Remove 8" & 9" Ford Centersections Easily:

Here is a tip that will make removing 8" and 9" centersections easily the next time you need to remove one from your car. I perform this small modification on any centersection that I build, sell or work on. This mod will also work on 8 3/4 Mopar, as well as '55-'64 Chevy, Pontiac, Olds or any other rear end that uses a drop out centersection:

You first need to mark a spot between the two middle vertical holes on the case on each side of the centersection:





You now need to center punch the mark in preparation for drilling:



You can now drill a 5/16" hole on each side. De-burr the hole on each side of the case:



Tap the hole with a 3/8-16 tap:



The next time you need to pull the centersection, after removing the retaining nuts, thread a 1 1/4" long x 3/8-16 bolt into each of the holes you tappped. The bolt threading into the centersection case will evenly pull it away from the rear end housing. No more screwdrivers, pry bars or foul language. The holes will not weaken the case in any way, and they will not leak oil:

 

good tech!

 

nice tech!

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

good stuff, thanks!

 

simple and effective

 

you just changed my life

 

Neat.

I found another way to do it when I worked at the junkyard...we'd save the chunk from cars we were crushing. I just whacked each stud into the housing with a bfh, then the chunk would fall out. Do NOT do this.....

 

Neat trick for the racing guys who are always messing around with their rear end ratios. I know several dirt track guys who have track specific pumpkins.

 

My brother and I run two Legends cars at three different tracks, so changing gears is always on our list of things to do. The Toyota rear ends have drop out centers like a 9", so this modification is a great help.

 

I will call Strange today and see if this effects my warranty. HA HA just a joke! But I will do it for sure, good tech tip, thanks for sharing.

 

Thanks for that. I think I'll put short studs with nuts in the new holes for esthetics and cleanliness.

 

HAHAHAAAAA! That's awesome! Good tech too.

 

That's a smart idea.

 

Nice one Tom.

I had a pal get his stuck the other day. He learned the hard way that using silicone instead of a gasket is like gluing the chunk into the housing.

I take about six box cutter blades (the double ended trapezoid shaped blades) and drive them in between the housing and the chunk (tiny hammer) to create enough gap for a real prybar. The good part is that they also cut the silicone and loosen the grip is has on things. It works even better when there is a paper gasket in use.

Moral of the story: use a gasket and Tom's trick

 

We still laugh about our buddy changing the thirdmember in our race car because he layed under it and took it out above his head even though he forgot to drain it first.

 

If you spray both sides of a new gasket twice with WD40, you can re-use the gasket several times. This goes for pan or carb gaskets as well.

 

Very good idea. I just did this on the drums of my 52 Ford Customline as I found out that my baby girls ford escort brake drums had drilled and threaded holes to remove the seized drums from the hubs.

It works great for brake drums too!

 

if you have an axle that wont come out ...and you dont have a slide hammer on hand. bolt about 5 feet of chain to a stud ....then bolt something heavey on the other end..give it the old toss across the shop...and theres your axle on the ground

 

Neat trick man! I'll have to do that when I build my 9"

 

Cool Deal!

 

The Strange Ultra Center that I have in my nostalgia top fuel ride came with that exact modification when I purchased it.

Roo

 

I have an easy method for removing an axle. Take a pry bar and place the end of it between the end of the housing and the axle flange. Begin putting pressure on the bar to pry the axle out AND hit the end of the axle with a hammer while you are applying the pressure. The axle will break loose from the chunk and come right out.

 

Oh yea, I'm gonna use this one!!!

 

In the Navy (late 70's) we used Crisco from the galley on all the gaskets for the support equipment engines and drivetrain, I use it still, works great, PAM works good too!

 

Having crewed on go fast Drag Race Comp Eliminator Cars for years, I've pulled lots of 9" drop out units. To ease our pains, we would ream out the holes slightly, and chamfer both inner and outer holes. We had 4 different drop outs to chose from and often times would have to make a differential change between rounds. Under 30 minutes was not uncommon.

 

i recently did it the hard way, laying on my back under my truck with the 100lb 'pig' precariously balanced with bungies holding it on a floor jack trying to line up the bolt holes to get a bolt started. . it was easily a 200 curse job....

but wouldn't it be easier to drill the holes before you remove the pig?

 

Good idea. I wish I had known that 40 years ago.

I still worry them out but never more.

Thanks

 

Then you risk drilling into/through the axle housing, which you don't want to do, because you need something for the 3/8 bolt to push against.

 

thanks for the tip......