I save stuff like that for speedtalk. Trying to have a meaningful discussion on R/S ratios on most internet forums is like trying to discuss calculus with a duck.
To the thread starter, clockwork 31, I hope by now, you've decided a 327 is a wise move. I had one in a '68 Impala while I was a teenager. Like many teenagers, I ran the crap out of my car. Never any problems with that 327 engine with over 100,000 miles on it. In about 1982, I built another 327 (real close to factory specs) for a car project that got scrapped before the engine ever got put in. My dad got the engine from me and put about 40,000 miles on it in a street driven car. The car was finally trashed and he pulled out the engine. It then got put into a boat that he had for about 8 years and it got used regularly. Before selling the boat, we removed the engine. It sat for a few more years, then got put into a 32 Ford roadster about 10 years ago, where it still rides today. Other than normal maintenance and new paint each time it got transplanted into the next project, the only thing that has been done to it is the 4bbl intake and carb was replaced with an Offy intake with 3 Rochester 2G carbs when it was put into the '32. Still runs flawlessly today. I expect that engine will still be purring when it carry's my boys to car shows long after I've been put in the ground.
I am probably gonna wish I'd just kept my mouth shut as usual. I just noticed this comment in a post on R/S ratios in regards to 327's and thought it was ironic. I think the important thing to grasp about R/S ratio is how high or low ratios affect the rate of piston acceleration at different points in the stroke, and how that affects other choices you make in terms of port volumes, cam timing, and combustion chamber shape @ tdc. I would consider the fact that the R/S ratio in the 327 means that, assuming the same rod length, the piston moves away from tdc more slowly that it does in a longer stroke, engine like a 350 or 383, and how that would affect flame travel.
Actually, this is a mis-quote. Smoke was a supporter of running the longest rod possible. But we are wandering WAY off the topic of this thread, which is why I didnt get into the whole R/S thing in the first place. Guess I should mention here, I do a lot of that "straight line shit". Those fiberglass engines are kind of cool. You could make a hell of a coffee table from one.
Talk of piston speed, ord ratio...etc..etc.... is of little use other than showing off yer knowledge when it comes to a basic street engine....
I stuck a '66 300hp 327 in my '62 Stude a few years ago and after driving it for a while, swore I would never let it go! Now the Stude is gone and the 327 is waiting to go into my '29!
Not sure I agree with that completely, But I do within the context of this thread. I had no intention of going there till someone else did. When you start to REALLY delve into building street engines, and look at it in terms of pushing the limits on dynamic compression/octane, it becomes critical, Think about the pistons motion on the bottom of the compression stroke, how it is affected by variations in R/S ratio, and how that affects the intake closing point you select, and how you arrive at that choice in terms if balancing ICL and LDA. You also have to keep in mind the effect the pistons motion has on reversion at the end of the exhaust cycle/beginning of the intake cycle, and again, how the LDA you select affects that. Short rod combos are much more sensitive, as the piston acceleration away from tdc at the beginning of the intake stroke is much more aggressive, and more likely to draw exhaust gas gack into the chamber. Thats the problem, once you open the R/S pandoras box, its damn hard to get the lid back on. lets just drop the R/S ratio thing and move on. I really dont like discussing this stuff here, but once I start down this road, I have a hell of a time just shutting up. Every time someone says something, it sets me off on another train of thought.
Any thoughts on what carb I should use? There is a big swap meet in about a month. I am gonna hit this one and it is my first swap meet. I'm hunting down a few parts at this one. BlocK Hugger Headers, a distributor, carb, pulley/bracket setup, harmonic balancer... whatever else I might come up on. if you can suggest part #s on the carb and distributor that would be right for my motor it would sure help. The calculators I tried online show a 600cfm carb for my motor. I assume an auto choke is the way to go rather than a manual. Not sure if the trans matters but I have a 700R4.
Don't run no stinking carb......be real cool and run a HILBORN INJECTION unit on that small block Chevy. I'll wrap it up in Christmas paper for ya.
hO HO hO ...........THROW SOME GREEN BACKS IN WITH THAT ADDRESS AND OLE SAINT NICK WILL MAKE SURE IT GETS DELIVERED TO SACRAMENTO
Sweet. Those were the ones I was looking at. They are the ones that clear angle plugs. I called them up and they told me these though.... http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-CC2-Small-Block-Chevy-Header-Set.html Just not sure. Not sure these woulod be any better than Ram Horns. Especially for the money.
soooo long story short i had to use my 350 from my model a project in my 68 chevelle using a good portion of my model a budget on my chevelle(sigh...) now i am looking for a 327 for the model a, i have found one on craigslist for a good price. my question is other than the coding on the front pad what ways are there to id a 327??? and should i look for a std bore or .30 is fine. the owner thinks its a 68 z28 engine, but was told that by some one else, and is not 100%. hopefully they didnt wipe the numbers clean if they decked the engine. thanks tom
I have a couple 327's too. Hard to pick the tougher between a 283 and a 327. the one problem I had with a couple 327's (back before sonic testing) was the majority of 327's didn't seem to handle anything over a .040 overbore. 12.5 to 1 and .010 off the heads plus a .060 overbore would usually result in high engine temps. Even with AV gas back then. Run? Yes they would shit and git. But usually .060 would result in pin holes in the cyl walls after time. But they are among the best engines ever produced . JMO. Lippy
just got off the phone with doug anderson at automotive machine service and the 327 i scored off of craigslist is a early 68 327 with a large journal FORGED crank, and 2.02 camel back heads and .030 pistions!!! not bad with all the machine work done and only 300.00
265, 283, 327, 350, 400, 262, 307, 305, 302 All variations of the same engine, all the same size in outer dimensions, variances in bore and stroke.
I had a 72 firebird with a 327 out of a 68 vette. Fully forged bottom end with 13.5:1 pop up wiseco pistons. Trickflow aluminum heads 2.06/1.65 valves, roller lifters, aluminum 1.6 rockers, gear drive, tunnel ram, and a race demon 750 cfm carb. Spun it up to 8000 rpm and made 540whp. Absolute beast of a motor. Can you tell I miss it? Haha! I'm looking for another 327 to put in my 46 fleetline. Something about a high revving small block that is lots of fun. Especially behind a four speed.
I have me one of those as well. Mine is stamped BLISS though so i thought it was aftermarked. In a 350 4 bolt block with flat tops and worked over 416 heads it ran like a son of a bitch. That is until it started smoking and i found i broke a couple pistons.
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