I've been running y-blocks since 1971. They're great when built right. Overhead oiling is not a problem with the new oils and with propper cam bearing installation. Have a brand new 80 over 312 that was together for less than 50 miles because the cam bearings were not installed correctly. In the 5 I have built over the years have never had this happen before. It sucks to go through installation in my '57 bird only to have to pull it out and all apart. There is a new rear seal now available that doesn't leak. I put it together this time with lots of sealer and it was dry. As I was double sealing every thing I kept saying "pity the poor guy that has to try and get this apart next" and it turned out to be me, but it didn't leak. Probably double seal it again when it comes back from new cam bearings. MIKE
Good engine, but they are large and heavy for their displacement. Large is not a problem if they are in the original engine compartment but be careful when trying to put them into something else. What are you putting it into? Charlie Stephens
y blocks are great mills. you can buy lots of speed parts today not cheap. y block magszine is a great mag and the y block nationals is a great show to go to. ive been in to y blocks whole life billy the kidd bender not much of a kidd anymore at 58.
Have my latest 312 broken in now. It has the best sound of any old V8 out there. Those that complain about it's gas mileage must not know what they are talking about my last 292 (.30) over got 19 mpg im my t'bird. The current new one is an .80 over 312 is getting 17-18 with a nice cam and it's low end torque it will tolerate a lot of gear in the rear. Currently running 2.73's and no launch problems. Would really consider a 5 speed next time and there is a kit for the AOD. Over head oiling is a myth now since our oils are way better and don't sludge up like the ancient oils. When I took apart one of my spare it had a 1/2 layer of tar in it. MIKE
They are a very tough engine- the demo-derby guys around here used to sniff them out and put them in everything, they were said to be the engine that would run the longest with no water after the radiator got punched. And eet aiyn't noo steenking Chebbie
Excellent motor, the y block was Fords workhorse They went into many different platforms from dump trucks to Crown Vicks and T-Birds. I have had a couple and got reliable service from them. I have an old truck book that shows Ford running one at full throttle on a dyno for 115 hours straight! The exhaust manifolds were glowing red.
The big heavy duty three speed has the shift forks on the top cover. it dont have a side cover like the little three speed. The HD three speed and granny four speed use the same bell its different than the small 3 speed. OldWolf
Hi to all the 292 fans. I have had several 57 Fords with 292 Engines over the years and just bought a 57 Ranchero in the fall of 2013. When I test drove it had a standard tranny with overdrive. I noticed a vibration in the drive train and when I pushed off the OD the vibration lessoned so I figure something is wrong with the tranny? I have dealt with this fellow for years and asked him to bolt on a 700 R and I would make the deal. 700 R works well and it moved the vibration to a different RPM so it is the motor and not the tranny. I flushed the engine, dumped the oil and replaced with Amsoil Zrod which made a big difference and made it smoother but still have the vibration at around 60-70 MPH. Anybody have any experience with vibrations in 292 engines?
Bringing up a post from the dead. I'm in a serious debate phase about putting a 292 in a 59 f100 to be a motorcycle hauler. I know there are some tricks to make the 292 more street friendly, 4 speed and 9" rear end, and some engine mods for better oiling and such. I just want to know it would be a good choice to be able to drive freeway speeds hauling 2 motorcycles. I like the originality of the motor, the sound, but I need to know it will serve me well.
Hell yes. It's all about the gearing. Dual exhaust w/ smithy or porter steel pacs. The freeway speeds are no problem, it's the braking you'll need to address out there in Cullyfornya.
I bought my 57 with a "Y" of unknown displacement (272,292,312?). Old, leaky tired engine is what I figured. So I had McTim64 build me a beautiful new 292 to replace it. Well, that old engine has been so reliable that after 2 years, Tims engine sits on a stand and the old mill just keeps on going. 94 Holley, keep the oil clean and add a bit of Marvel, pertronix, and she runs fine with her 3:10 rear end from a mid fifties bird. Cruises 70mph at 2600 getting stupid good mileage. Hate to screw up a good thing!
They look cool, sound amazing, and make decent power. Is it hemi power? No, but its still enought to move on down the road quick. Ive gotta 292 .60 over, milled/ported/bigger valve COAE heads, B manifold with 600cfm carb, 57 tbird manifolds and an isky e2 cam. Didnt make the power of my 350 sbc, but I would trade a dozen chebbies for this thing any day of the week.
the big truck 4 speeds will bolt up to that heavy duty 3 speed bellhousing. Ive got a 53 with that big 3 speed. It has the shift levers on the top cover. That oil might look clean but what happens is all the dirt settles into the bottom and the thin clear oil floats to the top. I would pull off the oil pan and clean it and the oil pump screen. pull the valve covers and intake and valley cover. Remove and clean the rocker arms ect. Clean all the sludge from the innards. soak the cyls in a mixture of auto trans fluid and diesel. And after starting and running a short time change the oil and filter. You might knock out the freeze plugs and flush out the Block and radiator. While you are at it check the condition of the umbrella valve seals. If they are hard and crusty you can change them without pulling the heads. Personally I never liked the Y blocks. I consider them to be Boat Anchor's. Back in the day I always swapped in a FE. The crossover exhaust on the truck engines are very restrictive and adds heat to the engine compartment. Center dump manifolds from big trucks can be used to install dual exhaust. Or find car exhaust manifolds and swap them side to side and run pipes from the front of the engine. I posted some pictures of the kind of gunk you likely have in the oil pan of your engine.
