Projects *Washed*Barn Find Hemi 1954 New Yorker Deluxe

Hey, I need your address to come up there. BTW: Did that thing have A/C at one time? I looked at the right front inside fender and there seems to be some weird valve in the pictures.

I'll PM you me email address.

 

Please don't run the 10w/30 oil you talked about
these engines were designed to run on a 30 weight oil and something like a 30/40 or a 20w/40 will do a fine job. 10w oil is designed to flow in tight clearance rice burners or any late model car - tolerances/clearances in these engines is looser in comparison and you need to keep the viscosity up - not down. I agree with using the diesel oil to start with and change it out as it "clouds' . Keep an eye on the subsequent oil change too as sometimes the engine can loosen a deposit as it is being used and goes through its heat cycles. Enjoy it - they are getting fewer and harder to find

 

You mean you got it to fix up and sell? WTF!

 

Got to keep my options open. There is another project I just aquired a nice piece for. And a 2 door Poncho on deck.

 

Nice find!! When do you hope to have her back on the road?

 

Hopefully May 26th.
I know im pushing but if all falls into place. I can make it work.

 

How does a guy adjust the brakes properly with the Mopar tool. How do you adjust the cams right. And the shoe "guides" on each side?

 

'54 shop manual
Minor adjustment
removal of wheel & hub not nessesary
turn one cam untill lining prevents wheel from turning. slowly loosen cam untill wheel can turn. repeat on other cam.

major adjustment

both heel & toe
after replacing or removing shoes, turning drum, ect
remove wheel & hub
make sure shoe isn't warped
Remove brake shoes & check height of cam pin with guage tool MT-19-L. adjust guage to the wheel cylender mount lug @ anchor bolt. rotate guage to check height using this measure.
If cam pin is higher than face of wheel cyl mounting lug, the brake shoe guide spring should be raised & cam pin filed down to same height, if pin is low you're OK.
reinstall shoes & springsarrows on anchor bolts should point away from heel of shoe, if pointing twords heel they could loosen & lock the shoe to the drum.
check inside diameter of drum with guage tool MT-19H, set guage pin to match.
Transfer from drum guage to shoe guage by setting the brake shoe arbor, so that the finger marked "DRUM" just contacts the point of the brake drum guage pin
install adaptor bushing on steering knuckle or rear axle shaft. turn guage arbor from "DRUM" to point marked "HEEL" & slide shoe guage over the adaptor bushing. this guage setting allows correct .006 clearance between lining & drum.
finger of shoe arbor should remain @ the point marked HEEL when adjusting toe or heel. do not turn finger of brake shoe arbor to point marked TOE.
Swing brake guage around untill finger is over "toe' of brake shoe turn adjusting cam untill lining @ toe of shoejust contacts guage finger.
Swing finger of brake guage over "heel' of brake shoe & turn anchor bolts until lining up @ that point that just contacts guage finger.
As anchor bolt are being adjusted toe clearance may change, adjust slowly & keep toe in proper clearance.
Cam adjusting. down deacreses clearance & up increases clearance.
to increase heel clearance, turn anchor bolt so arrow moves away from the drum. moving arrow twords drum decreases clearance
This is hard to chew on even with the photos in the shop manual

 

Even harder to chew on without the tool for lining measurements and trueness with guides...School of hard knocks

 

...there is a reason why olddaddy makes a disc brake kit for these cars... and a big reason why changing the rear axle make sense.

.

 

As the Tex Smith Mopar Hot Rod book says...Many Mopars had criminaly deficient brakes(more or less).

 

Drums turned, wheel cylinders ready to get bolted on, new hoses all around, water pump will be here tomorrow. Got the afternoon off work. Running by saturday noon?

 

whats the lens look like.

 

But will it be stoppin?

 

Contact "Hot Heads" They will have everything you need for this hemi. Nice car. Don

 

Lens?

Running...YES
1/2 Stopping like it did stock!

 

That "weird valve" looks like the manifold that bolts to the A/C compressor, and the motor also has the pulley idler bracket on the right side of the water pump. Probably a pretty rare factory option, unless it was an add-on under dash A/C system. That mud dauber nest on the side of the radiator wasn't a factory option either.

 

When you start digging into the engine, take a look at the Hemi Tech threads that we've put together. Almost everything you would want to know is in there. And if you don't find the answer, ask. Then it can be added. The link to the tech threads is in my signature line. Just click on the "Hemi Tech" picture.

GREAT find!! Glad to see it's being left all together! Pretty rare these days!

Good luck with the build!

 

Great find.
Good for you..
And also glad you are going to drive it...
Those big old boats were quite something in their day...and deserve a new day too !!
Cheers,

 

Any Ideas On the A/c Unit....It is not aftermarket. Any MOPAR guys have a way of telling if it is a true A/C car?
It has all the lines and the A/c in rear but some areas look a little shady...

 

Yes, mud dauber nest was only standard on Hudson "Hornets, Wasps, and Super wasps"!!!

 

Champion N14Y, A guy on ebay has them now. Asks 8.00 a set, takes 5.00. His name is redhhr. Bought some for myself a couple weeks ago. Also Autolite #66. The Champions are the old non resistor type. Good luck.

 

It had to be a MOPAR option too.... I dug about 10 pounds of those nasty bastards out of my 50 Dodge!!!

 

Motor runs no water leaks now. Brakes are assembled need to adjust them and pack bearings. Then put gas tank back in. Ill it will be on the road after 20+ years of sitting.

 

A quart of rislone mixed in with your oil might help clean your oil passages up and some of the gunk in those heads. Hemis do not get much oil as is to the heads so clean oil passages are a must. Great find, hope all turns out right.

 

Gas tank in, brake lines on, brakes adjusted, final check and change oil in A.M I will be ready to cruise.

 

33 Trouble free miles today! Power steering works great. Brakes good may need bled again. Ran 190' all day long Idle or highway.

 

Anyone have a good idea for wheel treatment?

What is a car like this worth? Any ideas on a asking price? I know what I got into it and I am thinking around $4500.

 

Did a fellow Hamber PM you about the spark plug wire covers? I gave him your username a few weeks ago. Looks good, noticed no heater hoses, did you plug up the inlet/outlets? How does the Powerflite shift?

 

It shifts okay could work more smoothly...But it gets better every stop and go. Anyone got a honest market value on this car?