Hi all, I was hoping someone could answer my question about how to properly adjust wheel bearings for a 1953 Buick? I just got all new bearings and seals for the front end, and I'd like to know how to do it properly. I have been talking to my Dad, and he said that the process of tightening bearings is usually you snug the nut up, then back them off a quarter to half a turn, and put the cotter pin in. But then he said that this is what you do for tapered bearings. As you probably know, stock bearings on a 53 Buick are not tapered. So, do you tighten these ball bearings the same as tapered bearings? I really don't want to chew these bearings up, so any help is appreciated!
MoToR's says: "tighten the spindle nut with a 10" wrench until bearings are preloaded at least one hex on the nut. Rotate wheel at least one revolution to make sure bearings are seated." "Back off spindle nut until bearings are loose. Then retighten until until looseness is just removed then line up nut to nearest cotter pin hole and install pin."
Thanks Dale, I found the manual for my Buick, and found the same. Ok, so, what does it mean when it says 'bearings are preloaded at least one hex on the nut' ??? I appreciate the help, I just got the new spindles, bearings and seals yesterday. How do I get the outer spindle off? Is it tapered? Thanks again!
I believe it should read "One flat of the hex". As to your new question, I'm not following you-what do you mean by "outer spindle"?.
Oh okay, that makes more sense to me. Thanks! I'm sorry, I'm still getting the lingo down. I didn't mean to call it the outer spindle, I meant what the outer bearing rolls on, I think the manual calls it the cone? The outer cone is stuck, can I use some force to get it off? I don't think the cone is supposed to be stuck to the spindle like it is...the manual says 'when inspecting or replacing bearings cones (inner races) make sure that cones are free to creep on spindle of steering knuckle. The cones are designed to creep on the spindle in order to afford a constantly changing load contact between the cones and the ball bearings'. Am I interpreting this right? That cones, or the inner races, are supposed to move freely on the spindle? The inner cones are moveable, but both outer ones are absolutely stuck...I guess I found out why the bearings got chewed? Thanks for the help and walking me through this
Well, I'm going to have to use some force to break the old outer cones loose, cause I have to get them off so I can put the new ones on hehe. I guess what I'm asking is what is the easiest way to accomplish this and not damage the spindle?
I think you are still mixing up your terminology. The outer cone is the one under the nut, and it comes off first, before the hub. It has to slide freely on the spindle. The inner cone is bigger, and goes on the spindle first. It is a tight fit. Sometimes you even have to split the old one to get it off, after 50 years or so they don't move so easy!
Ugh, I'm sorry, I think I'm just making all this more complicated than it really is, I can't even get the names right!
How about I take some pictures tomorrow and post them, so you have something to look at? I think that would be easier...
I think what they're saying is, as you're slowly tightening the spindle nut, turn the spindle and rock it back and forth so you can feel any clearance in the bearings. You should hear and feel some clunking while doing this. Eventually you'll feel no clearance and the spindle will become slightly harder to turn. At this point, stop turning the spindle nut and look at the position of one of the flats on the hex nut. Then continue tightening the nut until the next "flat" is in the same position that you observed earlier (one eighth of a turn on an eight sided nut). This slightly preloads the bearing so there is no clearance and there is a slight resistance when turning the spindle. As the bearing runs in after awhile most of this resistance will disappear. After a couple thousand miles you may want to go thru this procedure again if you can detect any clearance in the bearings.
Thanks for the willingness to help me everyone, it's kinda tough going through all this for the first time solo, I appreciate it. I'll post pics tomorrow!
I think you are talking about the races the bearings ride on. If that is the case you need to drive them out. I use a chisel or punch to remove them.
ClayMart, I'm not sure I've ever seen an eight-sided nut. Bearings normally consist of three parts, the cone, the rollers, and the cup. The smallest diameter part is called the cone, and it is what GLinOH is referring to. It sounds like the outer cone is seized to the spindle. Do whatever you need to in order to get it off, but if you end up grinding or cutting, be careful to not damage the spindle. With ball bearings, the cone should rotate freely on the area of the spindle that it rides on. The reasoning is that, since ball bearings have such an extremely small contact area, brinelling of the metal can occur quite easily. When they are tightened properly, the cone will slowly turn on the spindle as the hub/wheel/tire loading changes, (ie, when the weight is unloaded from the bearing/spindle interface when the wheel hits a bump and rebounds, etc.) This eventually exposes the entire contact surface of the cone to the most extreme loading, which is normally on the bottom (6 o'clock position) of the cone. If yours are siezed, you'll need to dress the spindle with a fine tooth file or emery cloth to remove any high spots of metal, to make sure that the cone will spin freely. I like to use a file because it leaves a level surface, whereas emery cloth can smooth it, but may still leave high spots that can cause a repeat of the failure. Tighten the bearings as Dale Fairfax says, which is tight to the point of no play, then another one-sixth of a turn to make sure that the inner cone is seated against the back of the spindle. Spin the wheel a few rounds to make sure things are OK, then back off the nut until you can feel a VERY slight looseness (grab the tire and wiggle it, you'll figure it out), then install the cotter pin in the next LOOSEST slot in the castle nut.
DUH???? HEX nut... SIX sides! LOL! Don't metric nuts have 8 sides? Wait... I think they got 10! I'll go back later and edit my post, then we'll see who looks foolish.
Ok, I got some help from my boyfriend and I got the new wheel bearings on and tightened down correctly. No more squealing! Thanks to everyone for their help, I really appreciate it!
tighten up till you feel drag and backoff a quarter or whatever tyou need to put cotterpin in ,My guess you have ball bearing races........Tolerances for them is 6 thousands ,You cant measure that.
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