Ozzie Update,,, Help !!!

Hi Folks,
Yes the flathead will stay here. My builder got all hot for the flathead to go in my Model T and have the soooped up 327 and TH350 get put in the daily driver, But I will hold him off from doing that since I want to keep the shoebox like a shoebox and the Heavily Modified Model T.....well like a heavily modified model T. SO the Flathead stays in the 50.

Flathead Ernie, Thanks for the words on the flathead. Is the 8RT head thing just something that in the future I will be able to swap out for other heads? finned, 8BA's, etc..?


Also Soebox72. I would absolutely take you up on that correct fan assembly. Let me post a bunch more pictures on this one and you can take a look and see if you have what i need.
I have already contacted several folks from Ebay, shoeboxfords.com and here about front and rear bumpers for this puppy, I need to get bumpers on this baby, really don't like the smoothed out look and with drivers here, it's a must, Just look at any older corvette's nose and you'll see how anything without a good front bumper that's parked on the street get's nicked..... I digress, here are some more pics..

In the pics you'll see where I had to take the Fan pulley set up, and re-slot the shaft in order for the pinch bolts to hold it closer to the engine, so my belt would stay on the pulley and be more aligned for correct operation, then had to slot each side of the shaft which sticks out of the back, so it would not hit the top of the engine.

When the Radiator was repaired, the shop only repaired what was wrong, and they did a great job there, who was to think the other side of the radiator was going to seperate on me, so I went to a Flying J ( truckers paradise) and got a whole bunch of tie wraps, then when nice and tight, I wrapped bailing wire and held that together. headlight eyelid courtesy of automotice gray duct tape, for the life of me I could not get it back on when I changed over the front bulbs to 12 volt at Walmart. so figuring these were not pointing anywhere decent for oncoming traffic, I taper it to perform like the other one. When the radiator split the makeshift repair on the overflow tube came apart and made it all look worse than it really was.. Notice how this radiators top tank was welded on there sometime in the past offset the WRONG way. So in short.... Ozzie still needs a radiator, something with good top and bottom tanks, where I can have it recored right, down here and replace this Flying J brand one....Ozzie

PS DOES ANYONE HAVE THE CORRECT CHUCK/DIFF FROM A 54 WITH THE O-MATIC TRANSMISSION WITH THE 3.31 GEARS I COULD BUY?/SWAP OUT???

 

Ozzie,

The 8rt heads you have came off of a truck and have larger combustion chambers than 8BA of EAB heads (Ford) which lowers your compression ratio. All Ford truck pumps have the foot mounting parallel to the ground and from your pic's your mounting feet are angled so your pumps are not truck pumps. See this link for pic's of the various pumps (yours are prolly the lower right pic style.) I believe the '49 and up pumps all used the thin belts on the Ford cars. The Mercs and trucks used wide belts in '49 and narrow in '50 and up. '49 Mrec pumps also had the foot parallel to the ground like the trucks. '50 and up Merc pumps were like the Ford. Looks like who ever put that motor together used the truck fan assby and heads with the Ford water pumps.

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_other-pics/Flathead_37-53waterpumptypes.jpg

Any later ('49 and up heads will fit your motor as well as aftermarket heads (aluminum)) with bolts and 5/8" acorn covers. Bench flow tests indicate that the EAB ('52/'53 Ford) heads flow the best. The other casting holes may have been used for some marine applications but were not used on the standard cars or trucks.

What pressure rating is your radiator cap? You prolly don't want to exceed a 7# cap.

 

Ozzie - those spaces on the sides of the timing cover are normal - you have the correct pumps. Passenger car pumps used a unique mount, different than the ones on all other flathead pumps, so unless you completely re-engineer your engine mounts, you're stuck using those castings. Any pulley, however, can be pressed on - I'd stick with stock - they do work well when you have the right fan!

Yes, you can change out your heads for any other heads. It's best to stick with '49 & up 8BA-style heads (like yours) either EAB (best stock head) or aftermarket aluminum with the water necks up front. You can put the earlier heads on, but there's a few extra things to do & it's not quite one-for-one swap.

An 8" Ford rear out of many early 70s cars will work well & you can get nearly any ratio you want for them. But it would be cool if you could find one from behind an automatic & stay original.

That's a nice looking car, btw.

PS - Did you get those word docs I sent?

 

Hello folks, well, The car made it to the show, still heating up but hopefully a newer radiator will take care of that. Got the new rims and some cool used tires, put 195/75/15 in the front and 205/75/15 in the back. Definitely need to upgrade the brake set up to get the E brakes to work. Got a new set of cables arriving tomorrow. New Thermostat housings and gaskets and hoses coming tomorrow, aswell as trying to get the vent windows fixed. Will post pics of it as it goes along.
The show was horrible, there were 18 total cars in the Hot Rod, Muscle Car, Rat Rod and Antique categories put together, today there were 10!. More than 50 of the registered Hot Rods and antiques didn't show up.

Here my 50 with it's new shoes...and new peep mirrors.
Ozzie

 

Looking good!

 

Ernie,
Now I seem to have an idea that replacing the waterpumps with correct ones may give me the correct pulley alignment I need to use one belt in the diamond pattern, and then remove the fan and pulley all together and run a Spall fan on their. With the newer radiator that's not split, I may be able to keep this thing cool down here in the 90 degree with 90% humidity south!
This week will bring beautifying to the engine and the car. Got an unbelievably cheap quote from an older Glass guy who has a thing for older cars, ( he's from Cuba and fell fond of mine when he saw it this morning) and will be replacing the 4 vent windows and the rear drivers side roll down window, along with new seals and guides in the rear for a super low price compared to what I was quoted everywhere else. The work on the glass will start on Fridat and end on Saturday when he brings back the parts cut to install. I'll start the re-wiring process in the front and the raer and leave the under dash parts for a little later on right now.
The taller tires seem to be better right now. Looking to test it on the highway this weekend.

 

Ozzie - Send me an email

 

Its been a long time since the drama of the shoebox trip down to Miami from Huntsville. The flathead finally gave up with 2 cylinders dropping their. 85lb pressure down to under 35. So instead of driving it till it blewup. I drove it in the carport and pieced out the engine. The only financially viable option was a sbc for everyday reliability. The Chief (hamb name) had just upgraded his 50 from a '87 305sbc to a pontiac 400 block. So his old 305 has been stripped, painted and prepped, mated to a th350 and should be dropped into the shoebox in the next week. The 50 will live on again!!
I'll update pics in a day.

 

Flathead lasted another four years...not bad.
Congrats on finding a transplant.
Thanks for the update.

 

Some pics

 

Looks like you should be able to run with the big dogs now. I like the early style intake on it too.

 

Nice project

 

The car is done, tomorrow should see the hood get put back on and this friday it's first show with the newer engine in it. A HUGE Thanks to CaseyRod and The Chief for their big big help and effort on this one. Casey called me today while test driving the car to say how well it was doing!, Looking forward to driving it again!
Ozzie

Update, Drove it, and WOW, it's really booking now!!, The lighter SBC has helped the suspension and the turning, What a difference to drive. idles nicely at 600, spins the tires if need be and the passing gear works perfect!

 

just needs ballast resister.