ANSEN Wheels done differently...here are mine (PICS)

The hub and drum's black would hide them. By painting them the same way as your centers, it may work to blend them together.

 

those are sweet! I have a set you can do next . . . .

hahahaha

thanks!

 

I am a little concerned about the fact that the rear wheels are UNILUG, but I figure if people ran them for years and the companies kept producing them then they can't be too bad. I would drag with them, but I think daily romping around town and the occasional run to a carshow or cruise won't hurt. I found a resource for the unilug washers...I just hope they're correct.

 

I'm not sure why you're using 2 different paints.
I just finished a similar treatment on some wheels for my OT VW Ghia. I used a urethane single stage called Gunsmoke from TCP Global's Hot Rod Flatz line. It's low sheen so it's a pretty convincing cast look without being dead flat and therefore dirt and stain prone. The color is maybe a little on the dark side.
I would advise against a rustoleum paint. You want something more durable like an automotive paint. Also, the primer will be key to durability on aluminum. I used epoxy, which claimed use on alum., but think I would have been better off with an etching primer.

 

Those really look slick.

 

I used SEM self etching primer and it REALLY bites into the aluminum. The ONLY reason I was using two paints was because KHT cast grey is a perfect color for what I want and the Rustoleum has a texture. I was thinking about trying KHT wrinkle finish and then their cast gray over that, but not sure the wrinkle finish would look appropriate. I'll admit that I'm slightly concerned with the Rustoleum and may scrap the idea of using it as an undercoat / undertexture because my latest idea was to bake the wheels so that the hitemp KHT was more durable against road rash.

 

When I had the shop, I advised a customer with slotted 'mags' to have vonFranco airbrush some 'window-radaii'...Not sure if Franco himself did 'em, (we were real busy then) but the guy had somebody do 'em... put 'em on his Cameo and they were the talk of '50s Nite.
I had to walk up and inspect 'em, they looked that real.

 

Honestly, there's no easy way. I rolled the wheel on it's lip and rolled the tape the opposite direction...checking the straightness and location of it inch by inch. I was trying to figure out an easier way...I'm just not sure there is one.

 

OK, gotcha. You did say Rusto for texture. My wheels had a nubby finish that I was carefull not to smooth out except on the outer lip. You're right, I don't think a wrinkle finish would have the cast texture. How about bead or sand blast first?

 

I may sandblast and extra wheel I have to see what happens. I was apprehensive about doing this because I wasn't sure what to mask the edges with so that the sand didn't hurt the inner rim area that I plan on having polished. I don't think green or blue mask tape would hold up well. I heard that gorilla tape would stand up to the abuse but the residue would be a mess...

 

I'll take a stab here: How would gorilla tape over the blue hold up? Some good ideas are coming about with this thread.

 

TURNTABLE! And a brush and liquid mask. Easy peasy.

 

Looks nice. Definetly a lot of work, but you've done it right.

 

Damn Slammed...you nailed that one!

A turntable would be perfect, but it needs to be very sturdy and heavier than the wheel.

 

Yeah, shit you don't want to blast any of that polished lip you worked so long on. It shouldn't need but a light blasting to give a slight cast profile. Duct tape should work. Sandblasting has a hard time effecting soft surfaces. You'd know if you ever sandblasted rubberized undercoating. Any tape residue will come off with acetone or lacq. thinner.

 

You know what, I think I am going to just sandblast the damn things. Then I'll shoot the KHT HiTemp and have it baked like I originally planned. I'll have to use KHT HiTemp primer instead of self etching, but then these things will be much more impervious to any road rash issues. I wonder what the temp limit is on aluminum wheels? Anyone know?

 

Not really sure why they get such a bad rap.Had a set of et unilugs on a shortbox chevy truck with a big block in it in high school.I had more touble with keeping rubber on the back rims than lug nuts coming loose.I wasnt gentle with that truck and i dont remeber any of the lug nuts ever coming loose.

 

personaly i like the spinner! er knock off, whats the story on it? what kind.how does it mount. wheels look good,REAL GOOD!

 

I just came back from the garage...tested the KHT over the Rustoleum just so I know if they are compatible or not. Guess what, it's a NO GO. The KHT caused the Rustoleum to wrinkle. Guess that's one more reason to sandblast the centers. Here I go...sandblasting a perfectly good aluminum wheel. I'll ket you know how it turns out this weekend.

 

Way cool. Wish I was smart enough to think of that paint scheme.

Piper106

 

I like it!

 

I'd like to see an update. And here's a scan from the March 65 Hot Rod with some Aluminum Astros (yes, they did!) with a dark center, and a Penney's add with some dark center slot mags (way down in the lower left of the ad).

 

I admire the amount of work that you are putting into these, but for my eye, it makes them look to much like a modern style of wheel by having the plain lip. That is the current design fashion in wheels. I like the step in the lip, keeps the old wheel look to it. But hey, that's just my worthless opinion. Then again I don't like fake knockoffs when you can see the lug nuts wither.

 

I am not huge on knock-offs...but that rim looks killer

 

Different perspectives are so funny....I completely understand where you are coming from BUT, old Halibrands had no outer lip and thus, is why I've done the whole lip removal program on wheels in the past. I think what's making these wheels look a bit too modern is the "high end" spinner attached in an obviously foney-baloney method. If it had those fluted pressure plate type hats, I think it would help immensely. I agree with the bare lugnut thing though...basic, looks good, down to business.

 

That's what I was thinking... I wonder how even they are all the way around??? The lead weights are gonna be heavy on one side of the rim...

 

You're right, some Halibrands did, some didn't.


Those without had a very rounded look to the lip though, not flat (although I have seen a few that were flat). Seems like more had the step on the lip than didn't

 

Yeah, when it comes to Halibrands, there is no normal.

 

Originally Posted by Buzznut
I am a little concerned about the fact that the rear wheels are UNILUG, but I figure if people ran them for years and the companies kept producing them then they can't be too bad. I would drag with them, but I think daily romping around town and the occasional run to a carshow or cruise won't hurt. I found a resource for the unilug washers...I just hope they're correct.

Not to Hijack here. But anyone got a link or source for unilug washers & lugnuts? I'm having a damned hard time finding the right thigs here in town.
Oh yea, Those wheels look tits! i like what your doing
Thanks

 

I like the idea of improving the cheap and available slots. Back when I polished bike frames for rent, I did a similar thing.

Your order of work is screwing you up man. I would clean up the wheel and paint it, with a rough masking and intentional spray over. It sands away, and then you do you final steel wool and polishing. Scotchbrite disks are good for cutting through any heavy paint spots. You end up with a nice defined paint line if you sand to an inner "bodyline" of the wheel.

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