The infloor heating works great but ceiling fans are needed to keep the heat down so don't forget to wire them in. Receptacles in the ceiling for power door openers as well. Insulated doors as well but this is Canada and it is somewhat cold.
you can never have enough room... here's mine, total over 4,000 sq. ft. and i'm running out of room after just 4 years....
A couple more suggestions: Concrete floor - if your thinking of a 2 post lift the floor needs to be at least 8(10 is better) inches thick in the lift area. A 4 poster is ok at 6 inches. Regardless of the thickness make sure you get slits cut so no more that 48 sq ft. are in each section. Prevents stress cracks. Whatever size garage your thinking of 2, 3 or 4 Make it wider and longer. 4 or 5 feet in length lets you walk around the car and 6-8 feet wider leaves room for a work bench and storage. My 36 coupe stands 5 and half feet high and at 6 foot myself, make sure the ceiling is at least 12 feet high (13 or 14 if you ever expect to lift a big SUV). Unless you like engine jacks - put an I-beam somewhere in the ceiling of one of the bays to pull motors and lift bodies off frames. Urinals and showers are OK but make sure you at least have a slop sink. Doubles as a urinal it your tall enough. Heat and A/C are nice but at least one big exhaust fan so you can blow all the crap out to your neighbors yard.
3/4 treated plywood the first 4 foot around the walls to stop damage and barn steel the rest (powerwash the walls to clean) D rings in the floor to pull on 120v winch to pull in cars that dont run build in surround sound 200 to 250 amp service
might consider a "divorce fund"! get it to much like "home" their is real chance you could end up living in the garage.
urinal, no urinal.....blah blah blah! Go to this site and close this thread! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
I built a 2000 sq. foot garage,{As stated before,They never are big enough} I checked out many friends garages prior to building.One had valted ceilings which let him to have a loft above 8' at the end of his garage. This was a great idea as it added a lot of storage room plus it added height to the inside for a lift. I built it with 12' walls and vaulted ceings.It is 15' 6" at the center inside. I added a half bath and added a large kitchen sink in the the half bath.All the air lines were installed in the walls and stubbed an air line out side for my tire changer,I installed a 200 amp box, Double gang recepts were added T/O at 48" . 220 was added at each gargage door plus 2 more for my 12,000 lb. lift and compressor.I also wired it for cable TV,Computer and phone lines.I added 48"by 12" windows 8' high for some light and for security.I installed 2 lofts, one at each end above the 7' high garage doors. added fold down ladders for access. I painted the floors light gray, I wish that I did not do that as I have to mop the floors as it shows the dirt.I have a roll around swamp cooler with its own water supply for some cooling in the summer.
I am finishing up my shop this year. A few thoughts from my build. My walls are 10 foot but the bathroom has 7 foot walls and ceiling. This creates storage over the bathroom. The kitchenette shares a wall with the bathroom which keeps plumbing all together. I put a vaulted ceiling in one bay for the lift, The garage door track goes up the vault not straight out like normal. Floor drains are nice. 10 or 12 foot wide and taller garage doors allow larger vehicles or trailers in (could roll out lift also). Also makes it nice if you inherit a school bus. Lines in - utilities, phone, computer, cablevision. I put in 1X6 treated baseboards then plywood on top of that - won't wick with moisture. Make sure your concrete floot is above grade so gully washers don't flood you out. Outlets, lighting, water and air available outside also. Outlets high for clocks and signs. Ceiling fans and controls will keep the heat down and circulated. Just a few thoughts, hope it helps
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