How-To Restore Vintage Plates

When I first came to the HAMB, one of the first topics I got involved in was restoring California Black Plates. A few people asked me what I charged, I responded with $100 per plate, and I never heard back from them. I would assume they thought the price was too high. And since I was new, they had no idea about the level of quality.

I decided to throw a line in the water and made an offer to LaGrasta to do his plates for free so that I could create this thread, and show some of my work.

As Promised, here's a "how-to" thread on restoring old/vintage plates for those of you who are "do-it-yourselfers". And for those that would like to get it done by me in the future.

Lets get started...

1. Photo #1. Clean the plates.
LaGrastas plates had been painted yellow and then primed black. I don't like to take chances with old paint, especially from a rattle can. So a wire brush and some lacquer thinner got all the old paint off. The other set of plates were actually Ca. "blue" plates, so they got treated to a good blasting in the cabinet.

2. Photo #2. The clean plates after some hammer and dolly work to straighten the dents. They are taped from the backside onto masking paper so they don't fly away due to the high air pressure.

3. Photo #3. I spray the plates with black Evercoat Featherfill high build primer. I then wet sand the plates with 400 grit to smooth out the little ripples and imperfections in the surface. There's a photo of materials used later on.

4. Photo #4. I spray the plates with Valspar Omega 2 single stage black. This is a very shiny paint, and we know that original plates aren't shiny. So we'll dull them down a little later. The reason I use a shiny single stage paint is because I hand letter the numbers and letters and if I use a base black like HOK the urethane lettering enamel will instantly bite into the base color and "re-wet". Meaning the brush has the ability to push around the base. And If I make a mistake with the lettering I can wipe it off. If I use a base black I would need to spray in intercoat clear to protect the base.

5. Photo #5. Now I hand letter the raised number and letters with HOK Chrome Yellow. I use a #2 Gray Squirrel MACK lettering brush. I palette the brush, and thinner on metal panel to get it loaded into the brush.

6. Photo #6. This is a close-up of the brush. Notice the hairs have a square edge, not pointed like a art brush. This brush is available at most sign supply outfits. I get all my stuff from Coast Airbrush in Anaheim Ca.

7. Photo #7. All the numbers are done. I'll do the same thing to the "california"

8. Photo #8. I roll up some tape and apply it to the back of the plates so they don't fly off when I spray them.

9. Photo #9. I spray the plates with Dupont Plas-Stick Flexible Matted Clear. It gives the background and the letters/numbers the same matte sheen and protects the plates from road debris.

10. Photo #10. Here's the items I use. Note! The HOK black basecoat can only be used with my method only as long as you clear it before you start lettering.

There you have it! This can be done on plates from any state if you know the correct colors. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Good Luck!

Patrick

 

I restored my plates last year only because I couldn't find anyone locally to do it finishing the front and back side. Have 6 days working on them from glass beading to final paint. Then a local sign painter painted the numbers. $100/plate is a VERY good price if they are rough and need lots of filling and sanding. Would have paid that without a problem.
Nice Job!!

 

I tried two attempts with rattle cans and was satisfied (my standards) with color, texture and sheen, but I couldn't get the letters correct.
After Stroupe's offer, I quickly dropped them off and awaited the results. They look amazing and really added character to my '63, very period correct.
Thanks Patrick!

Now onto my scallops… this guy does it all.

 

Those look great!

 

Looks good! Thanks for the lesson, I'm doing a set of black CA plates for my wifes car soon and this will help.

 

I wish I had such a steady hand.

 

Why would you paint the "Blue" plates Black/Yellow???

I REALLY hope you or someone else doesn't try to register them....Unless you're the type that wants to "give" the DMV a restored pair of License Plates...

 

I just do what i'm asked.... Leave the details to the customers!

 

Sometimes you gotta "coerce" the Customer into "doing the right thing"...I hope that your name doesn't come up at the DMV....

 

Do you think some handicapped DMV employee is gonna show up at my place and cuff me? Book 'em Dano!

 

You'd be surprised how much the right brush helps!

 

Nice work!

