Yes. Single intake port on other side. Crosses to a chamber cast into the block just below the exhaust manifold. I would think you could tap into the chamber to make a better intake. No water there. It is also the best block to use with the Morton & Brett or Roof OHV conversion heads. If you can find one. Here are some pictures of the M&B head with the standard over the counter FI set up. and a picture of the crank/bottom end. 5 mains is the good news. 217 inches is OK to. Stock intake port next to much brazzing due to freeze crack. And stock bottom end below better after market crank.
Bill, think that's an early '27 pre Fast Four as Rich said. Distributor comes through the head on a FF. Rich, the VW distributor with a gear would have to be from a Rabbit, right?
well i got it unstuck ....couple days soak in sea foam....marvel seems to be a mystery in canada. looks like i need a rocker and a short headbolt. the very first rocker is brazed together and a middle short head bolt is broken near flush.anyone got spares? the carb is a tillotson... is that stock? pics tomorrow...thanks 6v positve ground right? i'm going to start it soon.
bct, Great to hear that the engine is unstuck! The tilliotson is an aftermarket carb, but should do for the time being. 1928 Chevrolet carbs are hard to find, expensive, and not worth running unless you are going for an absolutely correct stock engine. There are lots ofdifferent opinions on which carb to use, but Model A carbs seem to work well and SU carbs are also a good choice.
The guy I bought my '28 Chevy engine from had purchased the engine entirely for the early (or was it late? anyway, desireable) Model A carburetor it had on it. Sadly, he'd broken the carb removing it. If you want to stay updraft, but don't want to pay restorer money for a carburetor, you might want to consider an updraft off a late-1940s Chevrolet COE. I've heard speedster guys say good things about those. -Dave
hey brian, yep spring sprung.pm on its way thanks for the info....i'll be happy to have it work , any tips on priming them for the restart. thanks but stock for now, having a little buyers remorse.....lol....besides its my first banger....good news is it will bolt into my 30s chev frame
Speaking of 1928 downdraft carb stuff, I picked up this fish carb on a 28 chev intake, I won't be using the intake
Yep- filter lines. The '28's (first year, and eons before that other popular make) had an elongated oil filter, and when it needed replacing the tube connections were undone, and the whole can thrown away. People interested in originality try to find an old one (hard to find) and gut it. Herb
thanks ebtm3.....the water pump was very stiff so i removed and cleaned it up, i pulled the fan flange and was going to remove the pulley next but it was very tight and i didn't want to break it with the puller.....i must have moved it because there is lots of play now. pump blades/shaft move about 1/4" in and out. does anyone have proper specs on the end play for the pump.? also whats the best way to refill the grease cups i have the engine turning over with the starter now and all rockers are moving ....yay.... i want to put some fresh oil in her and hook up the coil......what is the best way to see if i have oil pressure? loosen the blocked filter line? diesel oil good enough? thanks for the help.
While at the Portland swap meet I spotted this generator. I'd only seen a picture of one that Jimmy B had posted, so I wasn't sure until I got home. I'm not sure what I can do about the distributor. One thing I found is that the Pitch?? of the gear is greater than the gears from the later motors I have. Does anyone know what the year break is? Mac, do you still need a front plate? While I was taking these pictures I found a second one. Norm
Yes sir, I certainly does!!! Great find, Norm- the generator looks pretty good and early distributors have been popping up on espay as of late.
Wow just spent about 3 hours reading all the new posts. The financial gain dept dictates projects so mine is still a dream, did run the engine for the kids last year so at least I got to hear one of these little baby's again. The car was supposed to be a speedster but years ago my son set the Ford body on there. I think it would be the easer to finish the speedster than dropping that Ford body down so it would look good. I have a 40 Ford hood to make the tail section out of, and my idea was to use seat skins and a simple cowl to make it look early. I still wonder what those pistons came out of, someone did a lot of work to make them fit the Chevy. If I use the Ford rods it will put them too close to the top. I retire next year maybe then, have fun.
