This is the airbox from the '58 that was fabbed in '66. It uses a Fomoco Tri-Power top and bottom with sheet aluminum sides. It's got the usual corrosion from the years. I would like to get it back to an as-cast finish like when the donor top & bottom was new. Of course the sides were not cast but whatever happens to the top & bottom will happen to the sides, too. I have had aluminum intakes and valve covers bead blasted and they turn out well but I am worried about this because of the sides and how they might look as compared to the top & bottom. Basically, with my limited knowledge I can't predict how this will turn out if I take it to be bead blasted and I am askeered that I will mess it up and have to pay a second time to try to fix it. It's a custom part, fabbed up on a budget for racing and it's cool as hell. I want it to look better but I don't want it to look like I tried to make it something it's not, like it's a factory part from a Boss on a concours resto, know what I mean? Polishing is out. Black wrinkle paint (or any other paint) is out. Grinding the welds down is out. Here is the dingus:
If you bead blast it, it'll look like it was bead blasted. Finish will be too coarse on the sides, and too fine on the top. I don't know how to get the look you're after, aside from making a new one. Probably best to just leave it alone for now.
Water blasting will bring that back to look brand new. Maybe called Hydro-blasting on your side of the pond.
Everybody has their own take on making aluminum look like new but I was relly impressed by the results from steel shot blasting. I REALLY looked like new cast aluminum-not that white satiny look that bead blasting gives you. You might give serious consideration to masking and using different media aon the cast vs the sheet aluminum portions.
I'm not sure that the soda will remove the rust. It is light rust but most of the things I've had soda blasted it wont remove rust totally.It was mainly designed to remove paint.It would be worth a shot though.
I would use Eagle Mag wheel cleaner for non coated wheels. it will just clean it without changing the texture. Clean is what you are after.
I'd bead blast it...from a distance and use some old media. (I keep the worn out stuff around just for this purpose) A good operator can control some of this. Since you are not trying to remove paint or rust there is no reason to get up so close on it. Sorta like dusting a paint job. done from a distance, it won't affect the surface. Yeah it will take a little longer but it will be worth it. Take your time don't rush it. Personally I would not want to make it look like it was a one piece factory casting. IMHO it's personality comes from it's being an old hotrodder's custom assembled piece. That thing is as cool as hell!! I'm jealous.
Bead blast it or use the etching mag wheel cleaner, Then use the paint they sell for alternators and starters in the small overhaul Mkt. It is a cast appearance paint and looks pretty good.
Exactly where I'm coming from. I need to find a good blaster in the San Fernando Valley or Santa Clarita Valley with some hot rod soul. I have used Hambros many times but this part is very important to me. So much of the cars "personality" is tied up in this part and the fenderwell headers that they need to look good.
Thanks for all of the input! I will take notes and start checking around for local blasters to find someone who is sensitive to the restoration of old parts like this. Suggestions appreciated. San Fernando or Santa Clarita valleys. I don't need it to look new, just fresh. I'll be putting the old chrome valve covers back on and they are not real pretty because of the rust. I mean, the rust is off but the scars of rust remain. But they were the original valve covers from '66 and they have the stickers from the engine builder. So the air box need not be perfect, just clean. I'm obsessing a bit but hey, I care.