Just to be clear, CA will confiscate any/all old plates if not currently registered to a vehicle? Here in Washington, we are able to register Year of Manufacture (YOM) plates on our classic cars & trucks.

Scott/Gotta56forme

 

These look great... but you already knew that. I've done this to a number of blue and yellow plates and never had any trouble with the law. They're not being ran on anything that would've never had 'em in the first place. As far as getting in trouble... who cares. You'd probably have to surrender the plates and get a new pair.
I do have a question though...
Are the new plates with California screened on them as easy to strip as the older ones... and what would you reccomend I do for the C.A. designation after I'm done with the numbers... freehand it, use a stencil, have it made out of vinyl like a sticker, etc.
Thans for taking the time to create this thread,
Seth

 

In Cali YOM plates are available, yet pricey. The DMV dosn't run around looking for old plates and anything is posible. Its funny that threads involving fenderless vehicles or lack of exhaust doesn't stir up this kind of concern regarding legality.

 

Those look great, I have a pair of '66 Texas plates I was going to try and restore myself, I'd be happy with half the results you have. What is your turnaround on fairly straight plates?

 

Like I said earlier it's not my job to enforce DMV regulations. And, frankly I don't care what people want me to do as long as it isn't morally wrong, or intentionally hurting someone. As far as I know the plates are going on the car when it's at shows... And I appreciate everyones concern, as i will be sure to pass it on to anyone wanting to paint plates the incorrect color.

Now to answer your question. The new plates have a rubber like material that is much harder to remove. It's the same material they use on reflective road signs. Aircraft paint remover will take it off, might take a few attempts.

In regards to the "california" across the top of the plate. I'm assuming you want to make it look like the vintage black and gold plates? If you have computer skills you can make a digital file and have your local Quick Signs cut out vinyl. If you have good hand/eye coordination you can certainly freehand it with One-Shot. But, the letters won't be raised like the old plates. If I were doing it I would hand letter it, and make it look like it's raised by adding a highlight and drop shadow around the gold letters.

 

I can get them back to you in week. As long as they aren't beat up too bad.

 

First class job on the plates, excellent description and photos, thanks for sharing,,

 

No, they won't confiscate them as long they're being registered to a vehicle that is suppose to have that particular type of plate. My neighbor has a 55 caddy, bought some plates at Pomona Swap Meet and no problems getting them registered on his car.

 

Damn, those look nice! First class job. Just one more reason to be jealous of how much better LaGrasta's Falcon looks than mine!

So, Anthony do you have to go to the DMV and switch back to black plates from the 'historic' plates you have now?

 

Nice tutorial and excellent workmanship.........Mike

 

well not claifornia black plate, but Ive done 2 Michigan Black plates (with white letters 1953)
and 2 1928 Michigan green and yellow plates.

I made the 28 plates look a little older than just being redone..im glad that some people like doing this, because im not doing any more

its on my PITA list

 

The blue plates are registered to a 1966 Olds, a year when black and yellow would have been correct. The owner is simply keeping the registered plates on the car, in the appropriate color without anyone being the wiser. Cops don't know if they should be blue or black and from what I'm told don't really even care as long as they have teh current sticker on them.

 

Fantastic work, fantastic tutorial, and Patrick is a fantastic dude. I have been to his shop.
The guy does absolutely first-rate work on everything he does! Extremely talented, without the lame attitude...if you hire him, you will NOT be disappointed with the work, or the experience of dealing with him.

 

I had my 1-1947 plate (the only yr NY had 1 plate) touched up by our local sign guy a fair job considering I bought it 15 yrs ago at a flea market.
We have to send in a copy of the plate to DMV so they can approve it I used a color copy machine.

I had to have the edges trim slightly forgot to tell the metal guy to lengthen the French on the plate recess slightly.

 

That doesn't seem as hard as I was trying to make it. I will have to try mine next.

 

Bringin' them back from the dead!

 

FROM ONE RESTORER TO OTHER THEY LOOK GREAT.
CHECK OUT MY WEB SITE WWW.TAGRESTORER.COM

 

Nice Work! Thanks!

 

old thread, new idea:



what do ya'll think? (for old plates, not new ones.there is no way i can paint the yellow numbers. no way.)