Yes ive heard all the stories about Y blocks beating 406 fords ,GTO,s and Camaros. But I wasn't the one driving the muscle car. I never seen a really fast stock Y block. Ive got a old stock 72 ford truck. 360 automatic 3/4 ton and a $1000.00 cash that says it will beat any stock production Y block in the 1/4 mile. Now In not talking about beating a supercharged 312 or a factory 2 four version od a mummert reengineered high dollar mill.
Luckily I'm not trying to build a drag car, I just want a solid cool old motor that will be able to drive 8 hours and handle the Tejon pass to LA. But it's good to hear they can perform.
I just now realize that this was a old thread. Your 59 will already have a 9 inch rear end. The later top loader full syncro three speeds are pretty good transmissions. If you don't already have the Y block. You should really consider a FE or 351 engine. They perform great in stock form. you can find them that already have electronic ignition dist in the front of the engine and the valves to handle unleaded gas. The cost to have a set of Y heads reworked to hard valves ect. Is more than a used newer mill would cost. And its doubtful that you can build a Y block that will shut your buddy up.
The y block was a boat anchor when new, a boat anchor in 08, and a boat anchor now. That has been my experience. I have met many nice tow truck drivers though. Seriously, I would not drive one in a low geared truck from Oakland to LA, and expect it to make the trip without issue
Hmmmm... Mom bought a '56 Ford convert in '58. She got sick, (cancer of the bone) so I took over the car. 292, T86 top loader 3 spd., 3.78 gear. I thought it could use some 'freshening up', so tore it down at 30K miles. New factory cam, (312) Grant rings, Clevite 77 brgs, rods & mains. Turned pistons around, (front to rear) for better advantage of offset pins (factory 'trick' for silent running when cold) Old hot rod trick for better 'leverage' on power stroke; akin to 'longer rods advantage'... I then changed valve lash to .016" hot, from recommended .021". Notable difference. Matched ports, and 'cleaned up' passages in the 'Teapot' 4 bbl. 312 type exhaust manifolds, 2" headpipes, 26" glass packs. Rear tires 8.20 X 15, 6" wide wheels. (steel) Took it to Fremont strip, turned 92 in the quarter at 14.2. Not bad, from the first time (before the alterations) Original time was 88 MPH, 16+ secs. (shame) That was probably why the Chevys ate the Fords. None of 'em 'ate' mine... a couple got close enough for a 'bite', though... NOTE: This was in 1959. Loved that car...65 in low gear, 90 in second. (if 'topped out') Usually shifted at 55, then 80. No tach! LOL
Supposedly the firing order, same as the Flathead. 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2, as God intended. Or maybe the exhaust ports? I dunno. Drove my beast a bunch of times all the way out west thousands of miles thru mountains and desert. They aren't any different than any other vintage motor - if they are setup right they will do fine. If not, not.
Bunch of guys in my club have em and swear by em. I wasn't sold. I picked up my 58 f100 with a 292 and I may be a convert. That engine is tough. The downfall is my granny 4spd and rear ratio, but it's a screamer. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've seen Y-blocks absorb more abuse than any Chevy could stand more than once, then again I've had two that broke the cast crank into multiple pieces and trashed the block. But by and large, they are very tough motors. I had a buddy that had a totally worn-out '57 312 in a '60 Starliner, he ran it with under 5 lbs of oil pressure for over 6 months (and that was after he 'upgraded' to 90 wt to get any oil pressure; sounded like a garbage can full of marbles going down the road) before it finally seized. We were able to rebuild it too.... although we had to use a sledgehammer to get the pistons out. Another guy I knew had a built Y-block in a '56 Ford 2-dr post car; with 4.11 gears and a T10 four speed, he was a scourge on the local SBC crowd stoplight-to-stoplight. He embarrassed more than a few SS350 Camaro owners; even after he beat them, they still couldn't believe they were beat by a Y-block. Updated with a good T5, that would be a great cruiser today. It wasn't a high-dollar build either, just very good attention paid to details
I had a 352 and 390 in both of my 63 Galaxies, and I really loved that 352. I don't want to side track this thread too much, I'm trying to decide what to do for a probable frame up build. I can do anything at this point since the one Im looking at doesnt have the motor, but does have the 3 on tree transmission and rear end. Maybe I should start a new thread. I just want a game plan before I go in too deep.
Why mess with a 292 when a 312 will do better? A friend had a ratty 55 Ford Fairlane four door with a 312, Wolverine cam and a 57 Ford dual quad Nascar set up and a three speed out of a Ford P/U, blackwall tires and small hub caps.. It was a Sleeper that ran pretty well.
Make sure whoever installs your cam bearings know what they are doing. This was the main cause of bad oiling up top when the cam bearings would spin in the journal. Oils are a lot better now, and as these other guys have said keep it changed. I know several guys with y blocks that have a lot of miles and very dependable.
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