Hi all, I bought my 1941 Ford Pickup last October, and I'm finally getting into fixing things. I need help identifying my flattie, and more specifically my transmission. 1. My frame serial # is star 185954160 star, which checks out with 1941. 2. The engine I believe is a 1947, back of block near bell housing there are raised letter/number reading: A2374 (read April 23rd, 1947, 4th shift). 3. Also on the top of block on drivers side in the rear is stamped star 7 99A 144457 star. So, this is a 99A engine. 3. Trans number reads: BB184557476 (This one throughs me for a loop, but I'm thinking it's from 1938 based on vanpelts, but the "BB" is confusing me). Am I lucky, unlucky? Is 99A a good engine to have? I know I'm lucky that is runs and was a daily driver for quite some time. I'm about to open the manifold to check on some suspect valve problem, and most likely the heads next...need to know what size gasket set I need to get...std or big bore copper? My heads are 81A, with driver side reading 41 in center and passenger side 34 in center. Any help figuring out/confirming what I have would be greatly appreciated.
Took my manifold and passenger side head off tonight. Tomorrow the drivers sides is coming off and I will begin to attempt to investigate and address my suspected valve issue. And from the looks of it, everything else that might need to be fixed!! Here are some pics... Oh, and yes, I found the 59 on the bell housing of my block. I compared my block to vanpelts webpage pics, and it looks like a 46-48 99A. Any thoughts on the shape my block is in...I can't find any cracks, but I will have a closer look tomorrow, at both sides. What to do next?
I've got a little bit of sludge in the valley, and the amount of crud that was clogging up the heads and gaskets seem like a lot...any recommendations on what my next step should be?
For better and more complete pics try this link to my photobucket.com album: http://s1176.photobucket.com/albums/x331/drmusna02/
Cracks in photos will be very hard to pick out I touched up the photo you posted to show you where cracks are commomly found. Clean the head to block mating surface the best you can. You need to see shiny bare metal to actually see the cracks. Hot tank the block is the best way, but you can get by with a carefull pass with a wire wheel on a drill. Be carefull where the dust goes if you plan on bolting the heads back on if you don't see any cracks, but if you plan on rebuilding the engine anyway break it down to nothing and have it bathed to strip any remaining gaskets or dirt stuck to the block. Any way look very closely at the areas I mapped on your photo. lines in red are not critical to engine life lines found in the areas of white lines are terminal. Look all around the cylinders. When you see one you will recognise it for what it is. I still remember seeing my first cracked block. No visible cracks doesn't mean your safe just that the next step will be starting to cost you, have your block magnafluxed, it should be stripped and bathed for best results.
PS, thanks. Yeah, I figured I have some decisions to make. If I take the engine out, have everything bathed, and things look okay...can I just start putting it all back together myself? Or is this something an flathead rebuilder will have to do? I understand if there are issues and a machine chop has to get involved...but I would still like to reassemble myself. I plan on keeping the engine pretty much stock, but want to put some quality parts in it when I rebuild. This is a huge learning procces for me, and so far I'm having a good time!!
The 99 block was first produced in 1939 (first 9 for 1939)-(second 9 for 239 cu/in) and production was stopped in 1942 I believe. Blocks produced after 1942 were the 41A (first 4 for 1944)-(1 for 221 cu/in) The 59 series blocks were firrst produced in 1945 (first 5 for 1945)-(second 9 for 230 cu/in). I don't believe there is such a thing as a 99A-59 block. Jim
All 239's up through '48 were numbered in the 99 sequence, regardless of castingversion...same deal as 221's, which all got 18 series numbers
If you decide to tear it down,(I would),and BEFORE you start taking it apart, school yourself on the proper way to label and sort the parts. Items like rods and caps don't like to be mixed up. Neither do valve assemblies. Depending on bore size and roundness, you may get by with honing and new rings. Even stock I always like to use a good set of adjustable lifters for ease in setting valve lash. Ron Bishop's little book is a good reference among others. Have fun. It's not rocket science.
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