I wouldn't go less than 27, but you will have to experiment with your engine. 27 is like a starting point for the engine. It is detonation that causes most of the damage. FS has 29 built into it and they used to recommend (maybe still do) static 5 degrees BTDC for a total of 34, all in by 15 or 18 hundred can't remember. If the engine performs like it should you should see an easy 5 grand in low!
Well Bill a ride up to the Torrington area might be fun this Summer. I'll have to investigate the "cruise" scene up there to see what goes on. I put about 600 miles on the car this past Summer before pulling it apart. It ran well , the banger has a lot of torque and really wants to rev. I respect the old girls age, although she really has only has about 1000 miles on her at this point I cruise her pretty easy. I don't want to end up hurting her..... These motors are expensive to play with ! Pete
I have 2 94s on my banger with stock power valves and i seem to have a lag in the accelerator pump under light acceleration any ideas, thnks
I put adjustable main jets in mine. Once dialed in they are as smooth as silk. Also found out as was mentioned earlier these motors like all of their advance early. Pete
I have a FS distributor in mine and I run 10 deg initial and have no ping or knock. But I also run a 5 speed with a quick change rear end. The advance is all in by @ 1800 rpm. I don't have a tach on mine yet. When at the drags, I rev it until it stops pulling. No idea what rpm it is hitting. Around town I'm easier on it. I probably keep it under @ 3200. . .
Hey guys, recently bought a 29 Model a tudor. Car has been sitting for over 30 years. I have to drop the pan and clean out the oil mud plus the usual other cleaning before I start it. Need some advice: What points to use? stock or modern, original bottom plate Water pump? Leakless, rebuild original with original or teflon components Plans are to keep it as stock as possible, but down the road some banger engine upgrades and driveline Thanks, Tony
i have two 97 carbs on mine with a riley two port. They are speedway super 97 and they seem to have their own problems. The last time i drove it i used an 81 and one 9 super 7. The launch was greatly improved but the top speed was slower. I plan to play with it more this summer. Some one said to disconnect the accelerator rod on one carb. Someone else said to eliminate the power jet. I think there are some experts on this forum that can help.
I'm not a fan of using 94's in multiples. The issue is with the "power valve". The stock power valves are calibrated to operate at vacuum pressure that is based on one carb. When you use them in multiples the manifold vacuum changes and the power valves don't operate as designed. From what I remember. you need to change the power valve to a lower value to get them to operate correctly at lower vacuum. If your trying to run two carbs with the stock head and cam, you may never get it to run right. I'm running two 81's on my flathead set up and I think that is running too lean. I'm running a "B" cam and 7.6:1 head. I don't have any hesitation or lag. I just seem to loose power on the top end. I plan on going to two 48's soon. And I will swap out the cam at the same time. Jim Brierly runs 3 81's on a flathead B engine and it runs very well !!!! .
Thanks Daddyo! I agree with your statements on the 94's, plus the power valves can dry out and leak, causing a really rich mixture. My 81's have all stock jets, they run good and still get great fuel mileage, 24 - 25 on the road.
My answer to the power valve deal was to plug them up and not use them. Up the main 8 or 10 numbers to make up for what is no longer available through the power valve. But now you have a controllable fuel supply. Not really the right way, buy it works. And I was not trying for a economy car.
who maked the bell crank for the zepher manifolds i need one or better yet can someone sketch one up for me real quick so i can make one thanks tk
There is a picture on this page http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=4B&Category=Intake Manifold
Gents Did my 1928 model A have rubber pads on the pedals? I have round pedals, the only pads I can find are oval. Regards Brendan
You need to see a RHD Model A specialist, like Pearsons in Christchurch NZ , but they might be a bit shakey right now. http://www.pearsons.co.nz/right_hand_drive.htm
The accelerator pump rod operates the power valve. I don't use Strombergs but I'm pretty sure about how the power valve works unless speedway made some design changes. What is the throttle bore diameter in your 97's is it something like 1 1/16"? If so then you have a total of 3.54" of throttle bore. I 'm using 2 winfield BB's on my 2 port that give me right at 4' of throttle bore. So I wouldn't think you have too much carburetor for a 2 port if you have a decent cam and are around 7 to 1. Seems to me I have read of some people having problems with the Speedway carbs The accelerator pump is just that, it gives you an extra squirt of gas when you are accelerating. The power valve gives you a slightly richer mix at top RPM's it only operates when you have the pedal mashed all the way down. So it would be adding more gas under full throttle accelerating. Have you balanced your carbs? Sorry if I'm insulting you by discussing all of these basics but I have always found that you should return to zero then try working your way up. Check your linkage and take all of the slop out. Balance the carbs and check both ends Idle and top end.
Not much to report here..........havn't been able to drive the Roadster since 1st Jan.........but with a bit of luck it might get fired up this weekend, anyways this arrived today Volvo M40 4sp thats going in .... now i need an AA bellhousing.....
I've had good luck with modern upper and lower. It puts the points inside away from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This becomes even more important if you have a manifold heater. Stock A dizzys can get hard to control if you up the compression too much, but you can always change it out in the future when you get to hopping it up. I can't tell you which method is best for the water pump, but I can warn you not to buy an Omega leakless. I didn't get to far with mine before it started making shavings and huge amounts of end play. The "lifetime guarantee" is worthless. I'm looking for a better design this Spring myself. If you're going to pull the pan, you may as well check (plastigage) the mains and rods while you're down there. Be sure to look for cracks, bubbles and missing chunks while you're looking at the babbitt. It's not as bad as it sounds and it may save you some headaches later. Clean out the valley and set your valves too. Luke
Guys, I am replacing the engine in my '31 roadster soon with a with a good used motor. The motor has a weeping head gasket and being that I am a hot rodder I thought this would be a perfect opprotunity to change to a Hi-Compression head. I have seen alot of opinions, but what have you guys actually run on a stock/babbit bearing engine and what were the performance gains? Also, where do you find repro Hi-comp heads these days? Thanks for the information in adavance, Tex
Lots of good info on changing to juice brakes with the use of 39-41 backing plates and drums. But what I'm trying to find is info on putting in a juice cylinder in a model backing plate. If possible and you have info on or link please PM me. That would be VERY appreciated. Thanks telecustom.
Heres a guy in sweden thats has reworked the volvo m40 för model a, the rearend too. In swedish but you see the pics, very nice work.
Checking in with you guys. I'm the guy with the barn find dirt track car. Things are still at the machine shop, so questions yet, still reading all that I can on the banger. I'm still looking for a few parts.. Push rods and head gasket for a Riley head.. and other chasis stuff.
I'm using Riley head gaskets from Best Gasket. I order mine through Taylor Engine. I have both 2 and 4 port head gaskets now that were manufactured by Best. There is supposedly a difference between the Yapp 2 port and the original. Some thing to do with # 1 combustion chamber I think, I was told that they are not interchangeable. Taylor also supplied my pushrods. I can give you a length that will ball park it for you if I can find mine for the 4 port. C Yapp uses adjustable rocker arms. Not all of his parts are interchangeable with original Riley head with out modification. His rocker arm stands are taller requiring use of taller covers or modifying originals. Ask me how I know.
I saw some model "a" backing plates with hydraulic cylinders added in a junk yard in Wyoming. I bet somebody produced a kit for this conversion sometime. The cylinders were in the bottom part of the backing plate and they were about half the size of the regular Ford cylinders. You could post the question on Ford barn. Richard from v8 garage is on the Ford barn and he has been in the Ford brake business for a long time. His shop is in Ca. He sells all kinds of conversions and they can be placed back to mechanical easily. You do not have to drill holes in the frame-just bolt them on.
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