has anyone used these,.... I did a search and didnt see anything... there from a stock car site.. Lefthander Chassis... 3/4 inch threaded x 1 1/8 od hex..up too 19 inch long there $13 ... each.... any thoughts.?????
there advertised as this.... my friend has been using them for years on his stock car.. and never had an issue... why not aluminum on a street car??? they come as long as 48" .... Aluminum Hex - 3/4" • LH/RH Fine Threads • 1 1/8" O.D. Hex • 3/4" Thread • These Raw Aluminum Tubes Can Be Polished For A Custom Look Using Rubbing Compound
Those hex bars (and the much more common round bars) are and have been used in dirt and asphalt racing for 30 years. They're used for lower links on a 3 link, all 4 links on a 4 bar car, as well as in Z or Watts link rear suspensions. They can also be used on brake floaters but the trend has been to smaller tubes for that. They generally have a right hand thread heim on one end and a left hand thread heim on the other, and a jam nut on one of the heims. 3/4" ID used to be the norm, but 5/8" is common now days. Keep in mind these are meant to be used on lightweight (2200-2500#) race cars. I wouldn't be afraid to use them on a street car as long as it didn't weigh too much.
thanx pops1532..... I was planning on using them on my 35 pu... fenderless and a 2.3 ..t5 combo.... it should weigh no more than #2500..... ill do a little more research.. thanx again.. Roy
Wouldn't be a bit afraid of them. Most dirt late models and modifieds actually use 5/8" tubes and heims now. The 3/4 stuff started dissappearing on the dirt around 10 years ago and 5/8" holds up fine. The 3/4 was way overkill for us. Many 5/8 heims are now using 1/2" bolts with either spacers or special heims. Instead of using anti sieze on the threads, use high impact grease. It'll stay in place longer than anti sieze will. If you are interested, I'll get you the grease part number. The pics below are 5/8" tubes, you'll never put those forces on your truck. Buy the best heims you can, that's the weakest point, not the tube. The hex stuff is stronger than the round bars from my experience. Another source would be Howe racing in Michigan. SPark Go for it.
Only one jam nut? Well thinking about it, I guess that's all you'd need to keep the bar from turning. Never thought about that before.....
I recommend jam nuts on both ends. The non-jammed end will "work" in the tube and kill the threads and swell the end of the tube. It is correct that one will lock things in place but the unlocked heim will work back and forth all the time. Most race car stuff gets replaced before you see too much wear, walls always win. JMO, SPark
I would actually advise against the swedge steel tubes. They seem to break easier than the aluminum ones. We have to run them by rules but I would rather run the aluminum, much more forgiving. Another style is the moly or DOM threaded tubes. Most moly are welded and most DOM are simply threaded DOM tubing. We use the DOM stuff in upper a-frames on the right and swedge on the left. Seems to work out ok. SPark
Here may be an even better option. Greasable, no weakened heims, high quality parts. Very nice stuff. http://out-pace.com/ SPark
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