exhaust pipe on back of engine??

Does it have a fuel filter on it? Have you changed it.

 

stop spending money until you do a compression test, check the vacuum, timing, and dwell. that motor sounds like it needs work!

 

The oil smells like fuel??? You may want to check to see if the carb's leaking through (needle valve leaking due to varnish, debris, or whatever or the float set too high). If raw gas is getting into the oil, it's first going through the carburetor,intake, into the cylinders and washing past the rings to get to the pan... Might be worth a check...

 

If it's leaking fuel into the oil and diluting it, you should quit driving it until you get the pump changed out and check out the carb- as you've seen the diluted oil drops your oil pressure, and in extreme cases, folks have had their oil pans and valve covers "suddenly removed" by gas in the pan, accompanied by a loud noise. The longer you run a leaker, the faster it will leak, and the more the oil is diluted- not good. If it's leaking down thru the carb, you should be getting black plugs and if it's bad enough, black smoke
Keep changing the oil as soon as it shows color, before it goes completely black & opaque. Your filter can only hold so much crud, and when it gets full, its bypass opens, and the oil goes thru the engine without being filtered- that's why you change it before it gets too dirty- after a couple changes it shouldn't get black as quickly

 

I hope it cures your problem. A large amount of gasoline in the oil on a mechanical fuel pump vehicle is usually a leaking fuel pump.If you haven't changed a small block Chevy fuel pump, there is a rod that rides on the cam and pushes the pump. The rod will fall down when you remove the pump. You'll be able to feel the rod with your finger. If you don't get it up in position, you can break the pump when you tighten the bolts. You can remove a bolt on the front of the block and install a longer one that will hold the rod in place while you remove the pump.

 

Ok so I replaced everything and I think the timing is "close", only getting a small amount of backfire on occasion from the tailpipe during acceleration, otherwise running way better. The new oil change didn't smell like fuel, so that's a GOOD thing! Thanks for all the advice! Off to torquefest in the morning... (fingers crossed)

 

good luck!... do you have AAA?

 

Fire you "not a" mechanic.

Keep the 283 and rebuild it, swap the powerglide for a 200r4.

Valvoline VR-1 instead of the full synthetic

explain this please.... inquiring minds want to know...


Now you have an Edelbrock carb. Do you have a fuel pressure regulator keeping the pressure below 6lbs? If not, there might be the cause of the rich running and gas in the oil. Do a search on here and you'll see there are a bunch of threads on that problem. And I'd worry about that before I messed with the fuel pump.

 

You're right on the info, but off on your dates, although not required by law yet, in 1961 the American Automobile Association Members (Ford, Chevy etc.) agreed that they would install PCV valves on all cars in California, with full National Application one year later - 1962
I think they became federal law in either 63 or 64, could be as late as 65

 

Will somebody please stop these guys! If I see PVC instead of PCV again I'm gonna explode! It's not Poly Vinyl Chloride, it's Positive Crankcase Ventilation!

 

I read the whole thread and was wondering two things, One is could it be that its getting way too much gas and needs a fuel pressure regulator? I've had the same issue on a jeep i had once and that was the problem too much fuel pressure. and Two, why is everyone giving this young guy hell? He is trying his best and is looking to you older guys to help him not to make wise cracks....A few at first were funny but damn.. let it go and help or make another thread of wise ass remarks or something.

 

then you missed in #98 when I mentioned just that...

 

musicknerd, Good luck on your road trip. Don't let the ball busters get to ya. They forget there was a time when they didn't "know it all". I think its great to see a newb gettin his hands dirty. Thats how ya learn. I've been in the hobby over 30 years and I'm still learnin. Good lookin ride by the way. Be warned tho old cars can be very addictive.

 

Nice wagon. Sounds like you just need a tune up. Let it smoke till you can rebuild it. Smokin' builds character! Unless you are getting a smokescreen, then it just builds up the local po-lice coffers.....

Quite a few of you guys seem to be down on synthetics, and I am not sure why, other than being stubborn. Synthetic oils are available in most of the common weights, and their superior lubrication abilities make them even better suited for older engines. And where did the "pre-90s" thing come from? Sounds like that one was pulled out of thin air.

Before you go and flame me about tolerances and worn out parts- that is all the more reason to run a synthetic oil. Synthetics coat the parts better than conventional oil and they don't break down like them either, meaning the oil stays usuable longer in more harsh conditions. I use Royal Purple in all my engines, old and new.

If you have a legitimate arguement for not running synthetic, lets hear it. I started a new thread so we can discuss this there and not hijack this guy's thread.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6500182#post6500182

 

dont listen to these guys, dont look for advice, just teach yourself to do everything like i did so you can waste 1000's of dollars on parts that dont need replaced. if the HAMB was around and i was smart enough to ask questions like musicknerd when i started out i'd be a damn millionaire by now.

btw that wagon is a damn fine learner project

 

If your mechanic didn't know what a down draft tube was , then I would find another mechanic !
An engine has to be able to breath or it will find it's own place & way to breath !

Retro Jim

 

Just got back from torquefest, it was awesome! The wagon ran great too, only two minor issues: burned through one of the plug wires, replaced it before I started having problems, and I bottomed out coming out of grocery store and broke a c-clamp on the exhaust - that made for a noise ride home lol! I couldn't be happier with how well the engine held up, looking forward seeing all my friends as rust revival!!

Also, fell in love with a 54' Chevy last night, I have a demon on my shoulder telling me to find someone to trade up with.. Just out of curiosity, I'm gonna see if I can figure out how much the 62' is worth..

 

At least he didn't ask whats a henway [usually about 2-5 lbs]

 

Nope, I think he'd already been bit by that one
Hey nerd, what does the oil look like now? I'd bet it's already getting black again, and you'll know what to do- pretty soon it'll stay clean longer. I'd bet there's a lot of life left in that engine. One more thing to check on your oldie, is the timing chain- a loose one that jumps a tooth will ruin your day, and a fresh one that gets the cam back in time will make it run even better

 

Oil is looking pretty good, not black yet, and when I changed it on Thursday, no fuel smell.

 

Thats what generates the 1.21 gigawatts of power required for time travel, but you really need a stainless steel body, this improves the flux dispersal generated by the flux capacitor, and this in turn allows the vehicle smooth passage through the space-time continuum.

 

LOL my dad actually had a DeLorean for a couple years in the '80's, he offered to sell it to me when he got bored with it- I respectfully declined
I do, however, still have the '69 Mach1 I bought from him, my first car- it ain't as pretty as it was then, but it's time is coming

 

That's sort of what I was wondering. Is the blow by out the breather seeming to get better? I was hoping that after you ran it for a while, and maybe put some "Restore" or some such in it, the rings would free up and reseat.

 

I have a 54 210 TWO DOor. Wife likes wagons. You better send me some pictures

 

damn glad i didnt see this thread before i traded my apache for the wagon !!!

 

+1 ...

 

power valve go poopen