to take pics but I do have a few and heres a link to my build if your interested in checking it out http://www.ratrodnation.com/forum/r...find-28-31-tudor-while-i'm-building-my-motor/ . I also sent you a PM here about a guy who has tons of NOS FoMoCo flattie parts and the prices are right. Good luck with yours and let me know if that guy is able to help you out with any parts.

 

Good luck with you build.

If you have to bore it, go BIG

 

Great thread, any updates on the build?

 

The block is still at the machine shop. Because this is my first interaction with a machine shop, I don't really know what I need to do next. This is where I'm at:

The machine shop had the sonic testing done, and it produced the following sheet:

I talked to Jack at Precision Machine when he gave me the sonic test sheet, and he discussed bore sizes. Because of my unfamiliarity with what the sizes mean and such, I remember that the conversation went with him being conservative on bore sizes and me with large bore and stroke sizes in my head.

He was supposed to look up information on kits for the engine and get back to me, but I think it's kinda low priority on their end. I'm not really a bossy kind of guy (ask anyone who's met me), so I haven't pushed anything, and I haven't talked to them for a long time now.

I have been thinking of calling them up, or going up there and will probably do that this week. I'll update the thread with info when I do.
​

 

Thats pretty cool. There is something for us both to learn. Been following this thread and am glad to see ya re-surface!

 

camshaft has a passage from cam to front of cam that has pressured oil from cam bearing to lube cam gear to distributer gear and timing cover. If reusing old cam be sure to clean it out.

 

First, there are many on the board with much more knowledge than I. That being said, your motor has been bored .030 during the last build. There is insufficent material on the sleeved left bank to bore any further. As such, I would consider re-sleeving your problem cylinder. Your machine shop should be able to confirm whether the other 7 cylinders will clean up with a hone.

You may be able to determine the brand and part number of the pistons used on the last build. If they are still available, you could purchase a single piston and balance it to the other 7. Otherwise, your in for a full set of 8 at .030 over. Any larger and you will have to re-sleeve the entire left bank.

Great project and read. Good to hear your on the mend.

 

Looks to me like you got water through the intake, I could see the rust in the intake ports. I just finished my 8ba rebuild, here are a couple of tips! do not try to drive that stuck piston out from the top!!!! the dome on the piston will flatten out thereby expanding the piston which will crack the cylinder. When you change to adjustable lifters you need to drill the base of the lifter bores so you can use a small punch or drift to hold the lifters so you can adjust them. Using the old style wrenches to adjust them is a pain in the backside!
Tony

 

Right. All 4 left side are sleeved right now. So what I will probably end up doing is getting all 4 re-sleeved. The question I have is what is the largest piston size I can safely run.

 

My suggestion (given your interest in going larger than the .030 current bore) would be to limit the over bore to .080 (.050 larger than current).

This will keep the cylinder wall thickness greater than .125" at the thinnest area (front side of the 3rd cylinder on the right bank).

Just my opinion, but this is removing a lot of life (and future rebuilds) from an old flatty block all at one go. Not to mention adding a fair bit of expense to your build. Tough decisions no doubt.

 

Another thing to keep in mind though is pistons are usually cheaper when bought in commonly used over sizes. That being said I would go with .125 over. Ol' Ron on the fordbarn swears by the combo of 3 3/4" stroke and 3 5/16" bore. My machine shop said it cost the same to go .060 or .125 over. Remember on a flatty cubic inches are your friend.
Matt

 

Well, the 8ba block has been at the machine shop for well over a year. In the meantime I've picked up a couple of 59a blocks and I'm getting them stashed in the garage, for eventual tear down. I believe that there is a machine shop in San Antonio that does flathead work, so I'll be trying them out this time.

 

Wow thats a longtime however it did take me around 6 months to get my block back just from having valve seats put in. Carried mine to a different shop having it balanced and bored now can't wait to get it together and hear her run.

 

The guys cooked it, magnafluxed it, and sonic tested it. Last words with them were that they were going to look up the price of a kit for it, and never got back to me. I'm almost embarrassed to call them. It's been really odd.

 

yep, I'm impressed with your research. nice read. you're on it.

 

I stayed on the phone with the guy who had my block after the first couple of months Turned out the owner wasn't being very truthful he siad they had put half the seats in when really they hadn't done anything. Finally talked to another guy at the shop and he got my stuff done and back to in a week after we spoke.

 

Here are a few links to some rebuild kits. This one includes forged pistons but not cam.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/hpkits-ford.html


<TABLE style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=1 cellSpacing=0 borderColor=#a6a6a6 cellPadding=3 width="100%" bgColor=#ffffff><TBODY><TR><TD height=36 vAlign=top noWrap align=left>Ford 239 3.9
Flathead
1949-53
</TD><TD height=36 vAlign=top align=left>3.1875</TD><TD height=36 vAlign=top align=left>Stocking or custom forged pistons (F/T or Dome), any stroke or rod, w/plasma moly rings (Except w/Ross stocking pistons), bores from 3.189-3.386, Fel-Pro gaskets, main, rod & cam bearings, High Volume Oil Pump, timign set, performance wrist pins, mech lifters (limited amounts) (no cam)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Forgot the other link. Flatlanderracing does offer a stock rebuild kit with a reground cam. The link on the previous post is their upgraded kit. Here is another link also.

http://www.cleggengine.com/engine-r...v8-239-cid-engine-rebuild-kits-1949-1953.html

Price is $724.67

 

Wow! $1289