Hi mater, That's a great truck ya got. Keep us posted. Got a friend here with an original early 50's binder. She bought it at a local estate auction for peanuts in a small neighboring town. Had someone fix the brakes, added tires, etc. I drove it once and man that thing is a HAND FULL! You don't really drive it as much as "herd" it around.
Cool truck. If i remember right my dad's 71 cornbinder tow truck had leaf springs and a straight axle under the front. It had power steering. I you could ever find one you could keep it in the binder family
Sorry, it's a mustang II. I kinda wish I had just a lowered straight axle in it sometimes. Thanks for the link to binder books. It doesn't look like they have the vent window rubber I need but the prices on the the other rubber is better.
Hello long time no write. Mater may be starting a hole new adventure.Thinking long and hard about swapping his body on to a 96 half ton Chevy frame. Anyone heard done or considered doing this. Seams to be a fairly decent fit.Any comments welcomed.
For clips and rubber products check out Restoration Specalties. They have all the rubber for my 1949 KB1, plus all the grill clips and window channels.Also the headlight rings and buckets are the same from 1947 on through as long as they are round. they also interchange with Ad Chev.s in the late 40s and early 50s
"Swindle", "to get money or property from another under false pretenses, to cheat or defraud ". Just remember that what goes around comes around.
The 48 dude busted ya on the swindle comment. I am sure you didn't swindle him, but may have gotten a good deal. I like this truck, please don't go with the new frame. Good luck man. ~sololobo~
I'm sure he's referring to the first post of this thread. I've used the word "swindle" outside of here, but it can get taken out of context when you're just reading it. You made an offer and he accepted it, it's negotiating. But I digress. In regards to the frame swap, that might work but if the frame is in good shape, why waste it? I've seen a couple Mustang II setups on here, including pools that seem to work well. I'm looking at doing that with mine as well (also dropping a 383 stroker in it ). If you do end up needing or still look to do a frame swap, check out dakotas. They seem to have the right wheel base, particularly the right width for these trucks as the frames tend to be narrower than other '50s pickups with equally available parts for it. Check out http://oldihc.org/ there is a ton of information there for the 'binders. And join here if you haven't already. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=366
It has been six months since i have looked at my first page or any page for that matter. I had forgotten what i had written didn't really mean swindle as you stated i out bargained him. But he still got what he had into it. So he was happy that it woulden't go to waste. He was considering parting it out but didn't really want to. He also wanted me to send him a picture of it when it was done. But i am beginning to wonder if he will still be alive by the time it is done. Thanks for the reminder of what i wrote. I measured the wheelbase on my 96 chevy and it is a couple of inches wider than the international. And real close on the length. The chevy wheelbase is a little longer maybe two inches which would center the wheels in both wheel wells alot better than they are now.
For some reason i keep thinking this is a good idea. I have measured both trucks wheelbase and track. They seem to be a next to perfect fit the 96 chevy is 131 inch wheelbase which seems to me would move front tire foreword 2 inches and back tire back 2 inches since 57 IH is 127 inch wheelbase.which would make the tires sit perfectly center of the wheel wells since from the factory they are a little off center. The track is about three inches wider on the 96 chevy. which would bring both tires out about a inch and a half also more pleasing to the eye since they sit back in wheel wells quite a bit from factory.
No sir, this is a traditional family, and you will make more friends keeping the originallity and some upgrades here and there. Safety upgrades that kind of thing. The more original the more this forum will appreciate your rigg. Very nice and thanks for posting the progress. Remeber you have a somewhat rare piece there, so preserving it is what rolls best around here. I hope I helped you understand sir.
What mods would you start with the thing barely steers it locks up all the time and wont turn at all. The drum brakes are shot and even if they were fully restored would still suck wanker. I am not wanting to put thousands into this truck so high tech front ends that are way over priced and still have to be welded on are not really a option. And even if i did rebuild steering gear since all bearings fell out on the floor it would still be a sucky manual steering system. So tell me somebody please what is my cheapest best option to get this truck rollin as a everyday driver or at least something that my wife can wheel around which means good brakes and no strong arm steering.I agree that original is cool but not as practical driving in the real world today. fifty four years ago driving er to the general store was a piece of cake.
there is nothing wrong with doing the frame swap. i have seen frame swaps done right and they work, i have also seen some freakin scary ones. if it was me i would use the stock frame and clip it from the firewall forward with whatever suspension you want, seams easier to me, just my opinion. dont listen to the "you shouldnt do that to your rig because its not what i like" folks, its your truck and your wallet. now break out the torch!
Thank you - my wallet is flat. I already own this 96 chevy and it has struck a deer it still serves me quite well, but it is kinda ugly.There is no frame damage and she runs down the road good still but I could part with it if I had to. Since I already bought another work truck.But why not just do the whole frame swap? Then I would have new gas tank and buying parts would be as easy as going to parts store and saying need a ------- for a 96 Chevy.
i owned a '60 B100 with rebuilt original drum brakes with the original m/c, and i can tell you they stopped a lot better than...sucking wanker... as you said... they would bring that old truck right down to a stop in no time. you are right that without PS they are tough to steer, and drive like a big ol' truck. but guess what? it IS a big ol' truck. anyway, i had a 266ci V8 with a 3 on the tree, and i loved the thing. tons of torque and plenty of oomph to get out of its own way. i would drop the stock axle and flip the rearend to on top of the springs to drop that sucker down. i wouldn't even think about the frame swap. to me, it sounds like you are getting impatient and trying to find an easy way to a lowered hot rod truck. but i think it would be a mistake. trucks like this need a freshen up, an altitude adjustment, and you've got yourself a truck with attitude. that's what i'd do if i still had mine, anyway.
Not in to much of a hurry or I would have already started cutting .And wouldn't be chatting on the H.A.M.B and trying to weigh my options against other peoples thoughts. But you are correct I have been down the road of modifying cars to what I thought was better at the time and later putting it back to stock. That is also another reason why I would want to do whole frame swap so if later I started kicking myself I would have my old frame still that I could always go back to. Ten years ago I would have picked a way and went all out gettin er done. Now I put a little more thought into my choices.
I was reading the "welder series" vender in the alliance members here the other day. Maybe he has a mustang II setup that would work for your truck. Weld it yourself and save a few bucks.