My kid is rebuilding a 318 (LA) engine - his mechanic buddy puts on new double link timing chain and gears but doesn't install the oil tab (little triangular piece to deflect oil to timing chain). He doesn't think it is needed but I think it is necessary to direct enough oil onto chain to ensure it doen't self destruct. Engine is in truck - minor details to finish before startup and I'm saying to stop the work right now and pull the front end off the motor and put the tab on. The kid can't afford to redo this engine again!!! Mopar folks - Am I right? Thanks in advance!
I agree, just want to make sure I'm not missing something here -ie does the double link chain make it not necessary. I have been trying to get a definitive answer from Clevite but only vague comments so far. Figured I would tap into the people who really know on this board. Thanks
Put it on - Moapr SBs are hard on chains as it is. Some SBM had a hole drilled in the top left had bolt on the thrust plate to allow valley oil to drip onto the chain as well. Do it. Rat
Moparmike - there aren't any clearance issues are there? I didn't get a chance to see the front end when they put it together but his old motor looks like lots of space. Yup - the Kid says if you think we need it - we will do it! Gotta like it - he believes his old man. By the way, this engine is going into a really nice OT truck (86 Dodge truck-redone and very clean) right now but will likely eventually end up in his 54 International.
Mopar LA's get their oil to the timing chain via the oil galley plug behind the upper timing gear. the oil galley plug has a small orifice in it to allow the oil to bleed through and lubricate the timing gears and chain. also dont forget to install the oil slinger on the crank snout before you install the timing cover. the 'oil tab' is it on the inside of the timing cover?
just a thought but if there arnt any clearance issues and it was on there from the factory bolt it up for good measure.
moparob - The tab bolts to the bottom left (from the front) bolt on the cam thrust plate and projects down. It has a bend in it to divert the oil from the open hole out to the chain (this is my interpretation of what it does). Thanks everyone - this will be installed this weekend. Appreciate the quick responses!
I will check to make sure the slinger is on as well. Thanks for the reminder. I think maybe I need to do a pretty thorough checkover before we fire it up. This should actually be a pretty sweet little motor - he set it up to be a bit of a torquer instead of a revver.
I would make sure the chain slinger is on there. All of the motors don't have the bolt with the hole drilled in it. I drill the bolt just for good luck when I find one that doesn't have it.
Much appreciated! just talked to the Kid and we are going to make sure it is right. Any other small block tips? I have done several 440's but this is the first small block.
haha The Kid and I have 3 318's going right now (we both have 54 Internationals that will have 318's and his 86) so I guess I better get "learned up" on them. I've had several over the years, just had no reason to take them apart!! Thanks - will probably be asking more questions later. Actually, these seem a whole lot easier than the Chevy stuff I'm used to!
the later LA and Magnum model timing chain tensioner/retainer doohicky costs like 30bucks (or did) and bolts right to the older smallblocks. rick
Does this tensioner provide any benefits for low rpm engines? This engine will not see high rpm at all. Thanks - I will look into it but would appreciate your response. I think I am looking forward to digging into this engine!
works best at idle, since that's when timing chain slack gets all sloppy hoppy, but basically it's just better timing control all around. -rick
I have not done one in a while but from what I have read the tensioner is a good upgrade to the older motors.
The tensioner is a good upgrade but if your a running a mild cam with mild valves springs you probably won't need it. Its us to you - it won't hurt to install but imo it sin't really needed for a mild, lo rpm engine if you are using a quality chain. Good luck... Rat
Lots of folks bust on the 318's but I know guys that have gotten well into the 12's with them and NO nitrous! I just took the 360 out of my Bluesmobile replica that had (and I am NOT exaggerating!) TWO HUNDRED AND SIXTY THOUSAND miles on it with only a few timing chains every hundred thousand or so, and one oil pump / rear main seal job. The heads have never been off of it! It still ran like a champ and never smoked, but the oil pressure was slowly getting lower & lower over the years. I found another 360 on Craigslist and put that one in. If you need some good mopar advice you can check out Moparts.org, allpar.com, and / or PM me too!
Thanks all - we are going to tear it back apart next weekend and fix it properly. I have always been a fan of small block mopars (big block too of course!) and have had several but they have always been so reliable they never needed anything other than carb kits and consumables like alternators etc - never anything inside. The Kid's truck has about 250,000km (155,000 miles) on the original engine, still running OK but he decided to build a new one to drop in. Completely rebuilt short block by quality shop here so that part is OK but I want to check out the work done by his mechanic buddy now that I found the oil tab missing (purely by accident too - luckily). We have decided to go through it carefully and recheck it. I really appreciate the responses - confirms what I was thinking.
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