MII suspension on CE crossmember

I'm working on a '48 Chevy Fleetline that I want to build as cruiser, not for sport driving or anything like that. I've already pulled the body from the frame and stripped and repainted the frame. I wanted to update the suspension so I looked around for MII crossmember options. I chose the Chassis Engineering due to the same mounting method as the original installation (i.e. Bolt on). Now I'm up to the point where it's time to complete the front suspension. I have been looking at the Speedway Motors MII suspension kit with the air ride, and I wanted to get your opinions. I have already read about SM's reputation regarding customer service. I am wanting opinions and facts; first, will the SM MII kit fit the CE crossmember? Are there better options for installing air suspension on the MII crossmember?

Thanks
-J

 

I'm not clear on which speedway kit you're lookin' at... can you post a link?

I used the CE crossmember on my '51- with heidts front end stuff. No bags though

 

This is the kit I'm considering using.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Air-Ride-IFS-w-Stock-Control-Arms,22799.html

 

thats a lot of $$ for stamped steel arms

 

I understand that SM is wanting a lot of money for their kit, and that's one of the reasons I'm asking for opinions. If there is a better value available, then I'm willing to hear other options.

 

I have stock arms, springs, knuckles, etc on the bolt in C.E. crossmember on my '48 ford. I figured there was no reason to pay the big money for tubular arms that no one would ever be able to see.

I am not running air ride.

I scrounged most of the parts from other peoples cast offs, and got some things new (springs, shocks) I kept the lower strut rod arms, and the car rides like a dream.

 

I ordered my CE mustang II and control arms and brakes ,etc.. from JPL Street Rods. Really good prices and good customer service. The control arms I got from them were TCI.

 

I'm with you, miller. If the system works well with the strut rods, then I don't see a good reason to change it. The tubular a-arm kits seem to be a solution in search of a problem, especially on a fat-fender car.

ratrodjunkie, do you have any contact information for JPL streetrods? All I could find was an evilbay store and a nut shop in PA. Thanks in advance.

 

The ebay store has their phone number on it. You can call and talk to them directly and buy stuff without going thru ebay.

 

I just placed a HUGE order of C.E. stuff from JPL, complete front end, sway bars , rear springs and motor&trans mount. I payed with a cashiers check so they didn't get whacked a 3 or 4% form the credit card company. I saved over $400. from the C.E. catalog prices and FREE shipping. Can't beat that. Todd

 

I was under the impression that - the CE crossmember needs tubular full control arms- the stamped stock ones won't work with the CE crossmember.

I also ordered mine from JPL- I got heidts parts with it Great service from them, actually.

 

Ah I stand corrected. The '49-'54 kit uses the wide tubular lower arms... other kits can use the stamped factorystyle arms.

 

I used the ce crossmember also on my 48 chevy with the longer jw garage tubular a arms. The ce sway bars don't fit without some work, I would eliminate the front sway bar as I ran for awhile without it when trying to get something working. The sway bar comes with instructions that state it may not work. The car cornered just the same without it, so that will save you some money. I feel the a arms work easier without the strut rod and the old original style a arms plus its a cleaner looking setup. JW garage brake pads are crap so buy new wagners right off, the other ones make a dirty mess all the time. I also used ce rear suspension kit, ce used dodge dakota truck springs and my 48 rides like a truck even with the tuner spring removed. A friend used weedetr's kit and his car rides like a new car, I love it. I've got to get rid of my springs just because of the bumps in the road. Also remember this, even with the longer a arms, if you want to run narrow tires, say 5 or 6 inch tread width, your wheels will be inwards of a couple of inches from the fender edge. So I had to get rims with very little back spacing so the front wheels aligned up with the rear wheels to look good. If you want to know anything else, pm me. I ended up turning the a arm adjusting screw all the way down to get fender clearance on bumpy turns too.

 

I've used the m2 set up from Heidts using bags. The installation instructions were very clear, but take your time measuring and measuring.....they provided great tech support as well. They are probably not the cheapest around but I do like the peace of mind aspect. Let me know if I can help you any further. Eric/farmer12

 

What rotors do you guy's run. CE is a fine unit but they have problems with lower control arm scraping on rotor when using a stamped control arm. Their answer is to beat on the control arm to gain clearance. Guess the answer is Heigts tube arms that use the strut rod.Another $299.

 

Thanks for the replys, fellas.

I've been convinced to go away from the sotrut rods and go with the a-arms top and bottom. I'd rather spend a little more now and build it right once than spend more money later to build it the way it should have been done from the outset. It looks like JPL is also the way to go, based on prices and reputation. Thanks...and I'll have to take pics of the install.