ive put a few cars together but nothing this old this is my first old type hot rod build. the car is the one in my pic <------ my question is i have to get a new front crossmemeber. i see some offer ones that have some drop in them. where would be the best one to get i read on here that the stamped ones were a little weak?? and i am going to run it as a full fendered car and want it to sit low...how much drop should i be looking to get overall and still be able to run the fenders? like to have the back sit up a little bit but i think i can get that when i drop the spring behind the rear axle. i just wasnt sure how much of a drop axle and spring i should be looking at. I dont think i am going to step or Z the frame any just because of running fenders and orig. hood and side shields. any help would be great. I hope i put in all the info need to have the question answered....thanks again.
Save your self a bunch of grief, look at some of the after market folks that have been doing this for years. That old frame you have is a real big trouble spot looking for a person to happen on!
other then the front crossmember being bad i thought that the frame on it was pretty solid just needed boxed. i can post some pics of it tomorrow to see what ya think. like before kinda new to this style build
Explain?? His original frame in particular or all all Model A frames are trouble? Cause me and 8 bazillion other guys running model A frames want to know what the "real big trouble spot" is. And to the OP, you can modify the original, flatten it, or buy an aftermarket one.
okay i will start looking into some of the aftermarket ones cause the stock one is almost broke in two. yeah the only part on my frame is some light pitting on top where the body sat...but other then that the frame is in better shape then the truck i am driving daily haha
Nothing wrong with using a stock A frame as a basis, lots of them in use. I would look for an original A front crossmember in good or repairable shape. This would be nicer to install than the common aftermarket ones made to weld inside an already boxed frame. A slight Z the width of the frame in the back will really help get the rear down and the tires in up in the fenders. Then box the frame and go to town with mounts etc. The Z would require a little rework of the subframe; but nothing complex. An aftermarket reversed eye spring and dropped axle will get the front down where it belongs.
Build suspension around the desired ride height....plan on a kick up in rear, if your going to have it anywhere near low....
probably best to pick up the book by Mike Bishop called " How To Build A Traditional Ford Hot Rod" at this point. Read it twice, even if you don't intend to do a flat head, and then keep it handy throughout your build. It gives some very specific demensions to cut the rear of the frame at to do a mild Z which will really help get this down. As for the front cross member, I would also look for a good stocker replacement rather than after market, then run a dropped axle and properly set up spring at front end to get the car down. Although I am aware that Speedway makes a dropped cross member for Model "A" frames, most of the time that statement is aimed at '32 frames. The old trick was to run a "A" cross member in the '32 frame which dropped the nose an inch.
I made mine out of 1/4" wall thickness trailer hitch receiver tubing. Cut out one side w/ cut-off wheel. It makes for a flat crossmember that will fit a 1 3/4" spring. Frame will need to be notched to clear spring.
you probably wont need to use a front X member with a drop in it if your going to run fenders..Im running a 4" drop front axle and pulled 2 leafs out and its as low as I want to go, Im running a stock front X member or go 1" drop on the front X member and 3" on the axle. be careful dropping the front X member too much,, than radiator and grille fit will come into play, these things matter on a full fender A rod, and keeping the front tires from hitting
If you want,go with a brookville frame;cheap,low or no freight and it will make the car go together much easier. they can put in the nutserts for your fenders,etc. Great peole to deal with.
THANKS for all the info guys!! That is about how i am looking to set mine up but with a little chop and maybe run hood sides. I do have that book i just need run through it a couple more times. i will start the look for a stock x memeber hope to start a build thread soon
..thanks man It took me a while to settle on a color, didnt like anything, so black it was. It aint perfect, but its a hot rod ..needs some pin stripes now
Damn Von Rigg Fink, I'm liking that more every time I see it! That rear three quarters view is killer!!
Thanks Boss, Im workin my ass off to get a chance to roll it this summer before the snow takes a hold
Nice looking Tudor! One thing to think about for you. It' s probably easier to live with a stock crossmember, because a dropped one will decrease your suspension travel. And once it's in there, you are stuck with it. Probably better to use dropped axle and or reversed eye springs. That's my 2 cents.
Are most aftermarket A front crossmembers designed to be welded between boxing plates instead like the original? I was able to find a decent used original when replacing the blown out piece on my chassis. Bolt it in, weld it in after bolting, take bolts out and weld up the bolt holes.
You can always change the main leaf to raise it some or add some spacers....if I ever do another Tudor, It will get a flat crossmember and a super low posie ......its easier to raise a low car, than to lower a high car...lol.......i'll take mine with some Schneider marks on the tops of the fenders....
lol........ just stay off us-23 and michigan ave and you may ,make it lol...... how you been, damn that turned out tits !!!!!!!!!!!! gonna have to come back north soon to see you guys and gals
Hey Dave Come on up...the beer taste the same,I owe you one any ways.. Yeah no taking on Bambi in that one i forgot to mention to the OP..i have a reverse eye spring out front, that gives a bit more lowering. my closest body part is 5-1/4" to the ground,(front apron, and at where the running board meets the front fender) front axle in the center is about 4-1/2" or so I may find this needs something once on the road, but feels good where its at
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