Norm- That plate and generator is from a '25 or earlier may have been even an early '26. The pot metal distributors have all decayed from inter-granular corrosion but some one is/was making aluminum repops. Chevy couldn't make up their mind about timing gears, kept changing them. Dumbest setup was in '27 where the put a metal gear on the cam, and a fiber on the crank--they all got converted to the '28 (fiber cam, cast iron crank) over the years, but I wonder how long it took for the original setup to fail. Herb
I've this '27, it runs although there is a crack in the head, leaks a little coolant. I also have another complete '28 motor and another complete '28 head ( I think) and the rest of the motor from the spare head is in a barn not far away. I don't think I'm going to use any of the 4 pin stuff if someone is in need... Cheers!
If that '27 engine has a steel camshaft gear, I'd be interested- or if you're doing a resto and need a '27 head, I have a spare.
Herb - I finally got out and bought a bar of 7075 and getting ready to take a start at making rocker arms. I've tried studying the ones you did in the pics on post 701 at the top of page 36 in this thread. Several questions - 1. are all the rockers the same, i mean, are any rockers left specific and right specific? 2. When you made the rocker shaft stands, did you make the rocker shaft the same size as original, or did you go larger? 3. What or where did you get the rocker tips? 4. It looks like you used the original push rod adjusters, did you just cut the threads in the rocker arms or did you use a heli-coil? 5. What material did you use for the rocker stands? 6. You said you used a bushing in the rocker arms, what material was that? I've got an old 3-port Olds head stored away. But it has a small problem-one of the ears on the exhaust mounting bolt holes was broken off and i don't have the broken off part. I'm going to try and find a good welder to build up some material so i can bore out a new hole and thread it.
Michael, All the rockers are the same left to right, but there is a step you might want to take. Olds 3 port heads use 1:1 rockers, where the '28 Chevrolet head uses 1.5:1- Herb milled the rocker shaft bases down and made new ones out of steel to move the shaft placement. If you look at his pics, you'll see what I'm talking about. One thing I've been thinking about is trying to find either replacement parts for roller rockers or a good set of used ones (lots of race shops down here in GA) to scavenge the parts. If you or anyone else has some ideas about this, please share and I come up wth something, I'll do the same!
Thanks for the info on the rocker arms Mac. That inspired one more question, could roller tips be installed in the rockers arms that Herb made? Is there enough material and space out there on the end? I for one am interested in some form of roller type of rocker arm. And a question for you Mac, what year of Saturn did you come up with that had the roller lifters that were close to what could be used in these vintage engines? Now back to the garage, I'm working on getting a 53 Pontiac flathead straight 8 ready to sell. Thanks, Mike
Michael E, if you can't find someone to weld your head you could machine the area and bolt on a small block. Then redrill your exhaust mounting hole where it needs to be. I've repair two OT VW blocks that way that had motor mount holes broken off.
Michael- Answers- 1- already answered by Mac-they are all the same 2- larger- I used a piece of 4130 steel tube 3/4" OD, 1/8" wall 3- I made the rocker tips from Allen head cap screws-rollers wouldn't be a bad idea, but my arms are reduced in width as they go out from the shaft to the tip. With rollers the width ought to be constant so that there is enough support for the roller axle. 4- as I recall, the adjusters were air cooled VW. I know that the steel ends that I used on the aluminum tube pushrods came from there. 5- Cold rolled steel (1018) 6- Bronze that I had laying around the shop. Hope that this helps, but don't be afraid to ask if something else comes up! Herb
That broken ear should be no problem for any decent welding shop to repair. I had a Fenton header with about the same damage, and my local welder did a fine job building it up.
Michael, By the time I got back to the yard, the Saturn was gone- suffice to say that a little yard hopping will bring good results. I've got a pretty tight scehdule over the next couple of weeks (spring concert for the elementary school kiddies, Easter service for church, crossover for the scouts, etc), but if I can get back to the yard and find another Saturn to get the info for you, I will. Herb, I do remember you saying that you used VW adjusters the last time we talked.
Mac, all the roller rockerarms are intended to be continuously lubricated, how are you going to deal with this? I successfully used Torrington needle bearings on a 302 Ford but it was oiled from the pushrod. If you run an oil line to the rocker shaft then you have the situation where the oil will run down the side of the engine. If it was a Triumph that would be ok tho.Pat ps. is anybody interested in my xtra steel plate that fits on top of the head? 2/3 off and no recapable tires.
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